Edelbrock Heads for 318

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321Scamp

321Scamp

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I have been looking at a set as Edelbrock Performer RPM heads that has 2.02/1.65 valves for my 318. If I got them, I was going to get the Performer Cam kit as well. Would this be a good combo with the Performer intake and Edelbrock 600 carb on my 318 that has been bored .020 over? Would I have to do any mods or is it a good bolt on deal?

Thanks
 
I wanna know too. I called Eddy tech line a few months ago and ask them about them. The guy said with stock or stock replacement pistons the compression would be too low but the heads can be milled up to .050 but he thought .030 off would be enough. Said theres no way the heat riser could be added, I though maybe you could drill a 1/2 hole to get exhaust heat for the intake--going to be only around 30 degress all this week but no salt on the roads yet so its going out for sure--I am not 100% sure he was right, guess a good machinist would know. I also ask about if the cylinders have to be noched out for the 2.02 intake valves so the valves don't hit the cylinder walls. He said no work like that has to be done, just mill them and bolt them on. Now I have my lastest Summit Racing catlog and get this it has a * and under it it says 318's need to have the cylinder walls noched out for clearance!. Has anybody here use these heads on a 318?
 
Cause lots of us have 318's and they are a good motor. Mines rebuilt and I don't feel like pulling it. Yeah its a dumb reason but so is lots of things folks do. The short stroke is good for high rpm's also. Yeah maybe not like 7000-8000rpm's like a 340 with a steel crank but I hear they can go to 6500 rpm's and last longer than a stock 360 at the same rpm's. Sure we give up power at low rpm's but if the car has 4.10 gears and or a high stall conveter it can make up for it. Hey I think one member here does have a 318 with Eddys heads and he runs 11.8 in the quarter with nitrous so theres is one member here for sure.
 
I have not used the e brocks, but I have use the x or j 2.02 valve head on 318s they clear no problem. The small 273 needed a notch....U should check with ebrock to see if the valve spacing is in the stock location.....kim
 
dodge freak said:
I wanna know too. I called Eddy tech line a few months ago and ask them about them. The guy said with stock or stock replacement pistons the compression would be too low but the heads can be milled up to .050 but he thought .030 off would be enough. Said theres no way the heat riser could be added, I though maybe you could drill a 1/2 hole to get exhaust heat for the intake--going to be only around 30 degress all this week but no salt on the roads yet so its going out for sure--I am not 100% sure he was right, guess a good machinist would know. I also ask about if the cylinders have to be noched out for the 2.02 intake valves so the valves don't hit the cylinder walls. He said no work like that has to be done, just mill them and bolt them on. Now I have my lastest Summit Racing catlog and get this it has a * and under it it says 318's need to have the cylinder walls noched out for clearance!. Has anybody here use these heads on a 318?
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What are they? 63cc? with flat-tops that should be roughly 9.2:1ish im gonna guesstimate. nothing wrong with that. i have 56cc j's (2.02) on my 318, flat tops, not decked with 9.7:1. so stock 63cc eddies shouldnt be too bad on a stock bottom. i have .480lift and 2.02s with no clearance problems with my 318
 
I just recently picked up an 85 318 with the Eddy heads on
it and I didn't notice any type of modifications. the 318 was
bored .030 over if that makes any difference. I plan on using
the heads on a 360.
 
No need to notch bores with 2.02's on a 318. With stock 318 pistons and aluminum heads compression will be an issue. Will it run OK? sure. Will a compression boost wake it up? Oh yeah! Consider a set of KB167 pistons for a nice compression boost. What ever happened to MP's el cheapo 9.0:1 cast flat tops? Bottom line, and probably why Edelbrock discourages the swap is lack of compression in a 318.

Aluminum heads due to their greater themrmal conductivity will "pull" a bit of energy out of the chamber. The easy fix for this is more energy through a compression increase. Aluminum heads also run a bit cooler so compression can be raised to slightly higher levels than iron heads. 10:1 on pump gas is reasonable with aluminum heads and 11:1 isnt out of the question depending on cam selection. No, you wont get 11:1 with stock 318 pistons, dont even try. All else being equal, aluminum head engines like about a full point more compression. Given your proposed combo a set of 302's or Magnums would probably provide better bang for the buck.
 
hi, on a 318, the 587 head with mopar sst 1.88 valves will provide more that enough air for this motor!!! plus they will have very high port velocity, which fills the cylinders better and faster for more power!! an aluminum head will require raising comp/ ratio up at least one full point to make up for loss of cylinder heat!! the most important thing is port velocity and shape. don't get hung up on the big numbers game! a 587 head flowing 190 cfm will support about 410 h.p. this is from super flow's equations on air flow needed.
 
