Driveshaft U joint question.

[TrailBeast]

I am going to be putting an A500 Trans in my car and am going to use the A500 driveline and shorten it.
But for the time being I need to retain the 7.25 rear end until I can get around to swapping it out for an 8.25.
Do I have this right that I need Napa part number 347 or TRW 20226 to go from the bigger driveline and joints to the 7.25 yoke?
This would be 7290 size in the driveline and 7160 size in the yoke on the rear end, correct?

Then when I do swap rear ends I can shorten the driveline again for the 8.25 and go to the full size joint instead of the conversion joint.

Sound reasonable?

Thanks

 

[fishy68]

I haven't used one myself but according to this page

http://www.planethoustonamx.com/main/chrysler_8_34_rearends.htm

you are correct. The U-joints are about half way down the page

 

[TrailBeast]

Sweet, thanks Tracy.
I did my research before I asked but I just wanted to verify it with solid info.
Thanks for the solid info.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

7260 to 7290 yes the 347 is the one you need.

 

[TrailBeast]

7260 to 7290 yes the 347 is the one you need.

Thank you Roy.
This is going to happen pretty fast once all the parts get here, and actually I'm putting the trans in ASAP behind the running 318 so I can get it all settled before the Mag goes in.

I thought about doing both at the same time, but I know myself and I would get in a hurry to get it all together.
I'll be better off having the trans settled and then unbolt it and swap blocks a little later, and the motor parts won't be here for a few more days anyway and it'll still need to be assembled.
I don't want to wait that long to drive the car again.
My pee pee might turn black and fall off if I have to wait weeks just to have it driving again.

 

[fishy68]

Glad to help Greg. Good luck with the project

 

[TrailBeast]

Ujoint on it's way.

I hate my car being down, but all the new stuff for the car is worth the wait.
I got the OD and converter lockup connector wired and all the piping stuff for the plumbing for it today, but still have to order the controller switch kit for it, and I'm going to go ahead and get the adjustable vacuum switch for it also.
I want all of it fully automatic except for having a switch to turn off converter lockup completely if I want.
That will get wired just like the trucks converter lockup is and I'll even use the exact switch the Ram trucks have on the dash to turn it off or on with.
When the switch is on it will go into to lockup automatically as normal, but with the swich off it will only shift 1234, and no lockup .