Easy (?) OD Auto Install

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I’ve got a 904/8.75 with 3.55 rear on my 69 Barracuda.
Other than going with a Gear Vendors O/D, what’s the easiest overdrive transmission to install that involves the least cutting/grinding/fabbing/welding?

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I had a 200-4R built for my '69 Dart by Extreme Automatics in Amelia, OH. No cutting of my Dart's trans tunnel to install. Some trimming of the pinch-weld area under the car was all. I also used the US Car Tool 67-75 A-Body GM 200-4R crossmember kit.
Extreme Automatics cuts off the stock bellhousing and uses a bolt-on SFI-approved cast aluminum bell from Reid Racing. No need for any additional adapters.
I had mine built as a manual-shift, reverse pattern so no need for a TV cable.
I'm going to be running 4.30 gears but the .67 OD will make them like 2.88s when cruising the SoCal freeways.
Win-Win!!!
 
I have a A518 needing rebuild waiting in the wings for my B-Body. Currently running 904. The idea of a lower first gear and the lighter trans so the 999 has me thinking. Hope I am not hijacking but can anyone comment on the strength of the A999 and what donor vehicle to look for? Assuming they are hydraulic and not electronically controlled.

Edit.....strictly a street car with say 350HP 400TQ ish
 
strictly a street car with say 350HP 400TQ ish
Not a problem

The A500 has the lower ratios, for the best of both worlds, but
at your torque level, I doubt you would need them, so the 518 is still a good choice.
350/400T are excellent street numbers for 3.23s in an A-body.
In a B, I can see a lil help from the stall. But with the A518, you can run pretty much any gear that you want, until first gear becomes useless. Since you already have it...........
 
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Thanks AJ. Running 3.55's but would probably go 4.10 with OD.
Hang on Joe;
with 4.10s your cruise rpm will be about 65=2285 with 27" tires. This rpm works well with about a 220* or less cam. If you run a 230 or more,the intake will get to be muddled up enough to not return the decent fuel economy you were expecting. So you kindof need to tie cruise rpm together with the cam.
At the other end, your starter gear is 2.74 x 4.10=11.23,

I like to gear my combo to powerpeak in second gear at just before 60 mph. This will give me the best chance at ET'ing in the shortest time.
So in this case about the closest you can do is in fact, the 4.10s; which will get you 60=4710 at zero-slip, say 5400 with 27s and 15% slip. That's looking good. But the starter is now 11.23 quite a high number for an automatic.

Lets try it with the A518, which has the 904 ratios.
With 4.10s and 27s, 60 is now 4430/5100@15% slip, and the starter is 10.05, still high but better, IMO.

So now you pick a gearset, and cam your engine to make it happen.
In either case , 65= 2285, so a 220*@.050, or less, cam is about right for that cruise-rpm. You can do it with a 230 cam, but a hydraulic 230* will not do well in the fuel economy arena. I have had both a 224 and a 230, and at 11/1 besides. 224 did well, while 230 not.

If the engine is already built, and has a 230* or bigger cam, then 2285rpm is on the low side to cruise at, for fuel efficiency. My 230* cammed combo cruises at 2240 , and I stopped logging fuel mileage in about 2006 or so,lol.
In anycase; HappyHotRodding
 
I have a A518 needing rebuild waiting in the wings for my B-Body. Currently running 904. The idea of a lower first gear and the lighter trans so the 999 has me thinking. Hope I am not hijacking but can anyone comment on the strength of the A999 and what donor vehicle to look for? Assuming they are hydraulic and not electronically controlled.

Edit.....strictly a street car with say 350HP 400TQ ish
The 999 I have came out of a 88 Chrysler 5th Ave. Hydraulic LU, locks up converter (light throttle) about 40-45mph in my car. Build like a 904 good for your combo. Dont know if or when the LU function changed to electronic? Have the LU converter built as well.
 
Just remember don't jump on one just because it's a 998 or 999. Not all of them were lockup transmissions. A lot of people think that and they are wrong. Make SURE it's a lockup transmission FIRST if that's what you're looking for.
 
Just remember don't jump on one just because it's a 998 or 999. Not all of them were lockup transmissions. A lot of people think that and they are wrong. Make SURE it's a lockup transmission FIRST if that's what you're looking for.
You make a good point Rusty – I’ve been looking into an A999 lock-up and can’t seem to find the correct Mopar ID codes on the web. From what I’ve read the codes are stamped on the side of the transmission case, and what I found on the web is only for non-lock up 999’s. Does anyone out there know the ID codes for the lock-up transmissions?
 
You make a good point Rusty – I’ve been looking into an A999 lock-up and can’t seem to find the correct Mopar ID codes on the web. From what I’ve read the codes are stamped on the side of the transmission case, and what I found on the web is only for non-lock up 999’s. Does anyone out there know the ID codes for the lock-up transmissions?

I have a book that lists the codes and if they are lockup or non-lockup. If you find one, PM me the code and I'll see if I can find out about it.

Lockups were typically used in Chrysler cars, while non lockups can be found in Dodge trucks (including Dakotas) and Jeeps. That's not to say every truck is non lockup and every car is lockup. An easy way to tell (if the tranny is out of the vehicle) is to look at the input shaft. Lockups have a machined nub on the end of the shaft, about an inch or so and then it goes to splines.
 
I have a book that lists the codes and if they are lockup or non-lockup. If you find one, PM me the code and I'll see if I can find out about it.

