Dual field alternator wiring

[cosgig]

OK, after changing the 66 over to electronic ignition a couple years ago, I finally decided to make the change to the newer style dual field alternator. I already had changed the voltage regulator to the new style but the alternator was still the single field style. In my book it says to run the second field wire to the ignition/on wire of the new regulator, ie.. the blue wire. In the book it says that you can hook up the field wires to either terminal on the alternator, which I did, but when I cranked the car over it would not start. If I unhooked the added field wire the car would start but not charge. If I tried to hook it back up while the car was running, it would kill the car. So I switched the field wires at the alternator and voila, charging and starting.

My question?? What gives with this?? How could just switching the field terminals at the alternator make the car not start, and what's with the article stating... " Which terminal goes to which post??. Actually, it doesn't matter". In the end I got it all figured out and done, but I don't like the mis-information and would welcome anyone with an explanation for this. Thanks, Geof

 

[mullinax95]

When I did mine I bought the higher amp alternator and the later model voltage regulator and followed Chrysler's wiring diagram. I have the more amps (that's reason I did it) without any troubles. No more dimming headlights at idle. The later model alternator has two fields and has a square back side. But what happened in your case is very strange.

 

[RedFish]

If its working properly now there is propably some difference in the technology used in todays regulator or altenater. If they can find a less expensive way to do something, they'll do change it and claim its improved.
I have shop manual that say blow away brake dust with compressed air. LOL

 

[cudajim]

OK, after changing the 66 over to electronic ignition a couple years ago, I finally decided to make the change to the newer style dual field alternator. I already had changed the voltage regulator to the new style but the alternator was still the single field style. In my book it says to run the second field wire to the ignition/on wire of the new regulator, ie.. the blue wire. In the book it says that you can hook up the field wires to either terminal on the alternator, which I did, but when I cranked the car over it would not start. If I unhooked the added field wire the car would start but not charge. If I tried to hook it back up while the car was running, it would kill the car. So I switched the field wires at the alternator and voila, charging and starting.

My question?? What gives with this?? How could just switching the field terminals at the alternator make the car not start, and what's with the article stating... " Which terminal goes to which post??. Actually, it doesn't matter". In the end I got it all figured out and done, but I don't like the mis-information and would welcome anyone with an explanation for this. Thanks, Geof

Just to let you know, both styles of alternators have only one field winding. The older ones simply grounded one end internally and regulated the positive end with either a mechanical or solid state regulator. The newer style alternators should be hooked up to the positive supply (from ignition) at one end and the negative side is regulated with a newer style regulator. There are numerous examples of schematics on this blog for more info.


BTW - Pickney is not far from my old stomping grounds - Commerce Lake, near Walled lake, Mi.

 

[dgc333]

Cosgig, your post is confusing! You state you had already changed to the new style regulator (one with triangular plug) but the new style regulator switches the field to ground and the old style switches power to the field. You car would not have charged with the new style regulator and the old style single field terminal alternator.

With the new style alternator there are three terminals one for the output and two flat spade connectors. The spade connectors are attached to opposite ends of the field windings. If you had wires hooked up to those terminals one way and the car won't run then switched them and it did, you have something wrong in your wiring some where. Because an alternator generates AC current there is no polarity on the field windings so it doesn't make any difference which terminal the one with power and the one grounded through the regulator are connected to.

Even though you got it working I would not stop trouble shooting the problem because for sure it will come back and bite you at the most inopportune time.

 

[cosgig]

Well dgc333, you are correct stating that the car was not charging with the single field and the new regulator. It died last year at an event I went to, which prompted my change to the newer alternator. It took forever to drain the battery enough for it not to crank because I have no load on the battery at all, except when using the brakes or turn signals. This car never gets driven at night, never run the heat, wipers or any power drains. I charged the battery last year at the event and it took until 2 weeks ago to drain it enough to not crank. I sure wish I had someone around here that really knows chrysler wiring, I'm pretty good at things but this has me stumped. Thanks for chiming in and I'll keep looking. FYI, when i say it's charging now, this is what it is doing. When it is at idle, the guage is right in the middle. Under cruise speed or acceleration the needle goes to the high side of 1/2 way between the middle and the + side. If it's at idle and I step on the brakes, the needle slightly discharges. Still not right?? Yea, I know!! If you got any insight to this, I'd welcome your input as to where to look. Thanks, Geof