Do I need to adjust valves with hyd. lifters?

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doogievlg

doogievlg

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I’ve noticed a little noise coming from the top end of my motor. Haven’t had time to pull the valve covers off yet. I’ve always read that hydraulic lifters don’t require you to adjust valves unless one of the rocker arms was taken apart. Is this true?
 
If you have adjustable rockers, it doesn't hurt a thing to go over them maybe every couple of years with a performance camshaft.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you have adjustable rockers, it doesn't hurt a thing to go over them maybe every couple of years with a performance camshaft.
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This one hasn’t seen too much abuse besides on the dyno but I think you are right. Now I just need to learn how to do it.
 
most manuals tell you to adjust several valves at a time with the crank' in certain positions but that is for a stock cam without much overlap/lift. a fool proof way is to turn it over by hand (plugs out) 'til your first cylinder's exhaust valve just starts to open and adjust that same cylinder's intake valve. then turn 'til that cylinder's intake valve is just coming to fully closed and adjust that cylinder's exhaust valve. repeat 7 more times to do all 8 cylinders. doing it this way ensures the valve being adjusted is on the cam's 'base circle' away from the lobes/lift ramps. for adjustment setting loosen 'til there's free play, then tighten slowly while turning the pushrod between finger and thumb. when the rocker arm just pinches the pushrod tighten a further 1/2 to 3/4 turn. job done. :thumbsup:
neil.
 
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What I use when in doubt.
 
Depending on how high you rev the engine, and how soon valve-float begins;
I set my preload on the low-side so that the lifters cannot pump up and drive the valves into the pistons. The penalty is periodic re-lashing. No big deal to me and after two or three adjustments, mine have been holding steady.

When you hear that ticking, get after it ASAP, on account of, if a lobe is going down, it will very quickly fill the engine with iron-filings, and not all of it is gonna find it's way into the oil-filter.
 
The type of lifter also makes a difference. If you have lifters with the very small wire clip retaining the plunger, then you need to adjust in a pretty good amount of preload, for instance .050"- .060". On the other hand, if you have lifters that use the heavy duty snap rings retaining the plungers, then you can use a liter preload such as .010"-.020". In fact, I prefer preload on the light side.
 
One more thing to add here....if you're running some sort of anti pump up lifter, they adjust from a VERY light preload to a very small amount (about .002") of lash like a solid. A lot of people make the mistake of adjusting those like a standard hydraulic lifter and that's incorrect.
 
RustyRatRod said:
One more thing to add here....if you're running some sort of anti pump up lifter, they adjust from a VERY light preload to a very small amount (about .002") of lash like a solid. A lot of people make the mistake of adjusting those like a standard hydraulic lifter and that's incorrect.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info Rusty, I have never heard this before.
 
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