Edelbrock / RHS heads, or go BIG block and put it to bed!

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My 340 has 3.91 gears and only a 25 1/2 inch tall tire. Around town its great, maybe could use 4.10 gears for best power range, HOWEVER its too much on the freeways @ 75 mph, runs fine but engine doesn't have to spin all so much. Think 29 inch tires would be best then--expect I''m around town more than on the freeways.

3.73 gears and a 28 inch tire is great for high speed use but for 1/4 mile runs, ugh, put a 4.56 gear in.
 
T67POWER said:
What converter stall speed do you have and at what rpm did the engine make peak torque at????
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I'm very sure i have the TCI 2500 break away converter? Paper work very hard to read. Keep in mind they were trying to help me keep it streetable.
My Peak torque was from what I can tell was about 3600 rpm ?
 
Besides poor machine work on the eddies, I also hear the aluminum isn't the best quality either...I'm not buying them.

Heck find some old W-2 heads if you want the best power, IMO
 
No issues with the aluminum I've ever heard about. Some casting core shift issues that pop up occasionally but that's fairly rare. The finish machining is not that good but the gasket matching takes care of that. Not even close to the issues that the W5s had. First set was used in 2003. The valve jobs never improved...lol.
 
moper said:
Bull puckies! lol
I run OOTB RPMs with valve jobs corrected and gasket matched on my strokers and they make 450-490hp depending on the combo. That's about 240-245 on a street cammed engine (.497 @ the retainer) by the numbers. And that's more than one set of them over years. So I can't agree with that.
That being said - The comparison is not apples to apples. The RHS are ready to bolt on for $1350+S7H from Brian. They are purchased as bare castings so if you buy them, your shop may get more for the work or get worse results. RPMs come assembled but IMO are not in any condition to be run OOTB. They need the valve job fixed, special head bolts, the special Fel Pro head gaskets, and possibly upgraded springs which brings the cost to get them on the engine and running up to around $2K plus springs. RPMs are lighter and have more potential than the RHS heads. But that costs.
In this particular instance, I think Brain's heads are the better choice. Again assuming the engine is healthy and the issues it has are tuning/setup. I still don't believe it is but that's of no consequence.
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I actually talked to Brian yesterday and the guy is very smart and very cool. It will be around 1500.$ for gaskets bolts and shipping. I like the idea and convinced. However, everyone in Sac/Modesto area speed shops say the new eddy rpm heads are better then they used to be and a lot of guys run them OOTB. They do check and some times have to play with them a little. I'm going to have my motor builder and Brian see whats best. STEVE WANN and RITTIG BROS racing also do iron rhs heads(my motor builder) they might just do it in shop. ???
 
Remember that you can get RHS heads from other places than IMM, I am sure they are great, but why is that the only place people here talk about getting them from. I don't think the average motor needs 300 dollar behive valve spring or ferrea valves. If your springs and keepers are still close to being new why not re use them if they match your cam, isnt there a place local to you that does performance valve jobs?
 
fcm42000 said:
Remember that you can get RHS heads from other places than IMM, I am sure they are great, but why is that the only place people here talk about getting them from. I don't think the average motor needs 300 dollar behive valve spring or ferrea valves. If your springs and keepers are still close to being new why not re use them if they match your cam, isnt there a place local to you that does performance valve jobs?
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Because our heads are the best QUALITY and BARGAIN! And our CS is second to NONE!!
Having said that, DusterDoug has had great results doing his own deal with the RHS heads so that's proof you don't HAVE to get them from us.
We just put together a great package deal that works well, takes alot of abuse and will last a long time.
Because of the low installed height these heads exhibit when assembled with no spring pad work, it takes a really short spring. Those tend to wear out quicker than a taller spring. And if you do cut the spring pad down for the larger O.D. spring you take a serious chance of breaking into water or the roof of the intake port.
So be warned!!
The beehive spring fits the bill perfectly. And as for the Ferrea valves....neither they or Manley would do custom valves for us in any amount in their "budget" line so we are stuck with the higher end valve.
But they are tough as nails and will handle high compression, high rpm and NOS-Turbo-Blown applications at will.
Not bad for under 1400.00 complete.
Brian
 
