Doug's headers not fitting - frustration

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What I think might be wrong are the brackets, not the biscuits.

The ones I'm using were bought new from Schumacher and I confirmed when I ordered that they were what I needed to put a 360 on biscuit mounts in a 71 Duster. They absolutely 100% should work but if I could find a set of brackets close by I'd buy/rent/borrow them to see if they help.
could measure from the face to the holes and such and make a quick drawing.. someone here will have some they can compare to... faster than shipping/waiting
 
could measure from the face to the holes and such and make a quick drawing.. someone here will have some they can compare to... faster than shipping/waiting
I found a thread describing how to modify a 318 bracket to work, you weld a piece to the driver's side mount so it bolts to the top ear on the rearward side. Look at the 3rd and 5th photos on this post
318 to 360 motor mounts (confused)
 
I found a thread describing how to modify a 318 bracket to work, you weld a piece to the driver's side mount so it bolts to the top ear on the rearward side. Look at the 3rd and 5th photos on this post
318 to 360 motor mounts (confused)
yeah but you need to know if the height of the pad the biscuit goes on is the right distance from the mounting holes for the block
 
I just checked my receipt and confirmed I bought the correct brackets so they should work.
Part Number: A67LA - V8 K-member to 340/360

I'm not going out of my way to find a replacement yet.
 
I just checked my receipt and confirmed I bought the correct brackets so they should work.
Part Number: A67LA - V8 K-member to 340/360

I'm not going out of my way to find a replacement yet.
doesn't mean they are right... i bought a $459 edelbrock intake this year with holes so far off it wouldn't bolt to a motor...
 
What I think might be wrong are the brackets, not the biscuits.

The ones I'm using were bought new from Schumacher and I confirmed when I ordered that they were what I needed to put a 360 on biscuit mounts in a 71 Duster. They absolutely 100% should work but if I could find a set of brackets close by I'd buy/rent/borrow them to see if they help.
That’s the exact kit I got from Schumacher for my 360 to QA1 k-frame. Using solid mounts so I’ve got the rubber mounts from Schumacher sitting in a box
 
I took my lunch break in the garage to loosen up the bracket bolts and take a few photos. After loosening the bolts I lifted it up and sat it down carefully and it went right back to the same spot. The one photo I wanted to show the coupler hitting didn't turn out for some reason. Cheap phone I guess.
View attachment 1716250580
View attachment 1716250579
View attachment 1716250578
View attachment 1716250577
It looks like there's something weird going on with this one, but if anything that should raise the back because if anything it's tipped to the front.

View attachment 1716250576
View attachment 1716250575

Sing out if you see anything questionable there.
That doesn't look right to me. The actual brackets just don't seem right. Also, the brackets hanging that far off the biscuit, and the nut so close to the wall.. just seems different to me for some reason
 
That doesn't look right to me. The actual brackets just don't seem right. Also, the brackets hanging that far off the biscuit, and the nut so close to the wall.. just seems different to me for some reason
this looks more normal to me. nut appears to be a 1/4 inch more towards the center, and the washer is larger and still farther away... maybe it's all in the pictures
1715900580662.png
 
Man.. you are bad luck.. came home tonight to put my centerlink/tie rods in.. had to beat the piss out of a header tube to clear the pitman arm.. my engine is like 1.5" more forward than a 64+ car though, i hadn't thought bout it but i'm lucky my headers fit as well as they do.. Trans lines need more tweaking.. really unhappy with them
 
this looks more normal to me. nut appears to be a 1/4 inch more towards the center, and the washer is larger and still farther away... maybe it's all in the pictures
I can't tell by eyeballing photos I would have to take them off and have a set to compare on hand.

It's so far off it's not even funny.

20240516_182720.jpg


After work, I raised the transmission - that made it worse.

Then I took the nut off the driver side biscuit, lifted the engine up and jammed all the shims I've got (1/2") under the biscuit - no significant help.

While I had the transmission on the wheeled jack, I lowered it back down and tried to pry the tailshaft toward the passenger side. No joy.

