Edelbrock oil leak. Finally figured out why!

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Well what do you know...I received a reply back from Edelbrock about the Performer RPM intake casting flub causing my oil leak. They thanked me for bringing it to their attention and said that it will be forwarded to the appropriate departments.

So I guess I'm glad I let them know about it. Might save someone some aggravation dealing with annoying oil leaks in the future. I know they drive me nuts!
 
If they correct the problem. that's cool with me. Hard to get anything changed these days even when you have pictures showing the error. I'm just surprised they got back in touch with me. I was doubtful.
 
How many of those are on the shelf in warehouses? Its not JIT production on these pieces. But to their credit, Edelbrock is still using cheaper crappy sand cast molds that are easily modified, or "revised". Imagine if they used the more expensive steel molds, it would never get fixed, then the small tubes of RTV would start showing up in the boxes along with a little printed piece of paper saying "put RTV here".
 
416stroker said:
I was told 400 degrees before any softening begins. My friend Bob Snyder @ Snyder Race Engines says he's used it for years in his race engines for bonding lifter valley screens to the block and has never had any issues with it coming loose or melting so I guess that convinced me to give it a try. But he also said that there are two different types of JB Weld. He said not to use the quick set 5 minute stuff as it isn't as good. Get the type that takes 24 hours to fully cure.
Click to expand...

Excellent find 416! Thx!

Not to hijack the main theme, I however wanted to add a note
on JB WELD for those whom are hesitant to use same in a 'critical'
repair area...

I recently replaced a surge tank on one of My fleet vehicles,
the tank has a soldered in bung for a coolant level sight glass.
As a bad day would have it, no glass in stock to replace the broken one.
In lieu of the glass,I used the #8265 product , coated a brass plug , and
installed same.

The new tank failed (2 days later) on a seam & needed to be replaced...
Still no restock of the sight glass... So what the hey! just heat up the JB
(o/a torch) remove and reuse the plug? hahaha LMAO.

looooong story short---
Heating the plug...the soldered in bung & plug fell off the tank...
So for giggles I put the bung in a vise heated it to dull red!, but never did get the plug out ... I would say 400 degrees very conservatively.

Heard stories, that made a believer out of Me. sorry to get OT.
 
That's GOOD to hear mech1nxh!!! I don't think I have to worry now about my fix getting soft and falling off! I've heard stories about JB, but I think yours is the best example yet of how tough that stuff really is!

Thanks for the "tech tip"!
 
416stroker said:
That's GOOD to hear mech1nxh!!! I don't think I have to worry now about my fix getting soft and falling off! I've heard stories about JB, but I think yours is the best example yet of how tough that stuff really is!

Thanks for the "tech tip"!
Click to expand...


Hahahaha... a gracious response indeed.
I just added $.02, You did all the legwork... Kudos Sir !!
I was gonna dance with edel, brock, & the boyz... We will see...

If I may (with Your indulgence) this thread has reminded Me of
the one and only JB failure I have ever experienced... and for the FABO
folks interested I thought I should post the 'tech'.

Once upon a time I came across this brand 'X' turbo head...
One of those "unobtanium uber rare omg You found what? no thats b/s"
type finds.

Well, the head was real enough. with 4" of cracks in two intake ports...
Meh not to worry, cold side , JB & be done with it.

For the sake of brevity , 3x applications of the 24 hr product, 3x failures.
Until We (Myself & My machinist buds) realized adhesion was heat / oil
exposure dependent.

On 'cycled' non-ferous components You gotta bake the oil out of the
part, until one does, adhesion ain't gonna happen.

As Your mani is 'virgin' , your double platinum. :D
 
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