distributer help

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Nappa82

Nappa82

Well-Known Member
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Feb 18, 2012
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Location
united states
Specs: 225 slant 6 1971 demon

Took the car into a friend to find out why the engine rode so rough. He fixed the issue but I told him I wanted to do the work on the car so he set the idle speed really high so i could drive it home and then take out the distributer and set the points and then place it back in.

I set the points and place the engine on TDC. I placed the distributer roter pointed at the #1socket on the dist cap. Did I do that correct or does it need to point somewhere else?

I did try to start the car after putting it all back together and it almost/ wanted to start but it just kinda putters out when you turn the key and it gave 2 putts before dieing.... Id call my friend but hes at the track today haha.
 
I set the points and place the engine on TDC.
Click to expand...

If you are referring to #1 cylinder, that is correct as long as you have it on the compression stroke.
 
Ah actually i pointed the roter towards the #1 tower on the cap.. like this.

IMG_00081.jpg


So I should be pointed at the actual cylinder and not the caps #1 plug? Sorry just want to make sure :p :newb:

EDIT: Don't mind the position its all lose atm.
 
sounds correct, you may need to adjust the timing to abit to get it started before you put a timing light on it, to adjust the timing just turn the distributor with the hold down bolt sightly loose (don't take the distributor back out)

when cleaning the points where they ever adjusted? typically If I remember correctly the point gap should be 1/2 of the plug gap which is about 0.017-0.023"

did you set point gap with the reluctor at its highest point?
 
Nappa82 said:
Ah actually i pointed the roter towards the #1 tower on the cap.. like this.

IMG_00081.jpg


So I should be pointed at the actual cylinder and not the caps #1 plug? Sorry just want to make sure :p :newb:

EDIT: Don't mind the position its all lose atm.
Click to expand...

my haynes manual shows the rotor to be facing the way you have it
 
66plyValiant said:
sounds correct, you may need to adjust the timing to abit to get it started before you put a timing light on it, to adjust the timing just turn the distributor with the hold down bolt sightly loose (don't take the distributor back out)

when cleaning the points where they ever adjusted? typically If I remember correctly the point gap should be 1/2 of the plug gap which is about 0.017-0.023"

did you set point gap with the reluctor at its highest point?
Click to expand...

Yup I set it to .020. I had turned the dist with the hold down bolt directly in the center. I will move it a bit to the left and see what happens since it wanted to start but just couldnt quite make it.
 
Nappa82 said:
Ah actually i pointed the roter towards the #1 tower on the cap.. like this.

IMG_00081.jpg


So I should be pointed at the actual cylinder and not the caps #1 plug? Sorry just want to make sure :p :newb:

EDIT: Don't mind the position its all lose atm.
Click to expand...

Pointing it to #1 is fine as long as #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke and not exhaust stroke. And as stated you may need to turn it slightly one way or the other to get it to run.
 
Yea i need to take it back out and double check to make sure im on compression and not the exhaust. Well back out to the garage I go. I really need to put a computer in the garage lol.
 
When I am setting up a motor for timing I usually will set point gap and dwell first, then set engine on the timing mark, 10 degrees or what ever you want you initial timing to be. Leave the distributor so you can turn it and place the cap and wires on and put the plug in the number one wire. Then turn your distributor and you will get a spark when the points open. Should leave you with timing pretty close, certainly close enough to run.
 
wrjjol.jpg


Especially on a slant, which has limited "distributor swing" it is important to get the dist. gear meshed just right. Here's how I do it, similar to above

It is ALWAYS a good idea to use a piston stop on an UN known engine to first determine that the timing marks / balancer is accurate. You only have to do this once, and if you're confident the marks are OK, skip that

So determine the compression stroke by sticking something, a hose, etc into the no1 plug hole, bump the engine until you feel compression IF the VC is off set the marks so the no1 valves are both CLOSED

BUT DO NOT SET the marks on TDC. Set them INSTEAD for whatever timing figure you want, IE as above, 10 BTC etc

Next, with the cap on the dist in your hand, make a small mark as accurately as you can directly under the no1 plug tower onto the dist. case. Remove the cap, and make a small file index on the TOP rim of the dist case in line with your first mark.

