However, in the case of Edelbrock, the prices have drastically gone up while quality has surely gone down.This is very true. I know people who want everything cheaper
However, in the case of Edelbrock, the prices have drastically gone up while quality has surely gone down.This is very true. I know people who want everything cheaper
Is Bloomer still selling heads?Bloomer heads can be had too. They are true bolt on and go, and are better than either of the other two mentioned.
I'm sure that you have noticed that a lot of things have went up in price while both quality and quantity has went down.However, in the case of Edelbrock, the prices have drastically gone up while quality has surely gone down.
Shocker 185 Mopar CNC (Sold in Pairs) - PROMAXX Performance ProductsThey are riding on coattails of men who did it as a passion ( Founders) and a living , today corporations run it for money etc
Those are the only
2.08 set ups ready to bolt on ! Blow um off and install
He is meticulous and loves the sport. Bruce Toth is another good LA supplier ready to bolt on.
If you have the secret decoder ring I guess.To those that want them , they are available. Nothing wrong with the other options either.
If you have the secret decoder ring I guess.
Since you are in the marketing department, maybe you could post up a phone number or email address to order them?
Ok sorry wasn't AwareShocker 185 Mopar CNC (Sold in Pairs) - PROMAXX Performance Products
These show to be a 2.08. I had not looked at them until I saw them mentioned in the Free Camshaft thread.
In my opinion, I wouldn't spend the money to rebuild old heads. When the smoke clears you will likely spend 60-70% of the price of a new set of Speed masters or Performance World heads, and have an inferior head at the end of the day.Wow..lots of good info guys. It seems a rebuilt set of J heads would be a better choice for most builds.
J heads will flow 400 hp and really 325-350 is plenty for a nice all around driver. To push 400 hp you'll need a bigger cam and aluminum or ported stock heads.Then you'll have more expense and a "dud" on the street.
J heads will flow 400 hp and really 325-350 is plenty for a nice all around driver. To push 400 hp you'll need a bigger cam and aluminum or ported stock heads.Then you'll have more expense and a "dud" on the street.
1 foundry in the ISA in Cali. YouTube “Edebrock.”If Edelbrock would publish the list of foundrys that they use, or spend time on quality control....
LMAO!
100%!J heads will flow 400 hp and really 325-350 is plenty for a nice all around driver.
I disagree, though…. It’s all about the combo. I wouldn’t expect a sweet runner with a 8.-1 compression ratio and Hwy gears coupled with the cam needed to make the power. The cam would obviously have to be a bit large in duration to make the power. But a stock port will allow the power.To push 400 hp you'll need a bigger cam and aluminum or ported stock heads.Then you'll have more expense and a "dud" on the street.
That’s exactly how it will work. But yes. Stock 340/360 heads tend to have peak air flow at .500. The old Crane Cams catalog was chock full of cams around .500 lift with a wide verity of durations. I am about to fire up a 5.9 with just headers, rpm intake and a 750 AFB with a Crane cam of 236/.497-108. The 1.6 Magnum head rockers add a bit of lift to .539.Could make a good discussion. But if the stock heads stall out around .480 lift can you get 425-450 with a big cam and stock heads? Long duration would surely help but it would have a tough time at lo rpm.
Hang on from 3000 up!
So i was lookin' through the Summit catalogue today and priced them at around $1000.
Is that for a pair...looks like just 1?
Yup..gears and converter will fix the lo end but now you're heading to more of a race build and the all around
driver is sacrificed to some degree. I ran a warm 340 with a .230 duration cam and it was lazy. A 9 1/2" Dynamic converter solved the lo rpm power but the novelty wore off driving "through it"or "out of it" on steep hills or corners at highway speeds.
Here's a nice all around driver...I didn't load this video correctly so just restart the video and watch the first couple of minutes. Pretty much stock and would be a blast to drive everywhere with decent mileage. And i bet it'll probably be about 14.5 give or take.
No..it's not a quarter miler
I got a black Friday deal on Speedmaster big block heads 900 bucks a pair! Bolt on ready? Not so much. Good quality, but assembled with no time and patience to properly get all seats to match each and every valve. I will do all of that, but if they had been run, I guarantee problems would have developed later.I had a cast iron set of Js just redone for just under a grand. I hear Speedmasters are a better choice for the money but if they need machine work right out of the box I disagree. I expect something like that to bolt on out of the box and work...that's savings to me .
I wouldn’t put a dime into a cast iron head if I wasn’t required to. I’m at touch over 400 with my highly ported x heads. If the cast head needs work, save up and go aluminum. Repairable/lighter/better casting/easier to get ported. Rebuilding a set of cast heads isn’t really financially smart. As to the Eddy head, I have a set that have not given me any issues. Two issues that might need addressing. Alternator figment and if you use the 340 exhaust manifolds. They might hit the head. Not hard issues to solve, just need to keep them in mind.J heads will flow 400 hp and really 325-350 is plenty for a nice all around driver. To push 400 hp you'll need a bigger cam and aluminum or ported stock heads.Then you'll have more expense and a "dud" on the street.
But under 3000 rpm we spend most time at part throttle which means the engine only making what it needs to do normal driving which is not much and it's only a fraction of the hp the engine capable of even at low rpms. And at full throttle how much time do we spend under 3000 rpms anyways.Could make a good discussion. But if the stock heads stall out around .480 lift can you get 425-450 with a big cam and stock heads? Long duration would surely help but it would have a tough time at lo rpm.
Hang on from 3000 up!
Built a few 383's like that back in the late 70's / 80Hang on from 3000 up!
4.57's and convertor helped get in the R's quick. ported 915's, 557 solid and street dominator with Carter comp.The lack of torque is overcome with steeper gears & the obvious sacrifice of interstate driving.
Unless your deep into the pedal all time to do normal driving your engine already makes an excess of under 3000 rpm power.I agree...we spend all our time driving under 3000 so that's were you want power.
There's a lot of cam choices between stock and the one's your posting, there a lot of streetable cams to pick especially if you add it with good heads to make streetable power. Bigger cams can also and tend to add in the 2500-4500 rpm range not just on top, it generally takes a very big cam to make less torque at 2500 rpm then stock low power cam.I have also used the old .474 purple shaft with about .238 duration and like all big cams it was a dud on the street. Those cams make power at high rpm and are a necessity for 12 seconds at the strip, but require hi stall converters and gears which are unpleasant for normal driving.