I took a big dump today and thought about ts thread.
Dusterguy wrote
Go to your car, take your finger and put it in exhaust pipe. After that look at it and see it turned black. Yes its carbon. Yes it's normal even in engine that is perfectly in good shape.
My cam shaft is large enough that i had to drill 3/32 hole in each butterfly, so that the fuel mixture screws would respond when i adjusted them.
I can go out there Right Now and there will be no black soot in the tail pipe, Light gray!
Dusterguy wrote
Go to your car, take your finger and put it in exhaust pipe. After that look at it and see it turned black. Yes its carbon. Yes it's normal even in engine that is perfectly in good shape.
My cam shaft is large enough that i had to drill 3/32 hole in each butterfly, so that the fuel mixture screws would respond when i adjusted them.
I can go out there Right Now and there will be no black soot in the tail pipe, Light gray!
Thanks for your valuable post. You have wrote 38000 post here in fabo, Im sure 85% of them are one liners that doest have any value or help anyone. Talk less and say more, if you know what I mean.I took a big dump today and thought about ts thread.
I have also drilled my plates to get fuel screws working. Every car that I have has black carbon in exhaust pipe end. That gray thing is also carbon I assume.Dusterguy wrote
Go to your car, take your finger and put it in exhaust pipe. After that look at it and see it turned black. Yes its carbon. Yes it's normal even in engine that is perfectly in good shape.
My cam shaft is large enough that i had to drill 3/32 hole in each butterfly, so that the fuel mixture screws would respond when i adjusted them.
I can go out there Right Now and there will be no black soot in the tail pipe, Light gray!
Go to your car, take your finger and put it in exhaust pipe. After that look at it and see it turned black...
Thanks for your valuable post. You have wrote 38000 post here in fabo, Im sure 85% of them are one liners that doest have any value or help anyone. Talk less and say more, if you know what I mean.
I know and I have said that already. They suck. Why I made this was because I needed maximum ground clearange because my car is lowered and I want it keep it that way, like I said earlier. I dont know if they produce more hp than cast manifold, but at least I hope so.Those headers are terrible. Like a bad mix of header and exhaust manifold. Except using a smaller pipe than exhaust manifolds can! Get real full length headers. 2.5 inch exhaust.
Oh and new plugs. That aren't black.
You can use any part you like, but if your wiener is larger than exhaust pipe then you might not get a good sample.Do we have to stick a finger in the exhaust pipe, or can we use other parts of our body???
I know and I have said that already. They suck. Why I made this was because I needed maximum ground clearange because my car is lowered and I want it keep it that way, like I said earlier. I dont know if they produce more hp than cast manifold, but at least I hope so.
I put stiffer spring to distributor. I made new one today that is stiffer and it should be stiff enough to give full advance at 2200-2400. Also I have made compression test, but only for one cylinder. If I have free time on weekend then I do test to all cylinders.Have any changes been made to the current set-up since this thread started?
I put stiffer spring to distributor. I made new one today that is stiffer and it should be stiff enough to give full advance at 2200-2400. Also I have made compression test, but only for one cylinder. If I have free time on weekend then I do test to all cylinders.
Bigger update for parts isn coming soon. Maybe not till next winter when car sits in garage.
Said on the 23rd he would do compression test the 24th and post results.
Today is the 28th.
There's your progress! To much arguing and not enough working!
They suck/are bad for performance. They dont suck for "scavenging way". I agree these should be full lenght to work.They don't. Headers are really only worth it if they are full length. Mid/short length headers generally show little to no increase over stock manifold setups. And they way yours are designed are almost worse.
As for ground clearance I wouldn't worry. The front of my car is lowered too. Low enough that if I turn a corner too fast with a friend in the car. You can hear the tire rub the fender. And I still haven't hit anything with my full length under steering headers. That said. If you're worried about clearance. Dougs or tti are your best bet. They tuck up under the steering better. And won't be more than a 1/2 lower than the transmission pan from what I hear.
You havent read all my post in this tread. I got earlier full advance about 1600 rpm. Thats too soon.Is that the direction that you want to go in??
Stiffer spring makes it advance slower...
Lighter spring makes it advance faster...
You must be kicking the advance in too fast to cure it with a stiffer spring...
Usually we want to kick it in faster and use a lighter spring...
You havent read all my post in this tread.
Its frustrating to tell same things many times.Yeah, I ain't goin back 14 pages...
Though the shorty isn't as good as a long tube header, they are a major step up from the cast iron manifold. If no one has already posted this, here it is, a dyno test with stock cast iron, shorties and full length.They don't. Headers are really only worth it if they are full length. Mid/short length headers generally show little to no increase over stock manifold setups. And they way yours are designed are almost worse.
As for ground clearance I wouldn't worry. The front of my car is lowered too. Low enough that if I turn a corner too fast with a friend in the car. You can hear the tire rub the fender. And I still haven't hit anything with my full length under steering headers. That said. If you're worried about clearance. Dougs or tti are your best bet. They tuck up under the steering better. And won't be more than a 1/2 lower than the transmission pan from what I hear.