Dual quad info

[4spdragtop]

Thanks, damn those are pricey! The cleaners can fit either the Carters or Eddy, I made an adapter for oem 273 cleaner that works great.
Heres a link to a guy that made his own feed lines from Nicop.

I found these air cleaners from Speedway (and other sources) for the in-line DQ set up that I'm working on.

http://[URL]https://www.speedwaymot...Quad-Air-Cleaners-5-1-8-Inch-Base,404388.html

[/URL]

They have them for the early smaller throat carbs too.

 

[4spdragtop]

Well looks like Lokar might be the way to go with this contraption. Throttle cable is way too long. OEM bracket is no go, so oem kickdown is no go also...dammit. Fuel line to move/modify obviously.
Any idea if stock mech fuel pump is sufficient?
Thanks
Steve

 

[autopar3000]

Post #70.
I think it is a benefit to have the intake port openings slightly smaller. Helps prevent reversion & mismatch the other way, which would be detrimental.
I remember when Edel first released the Tarantula single plane intakes, the instruction sheet said NOT to enlarge the port openings.

Makes sense to me, and the mixture velocity should still be high since most of the travel is in the tight confines of the intake runners, but probably choked a bit because of the smaller runners. But I'm not an engine builder, maybe an engine assembler at best!

 

[PA Dodger]

Hi performance mechanical fuel pump works fine. I think a stock pump should be OK. You'll need a regulator to keep the pressure in check, Eddys seem to be sensitive to too much pressure. The Lokar throttle cable, kickdown cable and mounting bracket saves a lot of headaches.
My pic from back on page 2.

 

[4spdragtop]

Not much progress, but acquiring some tidbits.
Used a carb stud(still needs work) for linkage on rear carb.

 

[str12-340]

remember that the distance from the throttle (butterfly) shaft to where the cable is attached in the secondary carb should be 1/3 the distance from throttle shaft to where the cable is attached in the primary carb so it opens 3 times as fast when it does open.

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks, I understand what you're saying but trying to figure out how to make it happen lol.
You say cable, but do you mean linkage?

remember that the distance from the throttle (butterfly) shaft to where the cable is attached in the secondary carb should be 1/3 the distance from throttle shaft to where the cable is attached in the primary carb so it opens 3 times as fast when it does open.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I still have this Mr. Gasket dual quad linkage new in the blister pack if you are interested in it. It will go 1:1 or progressive, either way.
LINKAGE

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks Rob, gonna try and get what I have sorted out.

 

[str12-340]

I'm having trouble expressing this clearly.
As always I hope pictures will help:
This is what I mean when I say throttle stud:

This is what I mean when I say throttle cable:

and this is what I mean when I say throttle shaft ( I am pointing at the end of the shaft). The throttle shaft goes through the butterflys in the bottom of the carb. Unfortunately once you put the chrysler throttle linkage adapter on the carb it is hard to see the end of the throttle shaft:

Typically the primary carb uses the factory location for the throttle stud that carries the accelerator cable and the kickdown linkage. The secondary carb starts to open when the primary carb is 2/3rds of the way to WOT and opens 3 times as fast so that they are both wide open at the same time. To accomplish this, the throttle stud on the secondary carb throttle bracket needs to be attached at a location that is 1/3rd the distance from the throttle shaft to the throttle stud as compared to the primary carb. That way the same distance of travel of the throttle cable produces 3 times as much rotation of the throttle shaft. If I were you, I would get 2 chrysler throttle brackets from Edelbrock so that everything lines upon the two carbs.

Clear as mud, right?

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks, that helps a LOT! Your explanation makes sense with pics. Right now I'm using an Eddy as primary and orig Carter 4295 for mockup. The "hookups" are slightly different, but I do have another Eddy with choke on the way.
I'll chk for another adapter also.
Thanks again much appreciated

I'm having trouble expressing this clearly.
As always I hope pictures will help:
This is what I mean when I say throttle stud:
View attachment 1716068570


This is what I mean when I say throttle cable:
View attachment 1716068571

and this is what I mean when I say throttle shaft ( I am pointing at the end of the shaft). The throttle shaft goes through the butterflys in the bottom of the carb. Unfortunately once you put the chrysler throttle linkage adapter on the carb it is hard to see the end of the throttle shaft:
View attachment 1716068572

Typically the primary carb uses the factory location for the throttle stud that carries the accelerator cable and the kickdown linkage. The secondary carb starts to open when the primary carb is 2/3rds of the way to WOT and opens 3 times as fast so that they are both wide open at the same time. To accomplish this, the throttle stud on the secondary carb throttle bracket needs to be attached at a location that is 1/3rd the distance from the throttle shaft to the throttle stud as compared to the primary carb. That way the same distance of travel of the throttle cable produces 3 times as much rotation of the throttle shaft. If I were you, I would get 2 chrysler throttle brackets from Edelbrock so that everything lines upon the two carbs.

Clear as mud, right?

