Duster won't start

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mopar951

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Hi I have a 1973 plymouth duster with a 340 and today I went to go start and it would just crank but not fire I changed the ballest resistior and still nothing I'm not getting spark and it sounds like it wants to start when I turn the ignition off help!
 
Not getting spark...electronic or points? I'm running a Mallory dual point on my 71 340 and had to replace the capacitor...then it fired right up....got one from Napa for cheap that was for an older dual point. If it sat for awhile you might cleanup the connections before purchasing. Good luck.
 
Could be the ignition switch. You could probably put a jumper across the ballast resistor and it would run. This doesn't really diagnose any particular fault. Just makes it run.
You'll need a volt meter for actual testing.
 
If it wants to start when you release the key, then it is probably the IGN2 line from the ignition switch. That bypasses the ballast when cranking to give a hotter spark. If it does nto work, then you have no power to the coil while cranking.

If you have a 12v test light or voltmeter, then put it on the coil + so you can read the voltage or see the test light. Turn the key to START while watching; you should get 10 to 12 v or see the ligth glow brightly.

If not, then check the brown wire from the Q postion in the middle bulkhead connector to see if the voltage is there when cranking.
 
First thing to try is one of the two

1.....Use a clip lead and hook battery power direct to the coil+ and see if it starts or you have spark

2....Or put your voltmeter on the coil +. Turn the key to run. You should have anywhere from 5--11 V

Then crank the starter WITH THE KEY and watch the meter while cranking. You should see 10.5 V or HIGHER when cranking

If not, as above, the "bypass" circuit known as IGN2

Another thing.....

If you have HIGHER than indicated with the key in "run" above, this means that the ECU is either bad or not grounded, or the coil is bad. Unbolt the ECU. Scrape the firewall and flange of the ECU clean and re--mount tight. use star lock washers. It MUST be tight and GROUNDED. MUST

Remove the distributor connector. "Work" it in / out several times to scrub the terminals.

Hook the distributor connector to your meter, set for low AC that's right AC volts. Crank the engine. It should generate about 1V AC

Inspect the interior of the cap and distributor, for grease, oil, moisture, carbon tracking. Inspect the rotor carefully for spark "punch through."

Inspect the reluctor and pickup for strike damage, rust, and debri

With the distributor connector unhooked, and the key in run, take a grounded clip lead. Ground first one, then the other, of the two distributor connections going to the ECU. (I forget which one, try both). One of them should give you as spark each time you do this.

Does not hurt to pull the connectors off the ballast and ECU and "work" them in / out several times to "feel" for tightness and scrub the terminals.
 
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