If I go with the magnum head, there is a mod of some sort to be done right? Or is it just the valve covers bolt location? Maybe I am thinking of something else.
 
Magnum heads can run the old LA valve covers, but it may take a little finagling to get them sealed permanently. You need to have the Magnum heads re-drilled for a std LA intake bolt pattern. But any shop can do that very easily. You will have to run the Magnum rockers, and AMC lifters and pushrods because the rockers oil thru the pushrods on MAgnums, and thru a shaft on LAs. The Magnums have the smallest chambers..IIRC 53cc, and the best factory ports, plus decent valve sizes. That's the heads to use IMO.
 
MAN! I'm late to this thread

mikesduster my question is WHY the 318??....
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Mike, he's asking for help with a 318. While your comment has merit, it does not answer his question at all. He's also saving the purchase price of the engine. 1 or 2 benjis could be alot to him. Why get behind the 8-ball from the get go when there is really nothing wrong with a 318?
These type of answers is what got me started on a 318 Duster project.

321Scamp, I'm starting with you from your first thread.

The Edel. heads on a 318 can be use no problem, but your comp. ratio is to low. The cam and intake you asked about is to mild and best used for a stock headed engine. Actually, it is in my opinion you use the cam for a door stop. The intake is good. Go to Huges for a good cam for the teen. Comp and Crane also make nice split duration cams for a few bucks less.
Otherwise, there a bolt on and in deal.

dodge freak & 321Scamp
Said theres no way the heat riser could be added, I though maybe you could drill a 1/2 hole to get exhaust heat for the intake--going to be only around 30 degress all this week but no salt on the roads yet so its going out for sure--I am not 100% sure he was right, guess a good machinist would know. I also ask about if the cylinders have to be noched out for the 2.02 intake valves so the valves don't hit the cylinder walls. He said no work like that has to be done, just mill them and bolt them on. Now I have my lastest Summit Racing catlog and get this it has a * and under it it says 318's need to have the cylinder walls noched out for clearance!. Has anybody here use these heads on a 318?
Click to expand...

Heads are bolt on, no maching needed. The 273 can not take a 2.02 I'm sure, but needs a notch for the 1.88. C130 Chief and perfacar hit it on the head good. Moper covered it on a how to install the Magnum heads if desired.
IMO, it's your choice on the head.
I myself can not understand why the stock head "Preped" wouldn't do it for you. Even smog casting well preped would be nice and pocket porting is still a good move and gain. By way of the intail cam choice listed, A Performer, the build is very mild. Very.
Did you mean a RPM cam? I'd still leave it on there shelf.
Alot cheaper than edel. heads and performance gained.
You have to figure new heads and bolts vs re-using the old heads milled a tad for a good ratio. The iron will keep the heat and the skinnier ports will keep velocity up. Just what the teen needs. Unless your going for broke.

But this hole you want to drill, (?) YIKES. You want to add a heat riser for the cold right?
I'll have to show you this. It is a stock 340 (73) aircleaner on my 400 B engine and the heat stove I added. Do this and you'll be OK. All it is, is a peice of sheet metal cut to length of the headers pipe, bent in a tight U shape. I cut 2 slits on each end for worm clamps (Like for the rad hoses) that wrap around the header pipe and keep it high enuff to create a cave like area. This mimics the heat stove. It hasn't failed to do it's job yet. I've only been to 30* in the morning. Theres a marked difference in warm up time on the big block.
On a exhaust manifold, passengerside, theres that flapper valve design to force exhaust back up and through the intake manifold. You can duplicate this. I *think* it's Hooker has this very part designed for headers. It bolts onto the collector.

OK brothers and sisters, ttyl.

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70408dart said:
I just recently picked up an 85 318 with the Eddy heads on
it and I didn't notice any type of modifications. the 318 was
bored .030 over if that makes any difference. I plan on using
the heads on a 360.
Click to expand...

'85? Roller motor? You'll like them on a 360. They act like pocket ported heads. Nice improvement over as cast stock heads.
 
Well I have a open 14" K & N air filter so that heat stove won't work for me and I don't want that heavy stock air cleaner on. I tend to agree that stock heads ported are good and it has the exhaust cross over for the intake heat. But which castings, the 318's with 1.88 and 1.6 valves added or the 360 heads that already have the bigger valves in ? $1300 is alot of $ plus theres new head bolts another $75 so theres no Eddy's heads coming here anytime time soon I am afaid. Too much $$ are going for gas, I drop $50 just last week runing it.
 
