Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
It doesn't need the entire floor the drivers side is fine just the the passenger side so it needs half a floor hahaha.
DIY floor pans.
- Thread starter Dartfreak75
- Start date
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I've seen a video where a guy did that, might even be the same one. I was pretty impressed with how the panels turned out! But, I also have to say that guy in the video I watched definitely had more than average form building and metal working skills. And I know for absolutely sure that what he did wasn't easier, less time consuming, or even cheaper than buying a full pan if you considered his time and labor. Maybe he just had a ton of time on his hands, but more than likely he couldn't get a replacement panel because of where he was.
I dunno about that. With the rust that you show there I think you'll find that some of the metal you think is good enough to weld to definitely isn't. I've done a lot of patches and even partial pan replacements where I ordered just the front foot well or just one half of a pan, and most of the time when I'm done welding I wish I'd made the patch twice the size I thought I needed because a bunch of the metal I thought was good really wasn't. You don't want to end up in a spot where you're making new floor pan with welding wire as you overlap bead on bead looking for good metal.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Ok thanks guys I really appreciate it. I have a couple questions. Did anything change dimensionally from 74 to 75 I cant find anything for 75 everything stops at 74. I'm pretty sure nothing changes from 74-76 in swingers and scamps? This is the whole passenger side floor full length and it says it goes from the rocker to half way to the hump will this work? Even tho it says 74?
Think it had something to do with clearance for catalytic convertor. Im sure someone will chime in with a solid answer.
home made panels, large flat area, i prefer 14 gauge, then 16 or 18 for the more shapely parts.
Smaller parts are easier to form.
Air hammer and various bits on a block of wood and you can shape beads and use it for forming the panels. I made my own 4 foot brake, and a planishing hammer with a frame to hold my air hammer to shape metal pieces. Its handy.
home made panels, large flat area, i prefer 14 gauge, then 16 or 18 for the more shapely parts.
Smaller parts are easier to form.
Air hammer and various bits on a block of wood and you can shape beads and use it for forming the panels. I made my own 4 foot brake, and a planishing hammer with a frame to hold my air hammer to shape metal pieces. Its handy.
Stanley Blake
Well-Known Member
I believe that panel goes to 1976, AMD has another panel that’s for a dart sport 405-1267
Stanley Blake
Well-Known Member
The AMD panel is the way to go.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Ok guys im working late tonight lol i got the rest of the car cleaned out and all the old insulation out the drivers side looks solid all the way back to the trunk hump the passenger side is another story under the seat insulation had some surface rust i cleaned it with a wire brush and took a screwdriver to it really good i had one spot that went thru. What is the panel called behind the floor pan? Like the part under the seat? Its flat enough i can weld a panel in there im not worried about it. My question is, is why is the passenger side so bad? Where is all this moisture coming from only on one side of the car? Here are some more pics of the whole thing.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Does that panel go up and over the ledge under the seat?
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
More pics
Stanley Blake
Well-Known Member
It ends were the rear seat hook is.
Stanley Blake
Well-Known Member
Maybe the windshield is leaking. Maybe the heater core. Or maybe the lower cowl. Going to have to get your heater box out and start poking around up in there, see what you got.
Welcome to the rabbit hole. Come on in. There's a bunch of us in here. LOL.
Ian McCrimmon
Well-Known Member
Back in the old days we would take street signs and beat them in place. Rivet them down and your done. If anyone found a stop sign in your mopar floor it could have been one of my cars
Been there done that!
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
The duster and swinger isnt the same is it? Would mine be different from yours?
Rabbit hole? Underground rabbit habitat. We all live there...
Stanley Blake
Well-Known Member
They look the same to me
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
From the looks of this one it looks like it stops at the plug the area I have highlighted. Can you give me the part number of yours?
Wiper pivots are suspect as well.
I think 75 was the first year for catalytic converter. The 75 up floor pan has a hump for cat clearance. If your running a cat you will have to modify that area. If not, install the pan as-is.
I think 75 was the first year for catalytic converter. The 75 up floor pan has a hump for cat clearance. If your running a cat you will have to modify that area. If not, install the pan as-is.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I think this is the piece that goes being the floorpan
I think your right. That back part is a rear footwell or intermediate pan.
Stanley Blake
Well-Known Member
I got the 405-1267 pan, it looks like the pan in your picture is short.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I know my wiper pivots and the air duct area leaks but how would that affect the rear ? Does it make it that far back?
Stanley Blake
Well-Known Member
I guess the dart floor is a little different in the rear than a duster.
Yup. Wet carpet and pad. Once it starts, the rust monster keeps eatin.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Yea i think it is mine has like three separate pieces the floor pan then the section under the seat then the part that goes over the wheels into the trunk looks like the duster only has two the floor and the part going into the trunk
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
What do you guys think of this idea? I can reconstruct the driveshaft hump down the the floor and the area under the seat then put this in the floor pan area?
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