Doug's headers not fitting - frustration

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340sFastback said:
Your bolts don't have the taper?
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Sure they do, and there's a matching taper in the frame rail. That's the story I had heard before too. I had them torqued to 150, no way they were going anywhere they weren't meant to go.

Then another reliable source told me there is room for adjustment and I should check that, then I started measuring and found the K-frame wasn't square to the car. It took a couple of cycles of loosening bolts and shoving things around but eventually I got it where it needs to be.

I can't say how that happened, but it did. I'm just glad I didn't go ahead and wail on the tube that was hitting the steering coupler.
 
Uncle Bob said:
Sure they do, and there's a matching taper in the frame rail. That's the story I had heard before too. I had them torqued to 150, no way they were going anywhere they weren't meant to go.

Then another reliable source told me there is room for adjustment and I should check that, then I started measuring and found the K-frame wasn't square to the car. It took a couple of cycles of loosening bolts and shoving things around but eventually I got it where it needs to be.

I can't say how that happened, but it did. I'm just glad I didn't go ahead and wail on the tube that was hitting the steering coupler.
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Awesome you kept at it found root cause and avoided the sledge hammering.
 
Uncle Bob said:
Yes I think I have it. It is moved far to the passenger side with a 3/8" shim on the driver side and I can spin the coupler so long as I take the cover off that. That gets caught at the corners so I will trim off what isn't needed to clear the header. I've got a cover, seal, and wire clamp coming as part of addressing that.

I could move the engine over further - I've had it over further while it was all out of whack - but I'm trying to avoid that on principal.

I am also considering a truck mount on the driver's side to get rid of that stack of shims. AFAICT, those are about 1/2" thicker.
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I'm glade things are working out for you.
 
340sFastback said:
Awesome you kept at it found root cause and avoided the sledge hammering.
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How do you like the 391 gears? I was thinking of putting them in my 66 barracuda. I have a dyna rear I'm putting in it. I built a 360 magnum motor for it pushing 470 hp. It was a tight fit. Had to go serpentine belt change and a different ps pump.
 
340sFastback said:
Even on clean original unmolested cars engine can be sitting in there wrong due to extremely sloppy factory tolerances. Now add all those other factors age, ppl swapped k members, prior damage, aftermarket motor mounts, mods etc then probability of engine not located correctly goes up.

The header manufacturers have to assume a certain engine placement. My headers just barely clear lots of things. Engine placement off just a little they would be hitting hitting torsion bars, steering linkage, frame rails, steering shaft ect.
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That’s 100% bullshit right there.

I’ve been screwing with these cars since 1980 and I’ve never seen one more than a 1/4 inch off. Ever.

Go look at the garbage GM and Ford put out. Those were some junk ****. Chevelles that crab walk down the road. Mustangs with engines angled to one side.

Never seen that **** on a Chrysler. Ever.

Those headers are junk IF the car hasn’t been hit in the front.

Since I don’t drive automatics (unless it’s the old lady’s car) I have installed more headers on stick cars than I care to even consider.

A stick with power steering is horrible for headers.

That’s why Hooker made their two best headers to NOT fit power steering.

So if a header manufacturer says it last header will fit power steering AND a stick I know they are garbage.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Those headers are junk IF the car hasn’t been hit in the front.
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As far as I know and can tell, it hasn't. But it's been around so who knows.

I went back and forth trying to move it away from the steering gear box and kept running into one or the other torsion bar. So, one more big *** dent and I've got steering now.
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You can't really tell in the photo but that is a large dent - it's basically flat across the radius you see there with the burned paint. But the steering turns now.

Yes, these parts fit power steering. Of course they do, it says so right on the website.
 
It's still ugly but now it's together, z-bar is in, torsion bars are slipped in, engine mounting is all tight.

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I managed to tear the lip seal on the coupler, I think the cap cut it when it was coming through the firewall.
 
Uncle Bob said:
It's still ugly but now it's together, z-bar is in, torsion bars are slipped in, engine mounting is all tight.

View attachment 1716255407

I managed to tear the lip seal on the coupler, I think the cap cut it when it was coming through the firewall.
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I'm glade you finally got together with out to much restriction on the header. I guess it's true where there is a will there is a way. BIG THUMBS UP TO YOU. Mike
 
Now that your going I have a question for you or anyone who reads this. I'm having a lot of problems finding a 8.75 rear that fits my 66 barracuda if you or any body else has any leads on one I would like to hear where I can buy one. I will rebuild it so I don't need a new one just one that will fit. Any ideas please let me know. Mike
 
I just wanted you to know, I feel your pain hahaha ‘67 Barracuda, factory V8, motor has never been out. Going on vacation with my family this weekend, and I’ll get back to it next week. I’m going to read through this thread again, and if you have any tips not already mentioned, I’d appreciate them.

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MidnightSwinger said:
I just wanted you to know, I feel your pain hahaha ‘67 Barracuda, factory V8, motor has never been out. Going on vacation with my family this weekend, and I’ll get back to it next week. I’m going to read through this thread again, and if you have any tips not already mentioned, I’d appreciate them.

View attachment 1716256649

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You can cut the column tube back to help some with that but that means you're going to be taking the column out and apart.

Is it too late to back out and go back to manifolds? LOL.

That reminds me at one time I had a 67 Dart GT 273 with headers on it, and it seems like they were big tubes. I need to search those photos out to see what was done there.
 
I just did the same Doug’s headers on my B Body 67 Belvedere. Power steering 4 spd, for was perfect. I could see how be extra tight for an A body.
 
Uncle Bob said:
You can cut the column tube back to help some with that but that means you're going to be taking the column out and apart.

Is it too late to back out and go back to manifolds? LOL.

That reminds me at one time I had a 67 Dart GT 273 with headers on it, and it seems like they were big tubes. I need to search those photos out to see what was done there.
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I got mine used, from a member on the site for a good deal. My first thought when they were hitting after I dropped, the jack was your thread, and then I wonder if someone would want to trade for some 340 manifold?!?!? lol
 
Super-Cuda said:
Yup!

The welds are ****, especially around the steering box mount. Get in a stock mopar, have someone crank the steering wheel hard left or right and look at the steering box.

You can actually see the deflection happening!
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Funny the guy I had fix my factory welds was a pot smoking hippy in his 60s he is a great welder though
 
Icetech said:
yeah we used to get like the super cheap $69 hedmans and **** from local stores and they were a battle Or blackjack...
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I've got Alumacoat Blackjacks on my 273. They went in like a dream. Only issue is 1 DS pipe sits a little low. [Watch for speedbumps & manhole covers]
 
My headers fit fine on my 66 barracuda 360 magnum. My problem is finding a drive shaft to fit the 8.75 rear and the 727 tranny. If anybody out there knows of one or has one please let me know. The pinion in my old rear is 30 spline and the new one is 9 or 10 spline. I haven't counted the new pinion yet. Any thoughts out there would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Everybody keeps telling me to yank the slant and drop a nasty small block in it. Not with those header issues. Probably easier to use fender well headers?
 
To solve the problem he should have taken out the rag link and put in a universal joint. Not all problems have a quick fix.
 
ESP47 said:
Damn, was hoping you found a solution with the headers. I have Dougs installed and am about to attempt to install the column in a couple weeks.

Glad you found an overall solution for yourself. Sometimes it's best just to do what it takes to get it back on the road.
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My car is original/low mile and I didn’t want to cut the steering column tube. If you are willing to make a few minor mods I’m sure it’ll work out.
 
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