drive shaft question

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oldwirebender

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I removed the drive shaft from my '65 Barracuda and found out there is a rubber boot on the front u-joint that is broken. I haven't disassembled it yet, but being a relative Mopar Newbie, is this called a u-joint, a cv joint, or what? And also, can I get this at my local NAPA store, or is there somewhere else?

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It's called a trunion (sp.) preceded the Constant Velocity joint. Not sure if Napa can get you the boot so you can seal it again and add lube.
 
You can lose that old stuff... Napa ain't getting you that...

You'll need to change parts of the shaft and add a stub slip, or if this is at the rear diff you could lose that comp flange and make a new shaft...
 
I improvised on my Valiant with a 98 neon inner cv joint boot. This fix can be done with driveshaft on car. Leave original larger boot section(facing trans) & remove smaller original section facing rearward. Split boot down the middle & use an awl to poke holes on each side in sections between folds. Slip Neon boot over whats left of existing setup. Use plastic electrical ties to run thru holes between folds and secure. Secure over what is left of original boot on trans side with clamp. Remove what is left of original boot facing rearward and secure new boot with clamp. You may have to trim boot a little on rearward side. This fix has lasted for about 5000 miles on my setup. Here are some pictures of driveshaft before install.

Oldschoolcuda

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Thanks for the links Oklacarcollecto. I ordered a new boot. I got it this week, but I need some advice on how to disassemble. It looks like it is pressed together. Does anybody know how to replace this boot?
 
Here is the procedure from the Chrysler Manual:
Disassembly
1) Straighten the tabs on the focer and remove the cover and gasket. Push the body back and remove the buttons, springs, ball and rollers and washers from both ends of the trunnion pin.
2) Remove the cover clamps and polished jute breather located between the shaft and the rear end of the cover. Save the breather.
3) Clean and examine the trunnion pin and raceways in the body for excessive wear. If wear is excessive, replace the body. If either part is to be replaced, use hydraulic press and Installing and Removing Jig C-3567 on all eight cylinder models, except those with 273 cubic inch engines. On models with 273 cubic inch and six-cylinder engines, use Jig C-3313.
Cleaning and Inspection.1) Clean all the parts in suitable solvent. If the trunnion pin, body or dust cover have not been removed, make sure that the body and cover are clean inside as well as outside.
Assembly.
1) When the trunnion pin and body have not been removed, a new dust cover can be installed, after coating all parts with Universal Joint Grease. Without using tools, stretch the cover over the pin and work it by hand through the body into position on the shaft.
2) If the trunnion pin is removed, install it or a new pin in the propeller shart, using a hydraulic press and the correct jig, as specified above. The pin is properly centered when the press ram contacts the spacer portion of the jig.
3) Pack the balls and rollers with Universal Joint Grease, NLGI Grade 2. Install a thrust washer, ball and rollers, button spring and centering button on the each end of the trunnion pin.
4) Position the dust cover and the jute breather on the propeller shaft with the jute breather parallel to the shaft and extending one=-half inch outside the small end of the cover. Install and tighten the small clamp. Position the dust cover on the body and install and tighten the large clamp.
5) Lubricate the joint with two ounces of Universal Joint Grease NLGI Grade 2, applying it evenly in both raceways, one-half back of the trunnion pin and one-half between the pin and cover.
NOTE: Two ounces of lubricant would be about 1/2 inch deep if placed on the grease cover. Do not use more than the specified amount and do not place lubricant in the dust cover.
6) Install a new gasket on the cover and position the cover and gasket on the body with the tabs in the grooves in the body. Bend the tabs to secure the cover to the body.
If you need Illustrations let me know so I can scan them for you. Good luck!
Guy
 
According to those instructions, the boot can be worked into place without removing the pin. I tried that once, it just seemed awfully tight. I'll grease it up good and try it again tomorrow.
Jim
 
Yes Jim,
That is what the factory says to do, I am sure you will have your ride back on the road in no time and sorry about the spelling errors on the instructions.
Guy
 
I went the $$route and changed to a newer style 833. No Trunion. Thats just me and I can afford that (NOT):-D
 
The old 318 and trans are out of the car right now. The trans is being rebuilt an I have a fresh 360 ready to go in the 318's place. I plan on getting a 8.75 rear in the future. I figure that would be a good time to address the drive shaft issues. I just want to patch this one up and get it going. I'm beginning to think that when I do anything with this car I should choose the highest dollar option and be done with it! I think I would be money ahead!:munky2:
 
If you press that pin wrong.... like i have seen many, many people do over the years.... You'll be getting the better shaft like 65vart has
 
I found a machine shop in Danville IL that was very familiar with this type of conversion. The owner said when his dad owned the shop, he had him doing these left and right. He said he hasn't done one for a while. I told him I probably have the last one left! He got a good laugh out of that. I am going to get it to him next Tuesday. Thanks for all of your information and opinions.
Jim
 
Thanks for the links Oklacarcollecto. I ordered a new boot. I got it this week, but I need some advice on how to disassemble. It looks like it is pressed together. Does anybody know how to replace this boot?

You are very welcome.

I found a machine shop in Danville IL that was very familiar with this type of conversion. The owner said when his dad owned the shop, he had him doing these left and right. He said he hasn't done one for a while. I told him I probably have the last one left! He got a good laugh out of that. I am going to get it to him next Tuesday. Thanks for all of your information and opinions.
Jim

That sounds like a good plan. Let us know when he gets it done.
 
The boots are readily available, as are the complete rebuild kits for this pre-'66 ball-and-trunnion front U-joint -- the boot is not year-specific -- from Andy Bernbaum (he officially supports Mopars only thru '62, but the joint kit and boot listed for '60-'62 Valiant suits all pre-'66 A-bodies). But in the long run, conversion to a cross-and-roller front U-joint is definitely the way to go. It's a totally standard procedure any decent driveshaft shop can do; see here.

The Neon boot make-work is a clever fix!
 
Got my driveshaft back today. Machinist said the old driveshaft was slightly twisted, so I got a brand new one. Considering the labor to straighten the old one, it was a better way to go.

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