moper said:
No issues with the aluminum I've ever heard about. Some casting core shift issues that pop up occasionally but that's fairly rare. The finish machining is not that good but the gasket matching takes care of that. Not even close to the issues that the W5s had. First set was used in 2003. The valve jobs never improved...lol.
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Well this is what I seen posted on another forum and Joe SHERMAN RACING agree with the dudes post. Joe is an old man now, in his 70's, been doing this all his life. Posts are 5 years ago but what has been getting better since then--nothing, lol Again I'm not spending my money on Eddie heads, not when there are other heads to buy...........................................................................................................................http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...oved-edelbrock-60379-heads-afr-165-heads.html

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...oved-edelbrock-60379-heads-afr-165-heads.html


If you are worried about stripping the threads in aluminum heads, you may want to have a pro do the installation.

The OEM does not used Helicoils in their heads and for years they've never pulled a thread.

I will tell you most of the reason Edelbrock "has to" put Helicoils in their heads. It's because the raw material used in their castings is poor, very poor quality. Many times I've had to weld up pin holes and porosity issues when rebuilding these heads. I'd be surprised if the base aluminum casting could hold any torque at all!
 
Those eddys should be flowing in the 275 cfm range OOTB for the cost.
They should a;ready flow what a full ported j does OOTB
Otherwise...whats the point....it's just a boarder line race piece that needs TLC [or as much as the org purchase price to get them worked] to make the hor$e power.
Im just bent that the buttlers have 30 heads to choose from that flow 280-300 ootb
and we have about 4 choices that only go 245cfm that will accept stock int/exh patterns.
JMO
 
Didn't read the whole thread, but changing the heads to eddy's and keeping the cam you have won't give you that much more. If you want to change to better flowing heads, change the cam to take advantage of the flow, otherwise it's a waste, IMO.
 
moper said:
Bull puckies! lol
I run OOTB RPMs with valve jobs corrected and gasket matched on my strokers and they make 450-490hp depending on the combo. That's about 240-245 on a street cammed engine (.497 @ the retainer) by the numbers. And that's more than one set of them over years. So I can't agree with that.
That being said - The comparison is not apples to apples. The RHS are ready to bolt on for $1350+S7H from Brian. They are purchased as bare castings so if you buy them, your shop may get more for the work or get worse results. RPMs come assembled but IMO are not in any condition to be run OOTB. They need the valve job fixed, special head bolts, the special Fel Pro head gaskets, and possibly upgraded springs which brings the cost to get them on the engine and running up to around $2K plus springs. RPMs are lighter and have more potential than the RHS heads. But that costs.
In this particular instance, I think Brain's heads are the better choice. Again assuming the engine is healthy and the issues it has are tuning/setup. I still don't believe it is but that's of no consequence.
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What part of at .400 didn't get through... In essence that's the real port #'s he's going to access with that cam and bad pushrod angles.

Even at .500 or as you mention, .497 at retainer, the ede doesn't come close to the 260-270 numbers the rhs head goes... The RHS is consistently ahead of the ede at all lifts above 300 by a solid 20 cfm. Those are from the same bench, so it's apples to apples.

The RHS does the 450-500+ with NO PORT WORK whatsoever on strokers! No port matching, no guide slimming, no extra work except how Brian does them up blending the bottom cut. I really wish Brian had more time to do a back to back on these things, his RHS set up and an OOTB ede configuration (even with the VJ corrected).

I do agree with the comment that the RHS are a better choice, better parts, better machine work.

I just think it's stupid to spend more money for a product, that's inferior in design, only because it's aluminum. Pick your parts, spend your money where you see fit. I know I'll NEVER buy another set of ede's unless they are a smoking deal and I want somewhere in the 550-600hp range. Other than that, there are MUCH better choices out there.

