Progressive may be the ticket.
Dual quads versus big hammer!!!...
- Thread starter j par
- Start date
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I thought it was a better solution than the hammer...
I thought he was happy with Haggerty
j par
Well-hung Member
Yes and the reason I said that was because of the way the secondary doors did snap open when I had it disconnected. I have the stuff and obviously the knowledge to make it happen... I think if I quite possibly just warm the car up and disconnect the linkage and run it off the back carb for a minute see if it takes away the hesitation..
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
What is the rear end ratio tire size and is it an automatic or 4-speed I was also curious about the cubic inch of your motor sorry if I missed it in an earlier post. that is a lot of carburetion with a 456 gear you probably would have no hesitation just a guess. I feel carburetors with air doors such as avs would greatly benefit the control CFM when the secondary circuit is opened. If you run it just with the primary circuits no secondary circuits do you still have the hesitation?
j par
Well-hung Member
355 in the rear end, 28 inch tall tires, four Speed, 410 Stroker.. 238-248 duration cam...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
What was the idle speed for that idle vacuum??
Keep working with it.
It may be either getting on the mains too late or, you need to get the metering rods out of the jet quicker.
How to accomplish this with those carbs I can't say. But it can be done.
Well, you change the set up spring to get the metering rods up quicker.
If you can drive it, see what the vacuum is at a cruise. That would be interesting.
Keep working with it.
It may be either getting on the mains too late or, you need to get the metering rods out of the jet quicker.
How to accomplish this with those carbs I can't say. But it can be done.
Well, you change the set up spring to get the metering rods up quicker.
If you can drive it, see what the vacuum is at a cruise. That would be interesting.
j par
Well-hung Member
900 idle speed..
I've been paying way too much damn attention to that O2 sensor I'm trying to get the idol up to 14 2 to 14 7.. I've been going softer Springs and getting no change, so tomorrow I'll try stronger Springs and trying to get those metering rods out of the Jets...
I'm going to recalibrate and try the O2 sensor with that new cheap Amazon sensor and try the old one as well and if that doesn't work I'm just going to buy the new Bosch one.. It use to work and it was spot-on... Everything I'm reading on tuning these highly recommending one. And that's pretty much what work for me to get the Edelbrocks sorted out..
j par
Well-hung Member
If I change the carbs I'll just put the Edelbrocks back on.. Changing to a third set is out of the question... Giving a shout out to your favorite carb ain't helpin...
abdywgn
dismantler
wasn't really trying to help...just share in the fun
j par
Well-hung Member
Unruly carburetor problems aren't fun..
Cheap 02 sensors have their place. The trash bin. Even computer controlled cars have problems with them. Kim
no room for fun on his threads.... It's all serious business
Save it for "other people's threads"...
j par
Well-hung Member
on your threads you never trying to figure out anything out because you already know everything... As you put it you never have tuning problems...no room for fun on his threads.... It's all serious business
j par
Well-hung Member
Yeah I'm going to send this Amazon junk back and go get a Bosch one and replace it and be done..
j par
Well-hung Member
I was able to talk to somebody from lwa performance this morning.. you know the people who put the holes in the back doors LOL.. I actually talked to one of the engine builders not the tuners but he went over what he sees the tuning Guru do in the dino room.. he to suggested getting the new sensor and then calling back later possibly in talking to another guy who does the tuning... He was offering quite possibly too much pump shot and should maybe go the other way... I need to give the larger step up Springs a try as well though...
Good luck 2 ya!!! Kim
j par
Well-hung Member
Also one of the things that the engine builder for lwa said was mixing the race fuel in there makes the timing strap and plugs quite hard to read sometimes...
Again putting in another vote for the new AF gauge sensor..
I want to get the tune straightened out and have the correct air fuel ratio and then look for the hesitation. I don't want tune everything way out of whack trying to get rid of the hesitation...
Again putting in another vote for the new AF gauge sensor..
