Doug's Headers Install on 4spd 66 Valiant

Post tech article for Early-A Dougs Header Install

  • Post updated tech article and no Sticky

    Votes: 7 35.0%

  • Post updated tech article and make Sticky

    Votes: 12 60.0%

  • Forget about. No need or interest

    Votes: 1 5.0%
  • Total voters
    20
  • Poll closed .
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daves66valiant

daves66valiant

68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100
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Got the installation of the Doug's Headers finished. Just need to hook up the tranny and fire everything up. This a similar write as the Spitfire headers on the same car. I happened to get these from Moparmax Magazine.

You can see the article at

http://www.moparmax.com/tech/2009/iv_6-headers-1.html

I can do a FABO write up that I can post separately if there is interest.

Dave
 
I think it belongs in a seprate tech archive section.
A "How to"
 
Hey Dave, Brewers sells an offset clutch rod for this application
 
Hi Dave,
Did you ever install the spitfires fully on that car? I was watching that post but didn't see any final pictures or conclusion.
Thanks
 
dart4forte said:
Hey Dave, Brewers sells an offset clutch rod for this application
Click to expand...

bbeep71 said:
Hi Dave,

That's cool. I may end up getting it. I hope to have those z-bars in the mail on Friday for ya.

Did you ever install the spitfires fully on that car? I was watching that post but didn't see any final pictures or conclusion.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Right after I got the Spitfires ceramic coated to reinstall, the guys at Moparmax offered me these. I never fully hooked up the exhaust. I ended up using the Dynomax band clamps. The spitfires are still easier to install honestly.
 
daves66valiant said:
Right after I got the Spitfires ceramic coated to reinstall, the guys at Moparmax offered me these. I never fully hooked up the exhaust. I ended up using the Dynomax band clamps. The spitfires are still easier to install honestly.
Click to expand...


So, are you going to use the Spitfires? Reason I ask is I now have a 64 Dart vert with a 273.

Also, couldn't help but I noticed the Z bar is not exactly straight. I had that same problem with the bracket that mounts to the bell housing not lining up with the inner fender bracket.

Oh and something else, The clutch rod going into the fork, lose that rubber piece, it will wear out. A little trick given to me is to use the rocker arm ball from a small block Chev. You get a more solid feel in the clutch engagement.
 
hey, great article! but it sure looks like its a b***h getting those headers in. i think for the money most people are going to be looking for something easier. it would have been really cool if you could have dyno'ed the car before and after the install to see what kind of performance gains were had with the headers over the 273 manifolds.
-Tim
 
Dave, If you do a nice write up I will sticky it in the early A section. I think that would be the best spot for it. Perhaps put a copy of it in the archives.
 
dart4forte said:
So, are you going to use the Spitfires? Reason I ask is I now have a 64 Dart vert with a 273.

Also, couldn't help but I noticed the Z bar is not exactly straight. I had that same problem with the bracket that mounts to the bell housing not lining up with the inner fender bracket.

Oh and something else, The clutch rod going into the fork, lose that rubber piece, it will wear out. A little trick given to me is to use the rocker arm ball from a small block Chev. You get a more solid feel in the clutch engagement.
Click to expand...

Yeah you are right John it is not perfectly level. Everything seems to work so far. I may still need to shim the motor slightly to level it out a bit.

Great tip. The previous one was broken. I'll head down to the machine shop in town and see if they have any scrapped rocker arm pivot balls. Then again they are really cheap.

As far as the clutch rod I ended up making one out of a spare clutch pedal pushrod. It has the perfect bend in it already. Only thing is it that it is 7/16 thick rod instead of 3/8" I just cut it and made new threads with a die. Now it's beefier and it's the perfect bend.
 
AdamR said:
Dave, If you do a nice write up I will sticky it in the early A section. I think that would be the best spot for it. Perhaps put a copy of it in the archives.
Click to expand...

Cool Adam. I want to add a few things to make it better. I had a deadline for Moparmax and I didn't get everything totally finished.
 
daves66valiant said:
Yeah you are right John it is not perfectly level. Everything seems to work so far. I may still need to shim the motor slightly to level it out a bit.

Great tip. The previous one was broken. I'll head down to the machine shop in town and see if they have any scrapped rocker arm pivot balls. Then again they are really cheap.

As far as the clutch rod I ended up making one out of a spare clutch pedal pushrod. It has the perfect bend in it already. Only thing is it that it is 7/16 thick rod instead of 3/8" I just cut it and made new threads with a die. Now it's beefier and it's the perfect bend.
Click to expand...


That will work to. Which flywheel are you running?
 
I believe it is a stock steel flywheel for the 360 with a Centerforce clutch kit.
 
Nice article Dave !

But after seeing all the BS you went through to put those in, makes me love my 340 manifolds more everyday!!! 8)
 
WOW Dave. I'm sure you might remember, I was one of those who found out that the standard 10.5" clutch fork didn't work.

Props goes out to you for figuring out how to make it work. Of course, I now also have a set of TTI's that we will likely use.

In any case, sharing work like this in a very informational manner is much appreciated.

Cheers to you!!!
 
Great job Dave!!! Nice write up with good attention to detail with the photographs.

I just finished my complete TTI installation on my car. I'll have a (much less polished...)article showing what I went through.

Headers. Sheeesh! :thebirdm:
 
jahsh said:
WOW Dave. I'm sure you might remember, I was one of those who found out that the standard 10.5" clutch fork didn't work.

Props goes out to you for figuring out how to make it work. Of course, I now also have a set of TTI's that we will likely use.

In any case, sharing work like this in a very informational manner is much appreciated.

Cheers to you!!!
Click to expand...

Yes I do remember your posts and the problems you had switching to a hydraulic TOB from Keisler because of the 10.5". Another member went to a custom 9.5" clutch and flywheel. It took a little while to figure out but that's what makes this site awesome. I hope to clean up the post with some added details I've since found.

Enjoy putting those TTI's in. hahahaha. You already know what you're in for.

FASTBACK340 said:
Great job Dave!!! Nice write up with good attention to detail with the photographs.

I just finished my complete TTI installation on my car. I'll have a (much less polished...)article showing what I went through.

Headers. Sheeesh! :thebirdm:
Click to expand...

Thanks John. Glad you got yours in there. I look forward to seeing your how-to.
 
Super post Dave. I also have the Dougs & am going to put in soon. Your 10.5 clutch setup looks great- I may eventually go that route although I'm using the special 9.5" setup you talked about. My car's all apart & I plan to install without the K-frame which should make it easy. The brake lines are very important as the headers are very close. I'm significantly rerouting all my lines which is very time consuming if you don't do on a regular basis.
 
Very nice article.
You must be a glutton for punishment, I've had a bfh and torch out.8)
 
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