Lockups were typically used in Chrysler cars, while non lockups can be found in Dodge trucks (including Dakotas) and Jeeps. That's not to say every truck is non lockup and every car is lockup. An easy way to tell (if the tranny is out of the vehicle) is to look at the input shaft. Lockups have a machined nub on the end of the shaft, about an inch or so and then it goes to splines.
Hi Russell I found these numbers on the side of the pan:
PK 3410779A
 
View attachment 1715651940

I had a 200-4R built for my '69 Dart by Extreme Automatics in Amelia, OH. No cutting of my Dart's trans tunnel to install. Some trimming of the pinch-weld area under the car was all. I also used the US Car Tool 67-75 A-Body GM 200-4R crossmember kit.
Extreme Automatics cuts off the stock bellhousing and uses a bolt-on SFI-approved cast aluminum bell from Reid Racing. No need for any additional adapters.
I had mine built as a manual-shift, reverse pattern so no need for a TV cable.
I'm going to be running 4.30 gears but the .67 OD will make them like 2.88s when cruising the SoCal freeways.
Win-Win!!!

Like , how much h.p. will it take ?
 
Hi Russell I found these numbers on the side of the pan:
PK 3410779A

Late 70s A904 out of a 318 Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, or Challenger.

This is according to MyMopar, as my book did not list that number. They do not list the PK at the beginning, nor the A at the end. The PK denotes the Kokomo factory, not sure about the A.
 
Late 70s A904 out of a 318 Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, or Challenger.

This is according to MyMopar, as my book did not list that number. They do not list the PK at the beginning, nor the A at the end. The PK denotes the Kokomo factory, not sure about the A.
It’s in a ‘78 Diplomat
 
It’s in a ‘78 Diplomat

There is always the possibility that it has been swapped in. According to all the resources I check, Chrysler's transmission part numbers began with the number 3 up until 1976. A late 70s Diplomat would have a part number beginning with the number 4.

IF the information I sourced is correct, you should have a non lockup 904. The Diplomat would have came factory with lockup. I'm assuming it is still bolted to the engine? If not, have a look at the input shaft. Lockup will have a machined nub, non lockup will be plain splines.
 
It’s in a ‘78 Diplomat

Are there any numbers after that? Should be two sets of four numbers. The first four indicate the day it was built, according to the 10,000 day calendar Chrysler used. The second set of four indicates the sequential serial number.

For example:

3028 = Build date = November 11, 1969
6361 = Sequential serial number = 6,361st transmission built that day

For reference, July 29th, 1961 is day one of the 10,000 day calendar. To figure out the build date of your transmission, go here and enter the number

Chrysler's 10,000-Day Calendar
 
Thanks for the info Russell.
I’ll have to get some better pictures of the code numbers on the pan, the numbers I put here are just the first sequence.
 
Just went from a 7.25 with 2.76s to an 8.25 with 3.92s this winter. Drove 140 miles today and I came on here looking for overdrive ideas lol. Thanks for the info guys. Maybe get the gears in my head churning.
 
Just went from a 7.25 with 2.76s to an 8.25 with 3.92s this winter. Drove 140 miles today and I came on here looking for overdrive ideas lol. Thanks for the info guys. Maybe get the gears in my head churning.
Hyup that's a pretty big 42% increase in rpm at any particular roadspeed.
Most overdrives are in the range of 72% to 78%, so that will get you a NET change back to close to what you started with, in other words your 3.92s will final drive at say 3.92 x.72 =2.82
The Mopar OD ratio is .69 so; .69 x3.92=2.70 WINNER. lol.
IIRC the chevy is .62 so; .62 x 3.92=2.43, so your engine better be able to pull down there; as 65=2000 or less. And it is sometimes extremely difficult to give the engine the ignition timing it wants down there.
IMO 2400 is about the lowest rpm you can cruise at and still make a decent timing curve, with a decent cruise rpm.

But here's the deal;
I bet you swapped those 2.76s out because your engine combo was a lil lacking in punch, am I right? Well the great thing about a streeter is it doesn't have to go very fast, as the speed-limits get in the way. So because of that we have a much greater flexibility in gearing.
We have in just the Mopar Line; two automatic ratio sets, and many rear gears, and several different engine sizes, and numerous other ways of punching it up.
For example; Say you had a slanty that made 80 hp at a stall of 1800. and say you had a 2.45 low gear and those 2.76s. So to see what the launch is gonna look like, first we have to convert that 80hp to footpounds and I get 233 of them. At the axles this would be 233 x 2.45 x2.76=1576 not to peppy.
Now say you swapped out the 2.76s for 3.92s, that would get you 233 x2.45x 3.92=2238, OH lookit that, that's nice. Lets say you were happy with that .
The next question is this; how can we make 2238 ftlbs and get the rpm down without going to the hassle/expense of the overdrive.
Well, your first cheapest and easiest option is the 2.74 first gear. With that;
2238/(233 x2.74)= 3.55 gears and 65 =2900, down from 3200. Better but not enough.
Say you were willing to run 3.23s for 65=2640, and you had that 2.74 low gear, How much torque would the slanty need, at 1800 to make that magic 2238 ftlbs?
I get; 2238/ (2.74 x 3.23)=253@1800. That's only plus 20 ftlbs/plus 6.7 hp more than I started with. I'm willing to bet you can easily get that with a lil more stall.......
So, while an overdrive will really knock your rpm down, the 2.74low and 3.23s with a higher stall will get you pretty close.
What about those 2.76s that you still have? Can we use those?
Well, lets look at the numbers;
2238/ (2.74 x2.76)=296 ftlbs required to match what you might now have, or at least the combo I am exercising here.
OK no, it will not be easy nor cheap to get 296ftlbs out of the slanty at a reasonable stall. With a 2800 stall, this would take 158 hp
But a 318 can...................
So I hope you can see the progression
Now I realize that in Columbia, your resources might be somewhat limited...... but I just wanted to throw some ideas out at you.
 
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