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Jonnylightening

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So im ka leaning away from the whole Hyd. Cam deal. Ive been looking for a comparable solid to my current hyd. The cam i have now works great in my car but I kinda want a solid. Whats your opinions on comparing the two?

(Current)
Summit - 1789
Basic Operating RPM Range:1,500-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:216
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:216
Duration at 050 inch Lift:216 int./216 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:272
Advertised Exhaust Duration:272
Advertised Duration:272 int./272 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.454 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.454 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.454 int./0.454 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):110


(Comparable)
Comp Magnum - 20-246-4
Basic Operating RPM Range:1,800-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:224
Duration at 050 inch Lift:224 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:270
Advertised Exhaust Duration:270
Advertised Duration:270 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.468 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.468 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.468 int./0.468 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):110
 
What are you going to use the car for, street, racing, combination? If you are happy with the hydraulic, why the urge to go to solid? With the hydraulic, it's pretty much set it & forget it. With the solid, you will occasionally have to pull the valve covers & check your setting before you suddenly are in BFE & you hear the dreaded TICK, TICK. TICK & you have no tools & it's raining cats & dogs as a worse case scenario. LOL
 
why go from one old chevy cam to a new chevy cam
start over with all the details
where do you need more power
 
What are you going to use the car for, street, racing, combination? If you are happy with the hydraulic, why the urge to go to solid? With the hydraulic, it's pretty much set it & forget it. With the solid, you will occasionally have to pull the valve covers & check your setting before you suddenly are in BFE & you hear the dreaded TICK, TICK. TICK & you have no tools & it's raining cats & dogs as a worse case scenario. LOL
Mainly street and alittle strip use. The reason i want to make the switch is because this past weekend one of my lifters collapsed. Same happend to my brother in his Cordoba but his happend during break in. I dont mind adjusting valves, I had to on my old pulling truck and my old 12V cummins.
 
If that is the case, I'd say go for it. The solid cam is just a "little bit" stouter than your hydraulic but I don't think you will notice the difference. JMHO
 
(1977 318)
QFT 750 Slayer
Weiand Stealth (Dual Plane)
Summit 1789 cam
Hughes 1110 valve springs
EQ magnum heads
PRW roller tip rockers
Summit long tube headers
Stock rotating assembly
904 Auto
2500 stall converter
8.75 rear with spool and 3.91 gears
 
good and your chassis and driving details
how abut grinders that have mopar solids and know mopar
PM Dart19666 at Crower
Racer Brown
Engle
PM Dart19666 at Crower
Bullet
...
 
He won’t need that specific.904 lobe for a cruiser light strip set up. It’ll be easier on the springs and live a billion miles.

Though IMO I’d use the Lunati grind of similar specs before a Comp stick.
 
.904 has nothing to do with easier on springs or a million miles
a .904 profile can be easier on the parts and last longer
does lunati have anything for daily drivers?
their on line catalogue is not friendly
 
But using a aggressive design does & yes they do. There products are listed vertical in size order, on the horizontal its package deals, cam & lifters, cam lifters springs, etc...
 
Heres the specs on my current springs
Hug 1110

VALVE SPRING SINGLE W/ DAMPER
120# @ 1.660" INSTALLED 310# @ .550" LIFT
  • Installed Height/Pressure: 1.660"--120#
  • Pressure @ .450" lift: 280#
  • Pressure @ .500" lift: 300#
  • Pressure @ .550" lift: 310# <-see note below
  • Coil Bind: .620" lift
  • Outer Spring ID/OD: 1.033"/1.440"
  • Type of Spring:Single w/ damper
 
Would these be ok to use on say the Comp XE268S cam? I seen alot of guys used this style cam on D Dart 273 clones

Basic Operating RPM Range:2,000-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:230
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:236
Duration at 050 inch Lift:230 int./236 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:268
Advertised Exhaust Duration:274
Advertised Duration:268 int./274 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.488 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.501 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.488 int./0.501 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):110
Im not looking to spend a bunch on cam, lifters, and springs. Worse case ill just get new lifters for my current one. Im just trying to build a fun street toy for this year. Next year im planning on building hot teen.
 
Get the Lunati Equivalent and be ahead of the game.
 
I didnt see one listed on theyre site. All the ones listed that I seen are HIGH lift. Ive ran Lunati several times on few of my engines in the past so im not at all against them
(1977 318)
QFT 750 Slayer
Weiand Stealth (Dual Plane)
Summit 1789 cam
Hughes 1110 valve springs
EQ magnum heads
PRW roller tip rockers
Summit long tube headers
Stock rotating assembly
904 Auto
2500 stall converter
8.75 rear with spool and 3.91 gears

Choose one ....

966E750C-9C42-4BDB-B7B9-F6343C79C77E.jpeg
50433D8E-AAB3-449E-B294-9F936FFB9B36.jpeg
 
Rumble...just asking...would you put that straight in, or advance it some?
 
I'd bump the cylinder pressure up you can run a hair more cam.

Pull the heads, port them, mill them .045 and use a cheaper 8553 gasket that's about .046 compressed and you end up about 5 cc less then stock...say a #675 head is 68cc, so in effect 63.7 ish cc now n so
What is it,.0054 per cc on a small open and .0048 per cc on a big open chamber?

Do the math, search it. You want torque.
 