It's all good.
 
When tuned in with the correct spacer under the new 750 carb and using the new set of larger intake port cylinder heads, your torque band will be higher.

I would say your starting to get close to a 4000 rpm converter with the new set up.

It's safe to say at least a 3500 stall converter.

Try a dynamic (frank lupo) 9 1/2 inch 3500 stall.

You might even want a 4000 grand converter.

What intake are you running???? You might be in the market for a new one.
 
Reading this makes me glad I bought the RHS heads from Brian. I am sure Eddy heads are good too but for my stroker motor I think I chose right.
 
I can't believe i miss read the post.:read2:
I READ THREW IT TO FAST-- I thought you had a 318..................lolololo


I remember you from a long time ago but forgot you had a 360.

I just went threw the post again and it all makes my eyes bug out of my head.

You have way more engine power to be had with just a carb.

That 360 should be going over 104 mph and close to 13.00 if not 12 seconds.

With just a converter and a carb you should be going 12.50's
With a new set of heads it could go low 12 second ET'S easy.
I love tuning cars just like yours with a new 4150 carb.
I would have that car going 12's with just a carb change.
I bet i could do it in 5 runs.

I wish you where closer to upstate ny.
 
ou812 said:
Because our heads are the best QUALITY and BARGAIN! And our CS is second to NONE!!
Having said that, DusterDoug has had great results doing his own deal with the RHS heads so that's proof you don't HAVE to get them from us.
We just put together a great package deal that works well, takes alot of abuse and will last a long time.
Because of the low installed height these heads exhibit when assembled with no spring pad work, it takes a really short spring. Those tend to wear out quicker than a taller spring. And if you do cut the spring pad down for the larger O.D. spring you take a serious chance of breaking into water or the roof of the intake port.
So be warned!!
The beehive spring fits the bill perfectly. And as for the Ferrea valves....neither they or Manley would do custom valves for us in any amount in their "budget" line so we are stuck with the higher end valve.
But they are tough as nails and will handle high compression, high rpm and NOS-Turbo-Blown applications at will.
Not bad for under 1400.00 complete.
Brian
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian !
My builder and I are talking Friday. He just wants to go over the build sheet. We should be all set. My other performance guy in Pacifca at BACCAS performance Also named Brian builds his heads like yours !!! Nice work.
 
That engine should at least be 320 horse to the rear wheels and about 370 to the crank.
The torque should be over 400 foot pounds.

Something is way off and i am willing to bet that it's the carb.

I would not be so taken back if it was a 318 with stock 318 heads.
BUT...........you have a 360.

Lets put it this way.
A good running 318 with your set up could go 13.50 for sure.
Now take off 4 tenths of a second ET just for the increase to 360 cubes.
You get 13.10 ET'S......

Your 360 has a very good cam in it and everything is ready to GO.

I would say that the converter was holding you way back but with the low mph that you have ,it isn't just the converter.

Your not making your max horse power.

That engines good for another 50 horses..........:thumbup:
 
T67POWER said:
That engine should at least be 320 horse to the rear wheels and about 370 to the crank.
The torque should be over 400 foot pounds.

Something is way off and i am willing to bet that it's the carb.

I would not be so taken back if it was a 318 with stock 318 heads.
BUT...........you have a 360.

Lets put it this way.
A good running 318 with your set up could go 13.50 for sure.
Now take off 4 tenths of a second ET just for the increase to 360 cubes.
You get 13.10 ET'S......

Your 360 has a very good cam in it and everything is ready to GO.

I would say that the converter was holding you way back but with the low mph that you have ,it isn't just the converter.

Your not making your max horse power.

That engines good for another 50 horses..........:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Hmm...my built 340 spd car went 13.80 on street tires at 104 with tire sprin.
Uh what combo is he running??
 
Hey wild&crazy...
That's 12 second mph.
Take it from me,I have been running a B body for over 15 years and it's always had small blocks in it for power.