15 years ago I used that "performer cam" It stinks, 204@ .050 and when I pulled it a year later when I reliased how small it was the lobes were already wearing out. Go with Comps, Crane etc. No Eddy cams for me ever again, another reason Eddys not get $1300 from me.
 
hey RUMBLE,

1st,i have every right to ask any question i want too.
2nd,if he has $1,300.00 for eddy heads,another $100.00-$300.00 to have them checked over to make SURE they are ok from the factory,whats 1 or 2 more benji's for a 360??
 
Gosh, lets not get so upset. All he meant was why answer a question with a question. Maybe for some dumb, stupid reason somebody wants to use a 318, just like some like 273's and some like the 6 bangers.
 
Awww, the heat stove and stock air cleaner can be removed once it warms up a bit after winter. Where are you located? It doesn't say under your screen name.

The best castings are the 302's. This being a non-magnum engine?
I assumed. (Eeeeeeekkkk!!!)
But the Magnums are a excellent choice as well if you don't mind the work involved. It's more than just swapping parts out and cutting new pushrods. There could be an issue with hi-lift cams and pistons.
Not the case 99% of the time here.

Besides the Magnum heads, which I'm not to sure on there flow numbers and balance ratio between int. and Ex. I would say, build dependent of course, the 318 head can use a 1.60 exhaust valve first and foremost before a 1.88 intake valve. Back cut both valves and perform some light bowl work. (With the stock intake valve and 1.60 valve)
This would be very good for mild street engines and rear ratios 3.55 and under, er, lower, umm, numerically lower. 3.23, 2.76.

If your running 3.55's and numerically higher, (3.73 to 3.90) a 1.88 valve can be used. It is assumed at this point, your looking for some decent HP from the 318 and your not just piddling around town. Raised comp. ratios, headers and increased cam timing in excess of 224 @ .050 with as much lift as you can cram would be the idea going here.
Around this are or so, one can expect hi 300 HP numbers. This works real well in a Duster/Scamp etc....

Be advised that stock heads have the worst balance ratio between the intake and exhaust ports. On a dead stock head, a split cam of not more than 12*'s is advisable. This extra duration helps empty the cylinder and increases the power via leaving the cylinder emptier for the incoming intake charge of air and fuel. Less exhaust gas left behind is better. With this inmind, even a stock smog head can be made to perform fine. Though they do have a limit, there is probably nothing wrong with it for useage in a mild machine.

Once you start porting the heads, the balance should change with the increased exhaust port work. Less seperation in duration between the int. & ex. can result. Remember, theres also to much of a good thing.

You can do very well with a stock head. The real trick is knowing your parts and what there capable of. Not everything is cold hard facts and flow numbers. But there a great start to your build. Heres the questions for everybody;

What do my heads flow and there % in balance to each other.
(The percentage helps find you a cam. Some need more duration then others and some more lift than others.)
Where does the heads flow stall.
(A point where the valve lifts higher, but the cfm stays the same or worse yet, drops. It doesn't pay to get a cam with a lift of .600 when the head stops doing anything after .480)
Is there enuff port volume/velocity for the intended purpose of the engine build?
(These 2 allmost allways go hand in hand. For the street, hi port velocity should be first. A bigger port, most allways, slows down the air and fuel into the engine. The air and fuel should be kept moving from start to finish as quickly as possible.)

There is a time and place for each head out there and it's starts with the intended purpose of the build. You don't want to use 360 heads on a mild build. You may want them for a street machine/light race build. 2.02's in the head, for the most part, should not be on the street. Theres a fickle area where there OK. But the lose of torque and low speed drivabilty must be met with higher stall converters and numerically higher gears.
Your going to get people screaming there 2.02 J head rocks and rules the world, but I'd be happy to point out a fella or 2 that'll whop'em with a smaller head.
Balance!
 
321scamp did not say he was on a budget or he only had $1,300 to spend..he just asked about eddys on a 318 and i wanted to let him know he would be BETTER off with a 360 with eddy heads over a 318..thats it.

i dont care if he wanted to run a 4 banger,i just wanted to let him know that sometimes theres other and sometimes better options than we know about.

no biggie.
 
