Edelbrock Intake Issue

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Off topic, BUT, the old lady and I ripped out the radiator in the water pump in the 07 Dakota around New Year's had it back running in 3 hours (2 hours of that was in the dark) point I'm trying to make is we use this stuff called Great Stuff! It used to be 12 bucks I had some in my toolbox in storage I bought it there too many ways that **** cost me 18 bucks but once you torque it down you give it 1 hour and you're on the road again that **** does not leak man takes very little of it I probably could have just gotten away with the rubber O ring that came with the water pump but I just don't like nothing leaking I'm not a fan of our sleeping everywhere and that blue crap thats never been worth a crap!
 
4spdragtop said:
I didnt read every post, but the OP and his mech asked about "dual pattern".
I believe he's referencing the mount holes TO THE HEADS Those dual sets are for magnum or LA install.
Good luck
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He's talking about the thermostat flange in the original post. The Edelbrock 2176 has a dual bolt pattern for the thermostat:

88-538-041-01.jpg


One pattern fits the 1977-older large-diameter thermostat/housing found on most of our cars, while the other is for the 1978 and newer smaller (Chevy) thermostat and housing. The later parts are required to clear the axial AC compressor used on 1978-92 LA engines. To my knowledge, the 2176 is still the only aftermarket intake that can be used with the factory '78-'92 LA AC installation. Some lack the mounting points for the compressor while others have runners that won't clear it.
The biggest issue is making sure you order the thermostat and housing for the same year of car/engine. There's no way to make the "classic" thermostat work with the later housing or vise-versa.
 
Thanks! I saw the 1st pic and thought it had dual pattern for the heads. :BangHead:
NoCar340 said:
He's talking about the thermostat flange in the original post. The Edelbrock 2176 has a dual bolt pattern for the thermostat:

View attachment 1716042351

One pattern fits the 1977-older large-diameter thermostat/housing found on most of our cars, while the other is for the 1978 and newer smaller (Chevy) thermostat and housing. The later parts are required to clear the axial AC compressor used on 1978-92 LA engines. To my knowledge, the 2176 is still the only aftermarket intake that can be used with the factory '78-'92 LA AC installation. Some lack the mounting points for the compressor while others have runners that won't clear it.
The biggest issue is making sure you order the thermostat and housing for the same year of car/engine. There's no way to make the "classic" thermostat work with the later housing or vise-versa.
Click to expand...
 
QUINN FORBES said:
Not sure about the chevy t stat but …according to the chevy & ford guys posts ( not that I go on there) they have had alot of problems with the chrome t stat housings.
I think moparofficial is on to something in post #14.
Do a test and bench your chrome job for an ugly stock housing that your thermostat fits in. Go for a rip. Check for leaks.
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Chrome is good for leaking period. Valve covers, trans pans, thermostat housings, etc. No parts that seal should be chrome unless you enjoy problems.
 
Update as of yesterday evening. Gaskets and sealant are holding up without any leaks on the old housing I used from previous intake setup. Going to give it more time to see how it holds up. If it fails, I'll try some of the suggestions on this thread. This Barracuda is definitely a work in progress so I will be visiting this forum on a frequent basis for guidance/suggestions.
 
Rick usually has practical and low cost solutions to problems. I like the way he thinks.
 
I have the Real Gaskets (post 57) T-stat silicone gasket on at least one of my Mopar V-8, plus their oil pan, valve cover, and tranny pan gaskets, basically any silicone gasket they have for mine in their catalog. I also use silicone heater hose in all my cars, silicone vacuum hoses, ... Did I mention I like silicone? Also silicone brake fluid, waterless coolant, stainless bolts and nuts. Polyurethane and butyl rubber are other materials that last.
 