I want to get the tune straightened out and have the correct air fuel ratio and then look for the hesitation. I don't want tune everything way out of whack trying to get rid of the hesitation...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Yeah, I forgot to mention that I did some research and the reason why I was questioning what the ground strap looked like was that mix of race fuel.
I wouldn't worry about that too much though. At 25% as long as you know what you are looking at, it's not an issue.
I took some notes from the conversation I had, but most of it went directly over my head. I'll attempt to distill down what I was told.
What I was told happens when you mix race fuel with pump gas there is never the exact same mix of pump gas/race fuel in any cylinder at any given time.
Soooooo, when you see the scaling on the ground wire, that is different ratios of race fuel in the cylinder relative to pump gas at any given time.
That's my simple explanation of what I found.
So I wouldn't be too concerned about that.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I’ll acknowledge right now this post will be of no help whatsoever......
The fact that you have to make so many changes to get the carbs to work well on that combo is likely the first clue that they aren’t the best choice for that application.
From a strictly pragmatic standpoint, I wouldn’t have bought carbs that I didn’t already have tuning parts for, and were always a couple of days away.
There are other issues in the combo not related to the carbs themselves that IMO are exacerbating the tuning woes.
You have the Weiand TR, right?
The one with the giant plenum area under the carbs........ that you figured weren’t big enough, so there’s like a 2” spacer under each carb?
Besides you thinking they look cool...... what they also do pretty effectively is kill off/dampen/delay the signal to the carb.
I’ll follow along to see how it all works out....... but I think you’re going to have your work cut out for you.
The fact that you have to make so many changes to get the carbs to work well on that combo is likely the first clue that they aren’t the best choice for that application.
From a strictly pragmatic standpoint, I wouldn’t have bought carbs that I didn’t already have tuning parts for, and were always a couple of days away.
There are other issues in the combo not related to the carbs themselves that IMO are exacerbating the tuning woes.
You have the Weiand TR, right?
The one with the giant plenum area under the carbs........ that you figured weren’t big enough, so there’s like a 2” spacer under each carb?
Besides you thinking they look cool...... what they also do pretty effectively is kill off/dampen/delay the signal to the carb.
I’ll follow along to see how it all works out....... but I think you’re going to have your work cut out for you.
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I took the exact same approach, except I did try to help by saying "maybe re-install the eddies". But I got told in his newest thread I was a thread wrecker
I hope he gets it figured out and gets them working well, because I know he likes the looks of them. And who knows, maybe he will. Wishing him the best.
j par
Well-hung Member
I just got off the phone with the machine shop where my heads are at and was talking to Ted and the problem of describing to him is what he called fuel standoff.. where when I give it fuel it's not shooting down it's shooting up. I get the lean condition and I can see the fuel traveling upwards on the carburetor.. well I see the AF gauge slam upwards as well momentarily..
j par
Well-hung Member
without scrolling down I could see there was another post and I knew it was you jumping on the bandwagon have I told you so...I took the exact same approach, except I did try to help by saying "maybe re-install the eddies". But I got told in his newest thread I was a thread wrecker
LOL... And anyone that states I'm not going 10's on 5k I can count on your agree or comment as well.
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Holleys 480-550 cfm no vacuum secondaries a must. Or equivalent
50 cc squirters as well
Then you have a base to jet down
Especially with 75-150 shot nitrous.
Just my philosophy. Only blew up
2 motors. That was excessive compression
I run 50 degree straight advance 1.6 rockers steel heads 452. 383 short stroke.
285/300 duration cam or so on street.TR
With 2 580 cfm holleys
100 shot nos. 3500 stall 727, 4.10 sg gear.
Still running.lol
50 cc squirters as well
Then you have a base to jet down
Especially with 75-150 shot nitrous.
Just my philosophy. Only blew up
2 motors. That was excessive compression
I run 50 degree straight advance 1.6 rockers steel heads 452. 383 short stroke.
285/300 duration cam or so on street.TR
With 2 580 cfm holleys
100 shot nos. 3500 stall 727, 4.10 sg gear.
Still running.lol
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