I don't know what to do next, I'm out of ideas other than to take it all apart one more time and break out the hammer and torch again. I am not happy about that. But I don't know what else I can do besides order a stud kit and buy manifolds for it. With my luck, those wouldn't fit either.
 
Bob - did you measure where your motor is sitting using TTi specs posted earlier? 70 Dart, 4 speed, manual steering with 1.03 bars. Cleared everything perfectly. At first I didn't have the motor in the right spot and it was hitting one of the TB. So measure first before anything.
 
Man.. you are bad luck.. came home tonight to put my centerlink/tie rods in.. had to beat the piss out of a header tube to clear the pitman arm.. my engine is like 1.5" more forward than a 64+ car though, i hadn't thought bout it but i'm lucky my headers fit as well as they do.. Trans lines need more tweaking.. really unhappy with them
BOHICA Bend Over Here It Comes Again

It's sucking all the joy out of having the car, that's for sure.
 
Bob - did you measure where your motor is sitting using TTi specs posted earlier? 70 Dart, 4 speed, manual steering with 1.03 bars. Cleared everything perfectly. At first I didn't have the motor in the right spot and it was hitting one of the TB. So measure first before anything.
Yes I did it was off by 1/8" and you can see in photos above that an 1/8" doesn't seem like it would even make a dent (pun intended) in how far it needs to move.

It's either the engine brackets, or the k-frame isn't sitting where it should be. I had a friend ask me the distance from the top of the K-frame engine mount to the frame rail on the passenger side of the K-frame. I didn't ask why but it's 4-1/2" and I'm waiting on him to get back to me so that might tell somebody something or give you something to compare to another car.
 
BOHICA Bend Over Here It Comes Again

It's sucking all the joy out of having the car, that's for sure.
yeah.. i don't mind that much.. this car i'm not rushing on or in a rush to drive.. still not as nice as i would like... i am just a hack at heart
 
yeah.. i don't mind that much.. this car i'm not rushing on or in a rush to drive.. still not as nice as i would like... i am just a hack at heart
Yeah, a look at the paint on my firewall and the condition of that steering column shows I'm just a hack too. Or in other words, some things just aren't that important to me. :D

I need to get this one mobile because I will need to be able to move it out soon when my road runner comes back from paint. I could go ahead and break the engine in like it is now, but I couldn't move it so no reason to even start down that road.
 
Yeah, a look at the paint on my firewall and the condition of that steering column shows I'm just a hack too. Or in other words, some things just aren't that important to me. :D

I need to get this one mobile because I will need to be able to move it out soon when my road runner comes back from paint. I could go ahead and break the engine in like it is now, but I couldn't move it so no reason to even start down that road.
yeah... i try to do **** nice but it never works out.. spent a lot of time on my engine bay and the paint laid down like ****.. scared to paint the new fenders now, i wanna get mine mobile enough so i can get it out of the garage and mop.. soo many slivers everytime i touch the ground
 
I just posted this in another thread some where but hadn’t read all your posts but I put an old motor mount plate as a shim. Which helped getting the header off the column. These are the tri-y headers though may not work for your app.
IMG_4049.png
 
I can't tell by eyeballing photos I would have to take them off and have a set to compare on hand.

It's so far off it's not even funny.

View attachment 1716250741

After work, I raised the transmission - that made it worse.

Then I took the nut off the driver side biscuit, lifted the engine up and jammed all the shims I've got (1/2") under the biscuit - no significant help.

While I had the transmission on the wheeled jack, I lowered it back down and tried to pry the tailshaft toward the passenger side. No joy.

I don't know what to do next, I'm out of ideas other than to take it all apart one more time and break out the hammer and torch again. I am not happy about that. But I don't know what else I can do besides order a stud kit and buy manifolds for it. With my luck, those wouldn't fit either.

Damm! this is a tough one!

Ok , lets see what may be able to be moved to gain clearance

1. The steering column bolts going into the firewall to allow movement of the column

2. The bolts holding the power steering box

3. The motor mount brackets

4. transmission mount

5 transmission cross member.