It's going 12.89 at 103 with a 1.74 60 foot time.
It's really not that fast but it's worked it's way from 18 second quarters down to the twelves over the years and it all started with a smoking 318.
If i was using a small A body,it would have went about 4 tenths quicker at every stage.
Hell,it would be going 12.49 right now with the weight reduction and with more mph to boot.
Plus any gain in 60 foot makes it even faster.
It would be in the low twelves.
I only have around 390 to 395 horse and that's pushing it.
It's more like 380 with a ton of torque.

He has a fast car that hasn't gone any where near it's potential.

If he does the heads and carb plus the converter he could have a shot at the elevens.
4.56 gears will make it happen for sure.
 
I agree with Moper on whole lot of what he wrote. While the Indy head has it merits as well, alot depends on what exactly your doing with the build.

1W&CG, you should know and I am surprised you even wrote what you did. Higher performance equals higher dollors spent....period. OOTB condition/flow rates need not apply, though, I agree, it shold.

Moper, we have a IMM/IRHS head flag waver and theres nothing anyone can do about it until the next great head comes out and the work is done cheaper than the flag he waves.

I can find it now, but ....

The mention of heli coiling aluminum heads.... Heli coils are stronger. Putting a steel/iron bolt into a aluminum heads is... UGH I almost can't beileve I have to write this out.

2 dis-similar metals! Torqued on top of it. Longevity? Hard metal vs. soft metal.

OMG! OK, next.. the link to another forum about the head issue.

Wait! How do I know those heads are freshly casted? How long have they been on a shelf? How o I know that this guy didn't screw up and is blaming the part/casting/someone for his screw up? IS it possible he's passing the buck?

Look haed enuff and you'll find someone someplace is bitching about someone you tout and trust as the best. There bitchin about the part. The machine work. Something is allways being bitched at.

To find one thread from one meatball *** hat or a few dozen doesn't make that part a bad part. Or the machinest bad. It could be something else.

Don't worry, the RHS head is new and it'll have issues soon enuff. After all, or did we all forget allready that "INDY" has some of the worst customer support ever invented (I save the worst for Paxton!) and RHS is INDY!

HELLLLLLLLLO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Most of this thread has turned into the normal pissing match. What a shame. Blind people! Stuck on stupid half the time.
 
rumblefish360 said:
1W&CG, you should know and I am surprised you even wrote what you did. Higher performance equals higher dollors spent....period. OOTB condition/flow rates need not apply, though, I agree, it shold.
Click to expand...

Not always, the tune is where most of the hp is found, and thats free, so is doing your own porting...I think you know where Im going with this.
I come from lil money, notice I'm not waving the rhs flag...

As for my statement, app specific...if Hughes or somebody else can do my factory iron to the tune of 280-300 cfm for the same money as a ootb eddy that only flows 240, I'm putting money where it counts=airflow.

This is my opinion and no body should surprised by it at this point..lol
 
Rumble, all these are opinions. No biggie. It's all about individual's experiences and knowledge. Those are all unique to us all so you get debate. No problems here. My single biggest complaint with Brian's package is he's in CA and I'm in CT nad these things weigh a ton. The shop I use will not be able to match his pricing, but add another $100 or more for shipping, plus the fact that it keeps my local shop supported, and I'll use the RHS when I need to.
RHS are not my first choice for weight, bling factor, geometry, or potential. OOTB (albeit valve job fixed on the RPMs and a good 5 angle valve job like Brian does) flow wise the RPMs are the RHS equal, have more potential down the line, and are a bit lighter. I stand by my opinon. As Cracked stands by his. And like he said - it's all good.

BTW - Do some research into why heli-coil thread inserts are used. They have much higher strength than the base metal. That includes iron, BTW. OEMs dont use them unless they have to because they are more labor intensive and expensive compared to designing in a longer bolt or finer thread pitch where needed.
 
Pick your parts, spend your money... :-D

I just had a heli-coil fest with some ede's I own... yeah that was fun!
 
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