Door window removal help

[rod7515]

Working on my 66 Dart. I was going to just tape off the windows when its time to paint but I have decided I should pull the window, tracks and regulator so it can all be cleaned and it will make painting easier. So what has to be removed and what order does it come out of the door. Here are some pics of the door and the bolts holding everything in.

The nut on nut on the far right with the waffle type washer goes to the vent assembly and the 2 allen head bolts on the last pic is also part of the vent assembly. does this get removed before the window or wait until last.
Then 3 bolts aounr the window handle regulator ad which other bolts need to be removed for the window and regulator to come out. Also does the window come out by itself or as one big assembly including the regulator.

I will be removing the door latch as well. This will allow me to clean the inside of he door and spray a rust inhibitor into all the seam areas of the door.

Appreciate any help you can throw my way on this. Its not something I wanted to tackle but I guess its the right way!
Thanks Rod

 

[RedFish]

Just don't. A carburetor or just about anything is easier to service. You could take it all apart, rebuild that drive bearing assembly where your winder handle attaches, buy forward channel guide kits, replace all the rusty little clips on the latch/lock linkages, renewing as much as possible to avoid tomorrows typical problems. When this "like new" door goes back on the car, the wind noise and water leak fine tuning begins. If its a hardtop, getting the door glass to quarter glass mating and proper operation can take days.
There's a eccentric stop on the regulators that can be adjusted to let the glasses roll down lower. Easier to R&R the fuzzies. You could remove a few bolts to lift the vent window assembly straight up a few inches too. Work arounds to get painting done. Save the door gut surgery nightmare until the diagnosis says that surgery is req'd. Or... take it all apart now, build the door guts after the door is hung and aligned on the car. Either way plan to spend a lot of time and money doing a lot more than "cleaning". Good luck

 

[Detroit Iron]

Just don't. A carburetor or just about anything is easier to service. You could take it all apart, rebuild that drive bearing assembly where your winder handle attaches, buy forward channel guide kits, replace all the rusty little clips on the latch/lock linkages, renewing as much as possible to avoid tomorrows typical problems. When this "like new" door goes back on the car, the wind noise and water leak fine tuning begins. If its a hardtop, getting the door glass to quarter glass mating and proper operation can take days.
There's a eccentric stop on the regulators that can be adjusted to let the glasses roll down lower. Easier to R&R the fuzzies. You could remove a few bolts to lift the vent window assembly straight up a few inches too. Work arounds to get painting done. Save the door gut surgery nightmare until the diagnosis says that surgery is req'd. Or... take it all apart now, build the door guts after the door is hung and aligned on the car. Either way plan to spend a lot of time and money doing a lot more than "cleaning". Good luck

Dang! Captain Kill Joy for sure, but I think he's right....

 

[PSegarra]

I agreed with RedFish. I am doing the same with my 66, but did not take it apart. Just removed the glass.

 

[Vince Gillespie]

Just don't. A carburetor or just about anything is easier to service. You could take it all apart, rebuild that drive bearing assembly where your winder handle attaches, buy forward channel guide kits, replace all the rusty little clips on the latch/lock linkages, renewing as much as possible to avoid tomorrows typical problems. When this "like new" door goes back on the car, the wind noise and water leak fine tuning begins. If its a hardtop, getting the door glass to quarter glass mating and proper operation can take days.
There's a eccentric stop on the regulators that can be adjusted to let the glasses roll down lower. Easier to R&R the fuzzies. You could remove a few bolts to lift the vent window assembly straight up a few inches too. Work arounds to get painting done. Save the door gut surgery nightmare until the diagnosis says that surgery is req'd. Or... take it all apart now, build the door guts after the door is hung and aligned on the car. Either way plan to spend a lot of time and money doing a lot more than "cleaning". Good luck

Hey RedFish , I am going to be removing/replacing my door skins for my 70' Dart . Just having read your response to rod7515, would you recommend just removing the glass and not the regulator in my situation ? I found out the hard way that glass doesn't like grinding sparks vey much . Thank you in advance !

 

[RedFish]

As mentioned above... There are plastic or nylon glides attached to the door glass, captured, traveling in the channel which is part of the vent window assembly. So large glass and vent window assembly go out and in together. Those glides have a tiny steel pin through them and holes in the edge of the glass.
In handling the weight of the glass could crack the glides in half at their pin hole. Those glides are part of a "channel run" kit ( not sold separately ). Last kits I purchased were 55 per door. So... open the vent window a bit and tape, strap, someway secure the door glass to that channel for insurance. I used a piece of strap tied in a knot, along with 2 little blocks of wood on the strap and a 3" c-clamp. The clamp served as a handle on the far side of the glass/assembly.
Remove the fastener at door glass to regulator, lift all this out. Leave regulator in the door, unbolt it and let it lay in the bottom of the door, whatever works best. I haven't reskinned a door so.... Hope this helps

 

[Vince Gillespie]

As mentioned above... There are plastic or nylon glides attached to the door glass, captured, traveling in the channel which is part of the vent window assembly. So large glass and vent window assembly go out and in together. Those glides have a tiny steel pin through them and holes in the edge of the glass.
In handling the weight of the glass could crack the glides in half at their pin hole. Those glides are part of a "channel run" kit ( not sold separately ). Last kits I purchased were 55 per door. So... open the vent window a bit and tape, strap, someway secure the door glass to that channel for insurance. I used a piece of strap tied in a knot, along with 2 little blocks of wood on the strap and a 3" c-clamp. The clamp served as a handle on the far side of the glass/assembly.
Remove the fastener at door glass to regulator, lift all this out. Leave regulator in the door, unbolt it and let it lay in the bottom of the door, whatever works best. I haven't reskinned a door so.... Hope this helps

Wonderfull , thank you RedFish for your help ! It's very much appreciated !!!