Distributor question...??..

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j par

j par

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So I got a crap load of electronic stuff from Speedmaster with their sale. All of which hoping beyond hopes not too good to be true LOL..
Anyways if two out of the five of these things work I'll still be ahead...
More to the point the distributor is already questionable...
I turn it and it sticks just a tad bit at one point. I can see the eight little contacts that are probably supposed to be slightly gapped and at some point it comes around and one of them touches..
Question being will this make it not work? Or will this work itself out after a few thousand revolutions..?
Thank you for everyone's experience and knowledge..
And as you all know there's no customer service for Speedmaster so it's either make it work or just toss it and try something else....
This has the built-in ignition module...
PXL_20211202_180059661.jpg
PXL_20211202_180054147.jpg
 
If it hits one or two and not the rest, either:
  • shaft it bent
  • Slack in the shaft bushing
  • or just bad forming of the two components that's supposed to be gapped
Finding the problem will be quick with the distributor in your hand.
 
j par said:
So I got a crap load of electronic stuff from Speedmaster with their sale. All of which hoping beyond hopes not too good to be true LOL..
Anyways if two out of the five of these things work I'll still be ahead...
More to the point the distributor is already questionable...
I turn it and it sticks just a tad bit at one point. I can see the eight little contacts that are probably supposed to be slightly gapped and at some point it comes around and one of them touches..
Question being will this make it not work? Or will this work itself out after a few thousand revolutions..?
Thank you for everyone's experience and knowledge..
And as you all know there's no customer service for Speedmaster so it's either make it work or just toss it and try something else....
This has the built-in ignition module...
View attachment 1715829630View attachment 1715829631
Click to expand...
:rofl::rofl::poke::rofl::rofl:
 
If the magnet is fixed and not adjustable it could be unfixable. If the factory riveted the magnet down in the wrong spot and there is no way to move it you may have to send it back. Or the shaft could be bent as pointed out above.
 
318willrun said:
If it hits one or two and not the rest, either:
  • shaft it bent
  • Slack in the shaft bushing
  • or just bad forming of the two components that's supposed to be gapped
Finding the problem will be quick with the distributor in your hand.
Click to expand...
The shaft feels tight and it's only hitting in one spot it's almost as if the ring on the bottom is just off a little maybe where it's connected..
 
Is it just me or is the triangular sensor at the rotor wing opposite of the rotor tip chipped off? Put the cap on and mark the contact points with chalk and spin it. The pattern in the chalk will show a bent shaft.
 
I'd just hit it (the plastic) with a file. I have the same reluctor in a Bosch chipped ready to run ebay special. It needs the cap clips if anyone has a source on then.
 
Those parts are often sintered. Letting it self clearance is asking for something to shatter.
Grinding on metal can change or alter the magnetic field due to the heat, vibration, or both.

If I were to do anything, I would clearance it with a fine toothed file and go slowly.
 
Phreakish said:
Those parts are often sintered. Letting it self clearance is asking for something to shatter.
Grinding on metal can change or alter the magnetic field due to the heat, vibration, or both.

If I were to do anything, I would clearance it with a fine toothed file and go slowly.
Click to expand...
It's weird it's only as if it hits in one spot like one long tooth on the outside and one long tooth on the inside they like to touch each other....
I think this is the way I'm going to go like you said just try and file those two that like to touch each other..
 
j par said:
It's weird it's only as if it hits in one spot like one long tooth on the outside and one long tooth on the inside they like to touch each other....
I think this is the way I'm going to go like you said just try and file those two that like to touch each other..
Click to expand...
Where was it made? End of discussion.
 
j par said:
The shaft feels tight and it's only hitting in one spot it's almost as if the ring on the bottom is just off a little maybe where it's connected..
Click to expand...
ALSO !!!!!! Make SURE when the reluctor passes the pick up coil that the rotor is actually pointing at a terminal in the cap !!! They can be way off. It's why I scrapped the china dizzy that was stuck in the Van Of War for a factory Chrysler dizzy and worked with that, because of inconsistencies.
 
j par said:
The shaft feels tight and it's only hitting in one spot it's almost as if the ring on the bottom is just off a little maybe where it's connected..
Click to expand...

Just re-clearance it and you are good to go. Like the magnetic Pickup at a lawnmower's flywheel . You want it close but you don't want it touching .
 
George Jets said:
Hard to beat time proven mopar parts.
HEI conversion
Ask @318willrun

View attachment 1715829878
Click to expand...
I did that because the van came without a ecu or ballast resistor, as it had a black box from the factory (TBI). Much easier to just do the HEI on the Chrysler distributor and it has worked well. Previous owner ran it with a 59.98 Chinese dizzy from Ebay which I didn't care for.
 
j par said:
It's weird it's only as if it hits in one spot like one long tooth on the outside and one long tooth on the inside they like to touch each other....
I think this is the way I'm going to go like you said just try and file those two that like to touch each other..
Click to expand...

I bet the ring in the distributor body is off center, and the rotor has one long tooth.
If the dist was bent, the tooth that makes contact would have the smallest gap all the way around...

They're using tubular rivets that are too long to secure the ring in the distributor, and then smashing them to bits. Honestly, that doesn't say "quality" to me, and so I'd bet they have no good locating feature for that ring, just the eyeball alignment of their slave kids putting them together..
 
j par said:
End of discussion? Are you just heckling my thread or are you ending it?...
Click to expand...
Just giving you a bad time. Like I said look at where it was made. That should answer your original question. I haven't put 2 sets of points in y original dual point for 3 or 4 years. Just sayin'
 
Okay let me just start back from the top here and reiterate what I said in post one... Maybe a little more clear...
This is all cheap Chinese crap I know it you know it everybody knows it...
The cheapest generic American Auto wire kit is $299... For $227 I got a generic 20 circuit wiring kit with enough wire probably to do three cars, the mini starter, 10.5 mm spark plug wires, a solid filled coil and this distributor...
The only thing more or less banking on is the wiring kit which they're just wires LOL... I'm pretty much considering the other four pieces a free trial offer.. again if I have to toss them in the garbage I'm not going to be losing any sleep...
Soooo... Those of you who offered suggestions and help I sure appreciate it..
Those who want to just tell me it's Chinese crap.. no **** Sherlock...
 
318willrun said:
ALSO !!!!!! Make SURE when the reluctor passes the pick up coil that the rotor is actually pointing at a terminal in the cap !!! They can be way off. It's why I scrapped the china dizzy that was stuck in the Van Of War for a factory Chrysler dizzy and worked with that, because of inconsistencies.
Click to expand...
I took a look and it lined up but I would think that would change with centrifugal advance and vacuum advance as well?..
 
j par said:
I took a look and it lined up but I would think that would change with centrifugal advance and vacuum advance as well?..
Click to expand...

If the part on the body is actually offset, yes, it will change with vac advance. If the shaft is bent, centrifugal advance would change it..

A close eye, maybe a dial indicator, and some good observation should tell you what's wrong.

I would label all the points on the rotating rotor 1-8, and the fixed ones A-H. Then measure the gap at each A-H for all 1-8. Should be 64 measurements. With that, you should be able to tell which one is off, and even by how much.

Or just adjust what you can, and check clearance all the way around. Set it for .005 min at the closest pair and send it. Worst case, you get 100 miles and have to ditch it for a new one. Maybe one of those fancy Bluetooth ones? LOL
 
Jpar. No sarcasm.
j par said:
I took a look and it lined up but I would think that would change with centrifugal advance and vacuum advance as well?..
Click to expand...
Should be a little "before" the terminal and when fully advanced, it should line up.
 
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