Dual quad info

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Ok so trying to adjust fast idle linkage. Not the screw.... the linkage as per Eddy instructions... see pics/instructions, they leave out identifying rod "D" where adjustment is made!!
Anyone know which one to bend? The vertical one on side of carb, or the one on top connected to choke flap?
Thanks
Steve

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So got a Lokar throttle cable. Trying to mock up where it connects to arm/bracket. A little too close for comfort to 5/16 jam nut that secures heimjoint to Eddy. I think theres room on bracket of carb itself to drill 1/4" hole. Trying to keep it mounted higher on "fulcrum" to make the pull easier on cable. I may have to grind Eddy adapter slightly. I'm pointing at mount spot in last pic.

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Almost there, had to mock up a bracket/adapter to move the cable mount more in line with carb. I should have drilled hole in carb bracket 1/16 higher. Just barely touches hi idle screw. Tight spaces for moving pieces is a pain. Chrome bracket needs a tab welded on(new lokars have this). This one must be older, no big deal. The tab keeps the carb mount bracket from moving/spinning when giving it fuel.
So weld that tab and then onto leaky fuel fittings. I've dbl brake flares a hundred times no issues. Shitty 5/16 dbl flare is costing me $ lol(nicop line)

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Is that red wrinkle paint on the breather? Looks great, love the custom badges too!
Wow, don't know how I missed this. Yes, valve covers, air cleaner, and breathers are red wrinkle paint. Not many people catch the badges.
Looks like you're making a lot of headway! I don't know your engine specs but mine has some shake to it at idle like in your video and and it idles around 900 RPM, but I'm running a Hughes Whiplash cam. I think you'll enjoy it once it's all dialed in.
 
Got Lokar throttle cable installed. Had to do some minor mods to make it work, but seems to work great.
While tweaking/setting timing I noticed an oil leak at rear of intake on China rail. I was a little shy on RTV :BangHead:
Cuda fires right off and seems to run good(in park anyway lol)
I was hoping to take for test drive then discovered oil leak.... no 1243 gaskets on hand so I'll order some.
Still running rich as f**k, but wanted to get timing nailed down 1st. Also looking for another tach for verification.
One tach says its idling at 500...seems low?
Idling in park, then putting in gear the rpm doesnt drop "much", maybe 30-40 rpm.
Heres readings so far with va unhooked and plugged
IDLE, 500 rpm, 17*, Mani vac 11-12"
1000 rpm, 21*, 15" vac
1500 rpm, 25*, 17.8"
2000 rpm, 28*, 18"
2500 rpm, 30*, 18"
3000 rpm, 31*, 17.5"??
4000 rpm, 38*
4100 rpm, 40*

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Well, I'll call it a win, other than I've gotta replace intake gasket(shop floor tells the tale). Inital at approx 17*(bumped up on drive) and havent rechecked it yet.
Still tweaking to do, running very rich.
Plug wires are laying on linkage too.
Cant stand the look of the mess of wires/hoses...
Thanks all!
https://youtu.be/LKLT5xzND64


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Thanks Troy. Trans feels exactly the same as with single 4bl. So I'm hoping so, been set that way for a few years now. I will double check it again with FSM instructions.
I think I'll take some new readings, see where I'm at, pull plugs and clean(or replace) to start with a blank slate.
Then try to lean it out if possible.
Sounds good Steve. Have you got the transmission dialed in?
 
Steve, one last thing to check before pulling that manifold - oil pressure switch or oil pressure sender or line at the back of the manifold. The seal for the manifold should be under negative pressure if your PCV system is working well, but that oil fitting is under pressure and can pass a lot of oil right in the same place. I have made this assumption before, resealed the manifold, just to find it still leaking - tightened the fitting and the leak was gone...
 
Thanks Mike, it's definitely intake. There may be some from oil psi line fitting, but the pic in my reply above shows a .005" feeler gauge slid under the intake. Leaking way more oil than before the intake swap also.
Thanks!
Steve, one last thing to check before pulling that manifold - oil pressure switch or oil pressure sender or line at the back of the manifold. The seal for the manifold should be under negative pressure if your PCV system is working well, but that oil fitting is under pressure and can pass a lot of oil right in the same place. I have made this assumption before, resealed the manifold, just to find it still leaking - tightened the fitting and the leak was gone...
 
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