BillGrissom said:
I have the Real Gaskets (post 57) T-stat silicone gasket on at least one of my Mopar V-8, plus their oil pan, valve cover, and tranny pan gaskets, basically any silicone gasket they have for mine in their catalog. I also use silicone heater hose in all my cars, silicone vacuum hoses, ... Did I mention I like silicone? Also silicone brake fluid, waterless coolant, stainless bolts and nuts. Polyurethane and butyl rubber are other materials that last.
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Silicone or saline in your women?
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Here's a little Mopar World secret for you ...
if the thermostat housing is Chrome.. it will not seal.
You'll have to surface all the chrome off the mating surface, 'scratch finish' and try again. Two times in my life I bought a chrome thermostat housing once when I first started out doing this...it leaked , I removed it. The other time about 15 years later when I forgot about the first time, it leaked and so I put an old rusted 1968 housing on after a wire wheeling...never leaked a drop.lol
Skip the fancy thermo housings and just clean up a stock one and paint it aluminum.
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Moparofficial, I could of wrote what you said word by word. Had the same issue years ago and only used stock ones sense. The chrome ones are slippery for sealing. I have lightly sanded the bottom but still had a leak. Did not want to remove all the chrome because that would of started the outer chrome to delaminate.
 
I have the Billet Specialties 98020 thermostat housing and the Emp Stewart 305 thermostat. The issue I am having is when I installed the thermostat housing and thermostat, I noticed that the thermostat is not clamped down tightly in the housing, it wiggles around slightly.

Does anyone know if this will work ok or does anyone know of a thermostat that fits more snugly or is this normal with the Billet Specialties housings?

Billet calls for a Stant 45478 which I can't seem to find locally.


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Heywodja said:
I have the Billet Specialties 98020 thermostat housing and the Emp Stewart 305 thermostat. The issue I am having is when I installed the thermostat housing and thermostat, I noticed that the thermostat is not clamped down tightly in the housing, it wiggles around slightly.

Does anyone know if this will work ok or does anyone know of a thermostat that fits more snugly or is this normal with the Billet Specialties housings?

Billet calls for a Stant 45478 which I can't seem to find locally.


​

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That thermostat is the best there is. It sounds like the housing is the issue. I wouldn’t use a Stant if it was free. Or any other brand for that matter.
 
Ok I called the Wilson manifold place, they use Motorad thermostats, which used to be standt. This is directly from their website.

“The New MotoRad FAILSAFE thermostat was developed through years of research and development. Its unique and exclusive extra stroke allows operation in two stages. During stage 1, it will operate like any other thermostat. Stage 2 operation provides extra stroke and actually locks the thermostat open when overheating is encountered. This thermostat is constructed from stainless steel and includes an integrated Jiggle Valve to help stabilize the pressure in the engine, reduces the delay in warm-up of the engine, and eliminates trapped air in the cooling system. This is the first thermostat in use world wide that will not fail.”
 
The alloy houses are better than the crummy steel ones.
I've had my share of leaks over the years, since I started running Mopes in 1970.
Here's what has worked for me:
> a flat intake surface, scratched with my old flat bastard file.
> A filed-flat and scratched housing, rough enough to grab the gasket
> the stat has to fit into the housing on the shelf provided, with a lil clearance to spare. I have machined many a housing to get this.
> any old gasket including sometimes, in my case, an old cereal-box, no sealer.
> 3/8 studs in the manifold, locked in, and fine-thread showing.
> load-spreader washers off a slanty exhaust manifold
> brass nuts so I never have to ever take the studs out.
> a 7# cap,
> but my secret weapon is a cooling system that runs at 205 to 207, rock solid, any weather, any ambient temp, no matter how badly I abuse her. At 7psi, my hoses seem to last forever; one of the rad hoses was already old when I installed it in 1999........ The old used heater hoses were replaced in about 2002. Somewhere along the way, maybe 2004, I installed a new silicone bypass hose with the special hose clamps..... not because the old one was leaking, but just cuz.
My stat gasket has been holding since 2004/05, which (IIRC)was the last time that I freshened the engine.
I'm not saying you gotta do this or that ; do whatever floats yur boat; but,
if you skip a step,
you get what you get.
 
I have had no problems with the Motor-Rad 2006-160 and 2006-180 regular high flow
And also no problems with the Fail-Safe 7200-160 Or 7200-180
BTW
Cheap chrome anything is junk no matter what it is. So Stainless or Billet housings for me.
As far as engine leaks goes the problem is the part and the chrome are both is trash.
As far as other parts same goes for them.
If you want chrome get good parts plated.
 
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