I recall back around 1983 I knew a 50 year old guy who kept spending over $1000 every 9 months or so on a Ford overdrive trans for his hot 302 motor. Back then those overdrive trans were weak but he was getting 22 mpg on the freeway with it, but they were always giving out in 6-9 months and he spend another $1000. After he was on the 3rd trans I ask him why not just get a C 6 auto trans for $500 that would last a long time. After all I told him the money you are saving on gas is not worth throwing $2000 every 12-18 months on a new trans--gas was only $1.10 a gallon then. He told me that he would rather give his money to his trans guy then to the oil companys! even if it cost him MORE money. Thats how some folks are I guess
 
mikesduster said:
hey RUMBLE,

1st,i have every right to ask any question i want too.
2nd,if he has $1,300.00 for eddy heads,another $100.00-$300.00 to have them checked over to make SURE they are ok from the factory,whats 1 or 2 more benji's for a 360??
Click to expand...

Hey Mike. 1st up, east there, and yep, you do have everyright to ask him what ever. And fire away. I'll not stop you or what ever ....
From me;
Mike, he's asking for help with a 318. While your comment has merit, it does not answer his question at all. He's also saving the purchase price of the engine. 1 or 2 benjis could be alot to him. Why get behind the 8-ball from the get go when there is really nothing wrong with a 318?
These type of answers is what got me started on a 318 Duster project.
Click to expand...
Note I never questioned your right or said you could not ask. Please re-read my reply.
I just said you didn't answer his question.
I did say your answer has merit though.
I questioned the idea of paying more for something you allready have....an engine.

2nd. Thats the second best place to spend the money. Heads and good working ones. You say "whats 1 or 2 more benji's for a 360?" Maybe alot, maybe nothing. Maybe he's putting most of his money into heads? Maybe it's nothing to him, maybe it is? I don't know. I'm guessing if he had money to spend, he would have gotten a 360. OR maybe, he just wants a killer 318? I don't know.
I just know he asked a 318 question that was given a question on getting a bigger engine.
I'm answering his question. How about you? Did you stop to think of an answer or just ask the bigger engine question? You say I don't care if he runs a 4 banger. Thats great. Is your reply why not a 360?
No harm in the bigger engine question. But it allways seems to be that question to a 318 question.
I'm not trying to start in.
IMO, alot more fun would be a 440. :wav:
 
Overdrive! Now theres a great deal to be said on one of those on performance and mileage.
But not replacing one every so offten. Screw that! :butthead:
 
AGAIN!!!....all i wanted him to know is theres OTHER choices out there BESIDES a 318.

TRUST ME!!!!!,i wanted to build another 340 for my duster and EVERYONE and i mean EVERYONE said,"no,360"....and i went round and round with them, ALL of them and you know something,im building a 360...WHY???...because there was another option for me that i didnt know about...i NEVER thought of a 360 but now im glad i listened to them.

like i said before..NO BIGGIE!!!!
 
OH, P.S. to all, YEP! I'm a big believer in the 360. It's part of the screen name and I have 3 of them. I like it better than the 400. (Untill I stroke it!)
I've done a number of 318's and 360's. If you can afford to get a 360, go getcha one. If your doing a 318 for what ever reason and not looking for a 360, watch the balance of the build.

The short stroke of the 273/318/340 lacks in torque. Think before you build and cam it.

Mike's reply of why not a 360 has merrit. It really does! But not blaming Mike, but the general forum for replies that scorn the 318 in favor of a 360 when the poster wants help or advice on the teen. This is not helping and is really, in effect also a type of mocking the teen owner looking for help. It puts a cloud over the posters head, like, G-whiz, they act like it aint chit to have one. I didn't even get an answer on what to do except dump it.
No how did that help our MoPar brother or sister?
I came here to help and learn. What about you?!?!?

I started my Duster Project because of this. Not to mention I was missing owning one. Lets see what a few bolt ons can do. Come spring, we'll find out. See ya @ E-twon, Maple Grove or Reading in the spring and summer folks.

So far, Stock '79, 318 in a '74 Duster with a New Crane cam & timing chain from Summit, LD4B intake (Very used) 630 AVS from a 340,(Very used) cheapo air cleaner, Hooker headers w/a Jegs 2-1/2 exhaust. New rear springs on a (Very used) 8-1/4 w/3,21's.
On the cheap and having fun, just because.

I want to note I do NOT think Mike has scorned the 318 or anybody.
like i said before..NO BIGGIE!!!!
Click to expand...
No problem Mike! :thumbup: Just seen the post after a refresh.

I agree, knowing the options is good.
 
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