6. the mount on the k member for the power steering box. this is a known weak area and may have moved.
 
I just posted this in another thread some where but hadn’t read all your posts but I put an old motor mount plate as a shim. Which helped getting the header off the column. These are the tri-y headers though may not work for your app. View attachment 1716250757
Thanks I had some 16gauge (1/16) that I cut into shims that slip over the stud.
 
Damm! this is a tough one!

Ok , lets see what may be able to be moved to gain clearance

1. The steering column bolts going into the firewall to allow movement of the column

2. The bolts holding the power steering box

3. The motor mount brackets

4. transmission mount

5 transmission cross member.

6. the mount on the k member for the power steering box. this is a known weak area and may have moved.
1. The coupler fits on the splines of the steering box, so moving the column itself doesn't seem like it would have any effect.
2. Hadn't considered this
3. Already loose
4. Already loose
5. Already loose
6. If it's this I should just junk the k-frame and start over with a spool mount.

:thumbsup:
 
yeah... i try to do **** nice but it never works out.. spent a lot of time on my engine bay and the paint laid down like ****.. scared to paint the new fenders now, i wanna get mine mobile enough so i can get it out of the garage and mop.. soo many slivers everytime i touch the ground
How about when you've done a great job on the paint, and put on one coat too many and ruin it.

It's the story of my life

 
I just took everything off that could keep the engine from moving, raised it up, shoved it to the right until the stud bumped on the top of the k-frame slot, then tightened that nut. Then I just sat the whole thing down. Now I've got it all the way to the passenger side - no slot showing. The engine isn't level right now, but the steering coupler still hits the header. I could've raised it up and shimmed the driver side until it was level, but you know what, it was hitting while I had it lifted on the hook and the shims won't change that.

I'm done. What did the header say to the mechanic? HIT ME!

 
I just took everything off that could keep the engine from moving, raised it up, shoved it to the right until the stud bumped on the top of the k-frame slot, then tightened that nut. Then I just sat the whole thing down. Now I've got it all the way to the passenger side - no slot showing. The engine isn't level right now, but the steering coupler still hits the header. I could've raised it up and shimmed the driver side until it was level, but you know what, it was hitting while I had it lifted on the hook and the shims won't change that.

I'm done. What did the header say to the mechanic? HIT ME!


Man you are having a tough time with this one!

I think if the headers were a problem, you may have to dimple them a little but, no way should you have to mangle them to fit. I f you do, they are junk.

I don't know if I've asked this before but are you sure you have the correct headers for your application?

71 duster?

360 engine?

Biscuit motor mounts?

4-speed?

A call to Dougs headers is in order with the updated info from everything you have tried itemized.

I think you are down to a manufacturers issue as there are literally no other adjustments you can make.

I've been down this road before with ill fitting headers and swore I'd never do it again.

I went with TTI shorties and eliminated all the ill fitting bullshit for good.

Yea, I probably gave up a few HP over a set of long tubes but I made it up with some real good tuning.

No more busted knuckles, scraping them over the driveway or any matchstick left on the street, easier plug changes etc..

My car can run mid 11's .

I m happy with that.

Here's a pic of the shorties on my 408 Stroker Magnum.



1715987881968.png
 
I've been down this road before with ill fitting headers and swore I'd never do it again.

I went with TTI shorties and eliminated all the ill fitting bullshit for good.
If only I would've known. I bought Doug's because of the glowing reviews of how they bolted right up out of the box, but no one expects the Spanish Inquisition.

I can't help thinking there's something I'm overlooking, but I kind of ran out of ideas after moving it all the way to the passenger side today and still having a problem. I can keep screwing around, or I can get it over with. Same mindset I had when I dented them for the torsion bars.

I've got a set of Schumacher BB headers that are shorty design. Those things are the bee's knees. I bought them for this car when it had a 400 in it. I will probably put them on my road runner when it goes back together instead of the long tube Hooker 2-piece headers that I was running on it.
 
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