WOW! Took awhile for that answer to pop up. i'll say it again after Dodge freak did. No! 17,000 aint crap for a head change.
Thanks for the break down. Your right, I have a solid car just needs tweaking. One more thing, is 17,000 mile on the motor to high do do a head job. I would hate to start chasing motor repairs.
Thanks!
You have helped me before. Small block it is. Its cheaper and easier. Im concerned that a few have said Im down on power as it is now(mean somethings wrong?). Edelbrock said since i have the eddy manifold and carb we should be good to go with mild porting. Can you give me the complete info for Brian and IMM ? RHS is also cheaper!
One more big question i'm at 17,000 miles after the 2 year build. Is it still worth it to do or to late. motor runs strong.
Thanks again
heads were done at the motor builder. im sure not a real pro job. done with a hand polisher. no flow test. whats a leak down test? I bet if i put edelbrock heads on the motor would bring it back up to where it should be?
I just did a set of eddy heads, 2.02 valve, heavy porting, and they go 275cfm at .500 and 283cfm at .550 and then quit flowing more air. That cost 850.00 with valve job...a bit more flow than the RHS but not enough to warrant the cost IMO.
Brian
(I'm going to have to send you my Edel. Heads one day....)
Brians post is what I often refur to and mostly in the highlighted bold. If your engine isn't really more than a mild hop up over stock, the Edel. heads are not really worth the money invested. While IMO, the head (Edelbrock) is a good head for street and light strip, the expense vs performance return on a mild mill is not what I would call a big bang for the buck.
In this area, I suggest ethier porting the OE head or going to a brand new head in which these days IMO, would be the Indy/RHS head. Alot depends on exactly what your doing, where you wanna go with it and what is allready done to the engine.
Looking at your basic build info, it is not much more than a stock set up with a few extra goodies on top. This type of build was very common in the old days on top of stock short blocks. Your cam timing and lift are still on the small side. Though it will for surely make good power, it is still a streetable 100% of the time combonation of parts.
To really take advantage of the Edelbrock head, (OOTB adv. flow rates at least) I would be looking at least another 10* of duration and .550 lift at a min. amount. (In which actual at the valve lift will be slightly less than .550.)
.....Just understand that it's low for what you have for parts. What I think might be the case, is the lower end is not blueprinted and the static compression is lower, and/or the heads have problems, and/or the cam or installtion has problems, and/or the tuning is off. But, I would anticipate if the engine had ported heads (assuming mild and average quality) and a 280/.480 hydraulic cam, with 9.5:1 and the parts you mention, that you would have closer to 375-390hp and be running closer to 107 in the 1/4. Which is high 12s and what I would expect to see a 360 A body running.
....
thanks.
my average 60' times were 1.93 with slicks. i was going to put 4.11 gears in the rear for quicker times but i would like to get 300 hp to the wheels, and up my trq. Im just trying to tweak the car a bit for a good drivable street car.
Put an 850 Holley DP on it!
You have everything you need in the engine to go in the 12 second range.
Your mph is very good for the cars ET.
Your 60 foot times are way off.
Remember that 1 tenth of a second in 60 foot is worth 2 tenths on the end of the track.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I had to guess I would say the car is very slow off the line and getting good traction OR spinning it's wheels.
Knowing the answer to this question would help?????(spinning or hooking)
Also...What is your stall speed and gear ratio??????????
And where did your engine make it's peak torque on the dyno????
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
A) If it's spinning then adjust the pinion snubber 1/2 inch from the floor and keep the tire pressure as hard as possible without spinning ,plus make sure that a good burnout was performed.
B)If it's hooking good then it's the carb that needs adjusting.
________________________________________________________________
Having a good TORQUE CONVERTER BASED ON THE DYNO INFORMATION would help you out the most in the sixty foot.
You have enough power to go 12's.
Make it hook and keep the engine in it's max power band and your there.
Installing a set of heads next is the ticket.
I would change the cam last.
D-Problem? Eddy or RHS heads? Eddys are 1600$ ready to go and RHS from IMM are 1350$ ready to go. My engine builder STEVE WANN(race champion hemi bracket) is going to have to decide. I cant !
Those eddys wont make near as much power as the rhs's, unless he does some serious porting to them. Is $1600 for the eddies with any of the correction machine work that's required to fix the guides and crappy valve job, or just OOTB. If OOTB, those eddies are not that good. Better than a factory X/J head, yes, better than Brians RHS set up, no fricken way!
Ede's go about 215 cfm at .400 lift which is what you will be accessing, the rhs go somewhere in the 240's at .400. There's some good power to be gained there, better chamber... and the RHS are not ported one bit.