 

[4spdragtop]

Progress, might not look like much, but I'm thinking I see the light with the trans kickdown lol.
Not sure why but the Offy had recesses machined into the mount holes, so I double stacked(for now) 2 washers to "sturdy" the bracket. Altho the throttle cable wont be mounted in it, still gotta finger that out.
So kickdown....I dont like the looks of cables, altho they work pretty good, so I figured I'd try to replicate the the factory threaded rod. I already had 5/16 bar stock, so it's worth a shot.
With rear carb more rearward on DQ compared to single, I shortened the rod a bit, and threaded to 5/16 UNF.
The carb base on DQ is also approx 1/4" higher, so once the other Eddy arrives I'll tweak/cobble some more.

 

[4spdragtop]

Some more "progress". Took measurements of throttle cable bracket differences of Ld4B vs DQ.
LD4B carb stud where cable slides on to the rear of factory 4bl clamp, 6 1/4" approx horizontally/DQ is 3".
Then measured vertically straight up and down from carb stud to top of cable clamp. LD4B is 2"/DQ is 1 3/4".
Not much difference vertically, but being 3" shorter on DQ means finding a throttle cable 3-4" shorter.
Also "welded"/hacked a washer onto homemade kickdown arm. Crude yes, effective?? Maybe.

 

[4spdragtop]

Up to Nigels to pickup some trinkets. Struck out on carb fittings but scored used 2 bl throttle bracket, rear drums, rear fb ws stainless(missing top ds piece), Eddy carb adapter and 2 cans of MP red engine paint!(last 2).
Heated up and bent the 2blthrottle bracket clamp up. Mocked up diy kickdown, the bottle bracket and cable. Cable is approx 2.5" too long.
Not a lot of progress but I got some parts!
Eager to get 2nd Eddy carb!
So all that's needed is carb fuel fittings(Troy has a pair lined up for me).
Shorter throttle cable
Air filter setup hmmm
Thanks
Steve

 

[str12-340]

Can't you wind that cable around back there and "waste" 2 1/2 inches? what matters is where the metal piece is in the clamp and the travel of the cable out the end of the metal piece.

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks pretty stiff and dont want to put cable under a lot of stress but I'll give it a try.

Can't you wind that cable around back there and "waste" 2 1/2 inches? what matters is where the metal piece is in the clamp and the travel of the cable out the end of the metal piece.

 

[str12-340]

Try going down from the from the grommet in the firewall and then back up to the throttle bracket. My interest here is not all altruistic - I have a D-66 that I want to install on a 318 next year so watching your work saves me doing all the trial and error on my own

 

[4spdragtop]

No go, too stiff to get a tight enough circle to lose 2.5"

Can't you wind that cable around back there and "waste" 2 1/2 inches? what matters is where the metal piece is in the clamp and the travel of the cable out the end of the metal piece.

 

[4spdragtop]

Bit by bit...got the primary carb from Jim Ward with help from Todd, S'cuder. And advice from Str12340.
I measured(ballpark) the throttle shaft to car stud, 1.2", so 1/3 of that is 0.4.
Measured that on front carb and drilled 3/16 hole. Machine screw and washers and I think I've got it!
I'll enlarge the 3/16" hole so the front carb stud is sturdier. May also put a "sleeve" of some sort over the threaded part of front stud.

 

[str12-340]

so do they both come wide open at the same time???

 

[4spdragtop]

Hope the video makes sense

so do they both come wide open at the same time???

 

[str12-340]

Congrats!!! I'll be copying this on my D-66. Hope to see it in action at Moparfest (I've got my registration and hotel all set up). You goin' down to the Mopar Nats in Columbus?

PS: whats the source for the cable?

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks, glad yer all setup for Mfest. Not sure which engine will be in it then, but I will be there.
Frank/Mr Sinister replied to my want ad, his cable is 17/17.5". I've found some new ones, but around $100 lol.

Congrats!!! I'll be copying this on my D-66. Hope to see it in action at Moparfest (I've got my registration and hotel all set up). You goin' down to the Mopar Nats in Columbus?

PS: whats the source for the cable?

 

[4spdragtop]

Ok, so into setting up the Eddy 1405/1406.
From what I watched(video below), in a progressive setup he recommends setting rear carb (1406)slightly richer. As the fuel has to also reach front 4 intake ports. Should the 2ndary jets also be richened?
Front carb(1405) should be leaned somewhat. Should I also lean 2ndary jets as well.
I realize there will be trial and error, but 1405 needs jets anyway, so would like to get "proper" ones while I'm there.
Thanks all

 

[str12-340]

secondaries basically open at the same time as the entire front carb. Chances are that you aren't going to be running the car with the throttle 2/3rds to 7/8ths open except on your way to WOT. You're either driving along or the pedal is on the floor so the transition from 2/3rds open and WOT is momentary. Edelbrock sell a pairs of carbs for progressive dual quads. I know the primary is a 1903 and I think the secondary carb is 1904. If you go to Edelbrock's web site you can get to "Edelbrock Carburetor Installation Instructions" and there's a chart with the factory set up for every one of their carbs. OOPS the 1903 and 1904 are AVS. You want the Performer dual quad numbers which is their AFB carbs.