NOW YOU HAVE a permanent, easy mark for the rotor.

Insert the dist "where you think" it should go, and end up with the rotor pointing to your mark.

NEXT RETARD the dist. so the points are closed. (clockwise) Either use an ohmeter, or hook up the ignition and turn the key to run and use a test lamp. SLOWLY advance the dist. (counterclockwise) until the points open, I.E. your test lamp lights. Snug down the dist.

Examine the dist adjusting slot and make sure you have a "little room" for adjustment. If you are "all the way" to one end, you probably need to change one gear tooth, or adjust the sliding hickeydo on the dist. flange.

If you have a breakerless system, just set the dist. so the the reluctor tip is in the middle of the core of the pickup, and the rotor should be "just approaching" or "at" your no1 tower mark.

Once you learn to do this, the car should fire right up with no fuss just like it had been parked overnight.

Couple of other things. Don't forget to examine / clean the dist cam for dirt and hardened grease, as well as a general once - over for proper weight / advance operation and excessive shaft / bearing play. Put a tiny drop of grease on the APPROACH side of the points rubbing block.

SET YOUR POINTS just slightly "open" more than the book, as the rubbing block will wear. Recheck/ reset the gap / timing in a couple of months

SET YOUR TIMING a couple of degrees more advanced than you normally run it for the same reason above. The points gap will wear "shut" and the timing will retard.
 
To get it right before even trying to start, pull the spark plug and hold your finger in the hole while you bump the starter w/ ignition off. Use a remote starter switch or ground the coil output if you must use the key switch. You could also turn the engine by hand, by pulling on the fan belt (disconnect battery for safety!), if a helper can feel for cylinder pressure. When you feel compression increasing, turn the engine by hand (disconnect battery if not already) until the timing mark is at 10 deg BTDC, where you want it to spark.

Now, connect a test spark plug to the coil output wire (before distributor), with the ground electrode grounded w/ an alligator clip. Loosen the distributor and turn it max clockwise (away from the approaching rotor which turns cw in a slant). Turn the distributor ccw (towards the rotor) until you get a spark. Stop right there and tighten it. It should now fire at 10 deg BTDC when you try to start. This assumes your timing mark is correct (damper rubber didn't slip).

I can't recall doing this with points, but should work. I have done with electronic pickup. The later Crane XR700 optical pickup I have on 2 cars has an LED on the ignitor box which tells you when the slot is aligned, so you don't even need to connect a spark plug.

BTW, when you turn the engine by hand, you can tell if the engine is really good. If you fight compression on each cylinder and it takes 10 sec or more to bleed off, that is a sign of excellent compression (if no compression gage). I have had slants that are "too easy" to turn over by hand, yet the engine still runs good with minimal blow-by, so don't fault one based just on that.

Finally, consider upgrading to electronic ignition. SlantSixDan and others have good writeups on a low-cost HEI upgrade. Points are archaic and a continual problem.
 
Thank you all for the help! This site has been an amazing source of info. Took a while but I eventually got it. Now that I got it I can mess with it a bit to get it perfect. What a pain in the ***. I was a tooth off most of the time. Well now the engine is running better.

It almost feels like it wants to stall at a stopsign so I may bump it up a tick or 2. I have it at 2-3 before right now. Might take it to 5 or so. The book told me 8 but I couldn't get it to run smooth. I need to get a tachometer of some sort. Had to borrow a friends little wireless one.

RPMs set at 750
Timing at 2-3
Set the dist points to .020

What is every ones specs on this?

EDIT: One book told me 8 one said TDC and another said 2 1/2 lol.....
 
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