Have you tried turning the DS, 180* in the pinion yoke? Invert the current cap positions to other side.
Here's a good video. I have been told by people I trust that pinion shaft angle 2-3 degrees down (from the engine/trans shaft center line) is good for a street mopar, and 4 degrees down is good for a street/strip mopar that has the front spring section stiffened, like with clamped front leafs or caltracs. I get confused when measuring the drive shaft angles and then doing all adding and subtracting, so I got a magnetic digital angle guage from Harbor Freight. Zero the guage at the transmission output and then it will read the degrees difference at the pinion yoke. I disconnected the drive shaft to get access. In the horizontal direction, have you measured the thrust angle?I have a cyclic vibration in a totally new drivetrain that I would usually associate with a problem in driveshaft angles. If I put the car on a lift and adjust things so that the transmission pan rail is flat, the angle of the 8 3/4 rear chunk as measured at the mounting pads for the pinion snubber is 3 degrees down. This is NOT a RACE CAR. The priority is to have a smooth ride on the highway. Is 3 degrees enough to cause this? Should I be striving for them both to be 0 degrees (parallel).
If so, can anybody suggest a source for angle shims for the spring pads?
I've tried my friend. It just ain't sinkin in. lolMeasure off the bottom of the trans tail shaft housing. Whatever it is up or down u need the pinion to be -3*to -5* degrees down. So if the trans is -2* down u need the pinion angle to be at least-3* down from the trans angle. So the pinion will need to be -5* down. Kim
It’s not what they want to hear so it falls on deaf ears. KimI've tried my friend. It just ain't sinkin in. lol
Well, the biggest thing.....and I think you'll agree is, it's kinda like timing. Not one setting works for every vehicle. It's totally dependent on what you're doing. That said, the 5 degree nose down gets you in the ballpark real quick most times.It’s not what they want to hear so it falls on deaf ears. Kim
Thank you, this is a great idea! Now that you pointed it out, it seems obvious, but I haven't heard of it before. I have been thiinking about how to measure side angle, and this solves that problem, and it's a lot easier than measuring up/down angle at the damper than at the trans output.It's a good place to measure up/down and side angle. I do it every time I install an engine.
No, you're not listening or understanding, but then, no one can tell you a damn thing, because you already know it all.He's not listening because you guys are wrong. If both front and rear yoke angles are down; you'll have a vibration unless the axle is twisted upwards in the front; under acceleration; at which time the yokes would be parallel, but just at a crusiing speed, the yokes are not parallel. Listening?
Here's a good video. I have been told by people I trust that pinion shaft angle 2-3 degrees down (from the engine/trans shaft center line) is good for a street mopar, and 4 degrees down is good for a street/strip mopar that has the front spring section stiffened, like with clamped front leafs or caltracs. I get confused when measuring the drive shaft angles and then doing all adding and subtracting, so I got a magnetic digital angle guage from Harbor Freight. Zero the guage at the transmission output and then it will read the degrees difference at the pinion yoke. I disconnected the drive shaft to get access. In the horizontal direction, have you measured the thrust angle?
Lots of places sell axle angle shims, including Mancini, Calvert, Holley, and Summit, and as mentioned previously Dr. Diff. In fact, Cass would be the very first person I would contact if I had a vibration problem like yours. [email protected]
That's true, it does. What it does not show however, is how the suspension loads and changes the u joint working angles. Without that added into the equation, you cannot set the angle correctly. Every bit of this is covered in the MP chassis and suspension manual. I just don't get why some people (not you) want to say their methods are incorrect, because they are not. They're spot on.This shows the problems when the two angles are not the same, you get vibrations. The joint speeds up and down going the full revolution on an angle so if one joint is changing speed and the other is not quite the same angle it’s a pull and push affair, vibration. Over angled joints absorb HP like crazy.
Oldmanmopar posted up the MP section on driveshaft angles in another thread, and Still everyone had their way and disregarded the info. lolThat's true, it does. What it does not show however, is how the suspension loads and changes the u joint working angles. Without that added into the equation, you cannot set the angle correctly. Every bit of this is covered in the MP chassis and suspension manual. I just don't get why some people (not you) want to say their methods are incorrect, because they are not. They're spot on.
I saw that. It's amazing how many people will claim Larry Shepard and company don't know what they're doing. LOLOldmanmopar posted up the MP section on driveshaft angles in another thread, and Still everyone had their way and disregarded the info. lol
Way To much info out there and a lot is wrong. Lead a horse to water but you can’t make him drink. Don’t we see this in everything today?I saw that. It's amazing how many people will claim Larry Shepard and company don't know what they're doing. LOL
Purdy much, yup.Way To much info out there and a lot is wrong. Lead a horse to water but you can’t make him drink. Don’t we see this in everything today?
When you set your pinion at 5 deg. what was the angle at the crankshaft centerline?That's true, it does. What it does not show however, is how the suspension loads and changes the u joint working angles. Without that added into the equation, you cannot set the angle correctly. Every bit of this is covered in the MP chassis and suspension manual. I just don't get why some people (not you) want to say their methods are incorrect, because they are not. They're spot on.
If you're asking me, my engine/trans is 2° down , ss springs are normally 5° down with factory pad angle, mine have shims tipping the nose down two more degrees.When you set your pinion at 5 deg. what was the angle at the crankshaft centerline?
Should be 2- 4 degs at the most for a street car.When you set your pinion at 5 deg. what was the angle at the crankshaft centerline?
**** if I know. I haven't measured it yet. The 9" swap has yet to be done. Setting the pinion at 5 degrees is how I've done it for forty years and I've always been damn close.......right on the money a few times. Everybody's scared of 5 degrees initial pinion angle, but they fail to realize, that backs off a hair when you install the rear end on the leaf springs.When you set your pinion at 5 deg. what was the angle at the crankshaft centerline?