230/236/110 is a big jump from 216/216/110, that looks like 3 sizes.
That will move your peak power upwards from about 4700 to about 5300, or some 600 rpm......... at the expense of losing some low-speed torque in your short stroke 318.
The 3.91s will help with that, but you may find the 2500TC a lil lazy off the line.
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I have a 230/237/110 in my 367 cuber with a 4-speed. My starter gear is 3.09x3.55=10.96. My cylinder pressure is a tic under 180. For a streeter, I wouldn't go any bigger.
Your teener/904 has a starter of 2.45x3.91=9.58, about 13% less, but you have the Convertor, so that will be close to a wash.
The difference will be in the cylinder pressure.
For your stated use;
Mainly street and a little strip use.
Im not looking to spend a bunch on cam, lifters, and springs. Worse case ill just get new lifters for my current one. Im just trying to build a fun street toy for this year. Next year im planning on building hot teen.
forget 8/1 Scr. Forget 9/1 Scr; yur gonna need some pressure.
I was much happier when I had a 223/230/110 cam, also running 180ish. With this I ran 2.66x3.23=8.59 with no complaints.
Jus trying to help.
In your case I think I would just swap to anti-pump ups and run them at a minimum preload. You will have to run adjustable valve gear and new length pushrods. I run my 367 a lil clacky, on the hydraulic Hughes HE3037AL cam.Makes great torque. Bindatway since 2005ish.
_________________________
Edit;
This;
Your teener/904 has a starter of 2.45x3.91=9.58, about 13% less, but you have the Convertor, so that will be close to a wash.
might require a bit of an explanation.
The TC has an internal Torque Multiplying function; that is to say, it multiplies the incoming torque to a new higher number when it leaves. The amount is often expressed as a multiplier, like 1.05 or 1.1 or 1.8 etc. You can apply this multiplier to your crank output, or if you don't know it, then you can apply it directly as if it was another transmission gear.
The thing is this; the ratio is highest at zero mph, and decreases automatically as the vehicle builds speed. I have read/heard of ratios as high as 1.8@ zero mph. And guys often report numbers still at 1.08 at 100 or so mph .
In your case then, at zero mph, you might expect 2.45 x3.91 x1.8=17.24 instantaneous ratio, rapidly declining to something like 2.45 x3.91 x1.2=11.5 sustained in first gear. I'm not preaching absolutes, just insight into why autos usually blast off harder.
Thus your effective starter gear of 11.5 or better is very similar to my 10.97, less than 5% difference. Which I call; "close to a wash".
And besides;on the street, there is such a thing as too much starter gear, as you can get into second gear too early with it, leaving you with nothing to downshift into at 35 mph.The math on that with 3.91s is ; 35=4750 in first, and 2810 in second. As you can see; downshifting into first gear gives you only about a few milliseconds to shift-rpm, but at 2800 in second, your teener might labor a ways until it gets back up on the cam.
So it depends on your driving requirements.
A bigger cam will extend your first gear, but when you shift into second, the engine is stuck again, laboring up the power curve, until it gets back on the cam.
This happens because of the rather large 1-2 ratio split in the 904/727.You can't change that split of 1.45/2.45=59%; but you can work with it.
A higher stall will keep you out of the soft zone.
More pressure will make the soft zone less soft.
A wider LSA will bring down the peak power, and extend the power a lil lower, so you won't feel the softness as bad; it's still there just less noticeable.
The best plan is a trans with a closer 1-2 split; but Mopar doesn't have one:(, at least not among the autos.
If you think about it; your TC is acting like as if it was another automatically adjusting gear,similar to a CVT. The ratio-split is about 1.1/1.8=.61 or 61% which is very similar to your 1-2 split of 59%. That effectively adds a "bull- low: to your A904, or any trans actually............ which makes it perform like a 4 speed, but with only two pulls on the shifter.
So in the big picture; you could think of these ratios as;
(4.41 diminishing to 2.94)-1.45-1.00 If you add in the TM of the TC, it might look like this;
4.41>2.94-1.67-1.1 in Drive. If you also had a lock-up, then
4.41>2.94-1.67-1.1-1.00 .....5 gears, with a short 10% into fifth. I call it 4.5..
If you think about this sumore...
and if you needed less than 3270 cruise rpm at zeroslip, which could be 200/300 more with up to 10% slip; then;
You might consider say 3.23s with an A999 loc-up, to cruise 65=2700
Your starter drops from 3.91x2.45x1.8= 17.24,
to 3.23x2.74(in the A999)x1.8=15.93 a loss of 8%
If you needed to, you could easily make that up with; a couple of hundred more rpm in the stall, more cylinder pressure,shorter ramps on that cam, I tighter LSA, or a shorter-period cam. The penalty for running the A999, is the splits are slightly wider than the 904/727, but at your power level, this is not a very big issue.
Just for comparison's sake; here are the A999 numbers with 3.23s, compared to my Commando,with 3.55s . Check out the splits;
15.93>9.49-5.39-3.55-3.23,...........splits of; .60-.58-.66-.91
-10.97-6.82-4.97-3.88-2.76(GVod); splits of; .62-.73-.78-.71 ; I split 3rd then go to 4-od.

Why is this important?
Cuz your tires don't care how much power your engine has. They only care about how much is coming out the axles. And your combo cares about staying on the cam, to maximize the average power over time,or distance.
 
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