EFI fuel tank module for stock tanks

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So rednesss,
are you going with the spectra pump? just to make sure I am following correctly, there have been a couple of suggestions for pumps on here.
Thanks
 
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I've started this. Picture of spare tank hacked off on passenger side. Will get some 18/20 gauge and use a bread roller to put some rigidity to it too make replacement panel. This tank metal looks galvanized so ill probably get galvy. I hate welding galvy. Still getting pump figured, ill make a "slosh" tray once i get one.... what do you guys think? 1" tall with a drain hole on the high side? How are those designed? Enjoying this.
 
rednesss said:
I'm going to use this in conjunction with a GM fuel filter/regulator (WIX Filters Fuel Filters 33737) for my fitech TBI
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Yeah you won't need that. The fitec had its own regulator. Just need a standard EFI filter.

Also the the float on the ebody spectra may need a little tweak to reach full. I was messing with the one I have and it appears it contacts the spare tire cut out.
 
myduster360 said:
Yeah you won't need that. The fitec had its own regulator. Just need a standard EFI filter.

Also the the float on the ebody spectra may need a little tweak to reach full. I was messing with the one I have and it appears it contacts the spare tire cut out.
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I understand that the fitech unit has a built in regulator, but I don't want to run another line the whole way for a return line. Using this, is no different than using the FCC currently. Inside the FCC is a return/pressure regulator, and there is only one line ran to the TBI. Mounting the GM filter/regulator closer to the tank accomplishes the same thing that is happening inside of the FCC without having the FCC take up room in your engine compartment and also get hot.
 
clementine said:
So rednesss,
are you going with the spectra pump? just to make sure I am following correctly, there have been a couple of suggestions for pumps on here.
Thanks
Click to expand...

I ordered the exact part in the link from RockAuto. I might switch out the fuel pump with a Walbro 450 pump that I already have that is capable of PWM. I would use the fuel wire from the fitech and wire it into a solid state relay if I go that route.
 
rednesss said:
I understand that the fitech unit has a built in regulator, but I don't want to run another line the whole way for a return line. Using this, is no different than using the FCC currently. Inside the FCC is a return/pressure regulator, and there is only one line ran to the TBI. Mounting the GM filter/regulator closer to the tank accomplishes the same thing that is happening inside of the FCC without having the FCC take up room in your engine compartment and also get hot.
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Ok sure, just don't forget to cap off the Fitech's return,,lol
 
rednesss said:
I ordered the exact part in the link from RockAuto. I might switch out the fuel pump with a Walbro 450 pump that I already have that is capable of PWM. I would use the fuel wire from the fitech and wire it into a solid state relay if I go that route.
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From what I understand if you run a relay to your pump you need to keep the fuel pump setting at 100% if not the pump may shut off totally. I could be wrong but I would look into it before putting in a relay with the FiTech.
 
Rudy`s Ride said:
From what I understand if you run a relay to your pump you need to keep the fuel pump setting at 100% if not the pump may shut off totally. I could be wrong but I would look into it before putting in a relay with the FiTech.
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I would suggest you doing some research on SOLID STATE RELAYS and their ability to do PULSE WIDTH MODULATION.
 
So I received the Spectra part and can say that there's no way, short of a bunch of grinding and cutting, that the Holley hydramat can be fitted to this setup. It has got me to thinking about putting a bunch of small fuel foam cubes in the tank to make a baffle of sorts, but I think that might mess with the fuel sender float.
 
The hydramat has a bigger diameter plastic piece where it attached to the 11mm output. The metal bracket at the bottom has a much smaller diameter hole in it to allow the standard sock to push on it.
 
I can post picture tonight. But basically if you look at the hydramat picture in your #1 post, see the shape of the plastic 11 mm output that looks like a flower with the 7 or 8 little holes in it? It's much bigger that the hole in the bottom of the fuel pump bracket.
 
You only need 1 to fit over the stud on the fuel pump. the rest are only to allow indexing the filter for varying applications.

If the unused retaining ears are causing interference, just snip them off with a pair of side cutters.
 
so in a situation where i have access to build a tray/baffle, this pump will work in the configuration that it is shipped...ie with its stock "sock"/pickup. (for reference, I have the side of my tank cut off for another reason post #37)
 
pulled the trigger on that pump. I read that its necessary to build a baffle 1/4 the height of the tank. Ill see where that puppy fishes in at when it gets here. Needs to have some holes at the bottom for fuel seepage. Ill post some pictures next week when it gets here. there is a voice in my head that says I should have gone with a top mounted pump but that would require more fabrication and Im a wild man and I learn the hard way!!!!! .....not really so wild any more to be honest....
 
Whats the benefit of an in-tank pump? Put the pump in a 1 gallon surge tank (not much bigger than an overflow tank in the engine bay) feed it with your stock electric/mechanical pump + fuel rail pressure bypass and run the return out the top of the surge tank back to the rear tank. No chance of exposing the inlet on cornering, and little chance of pump contamination due to fuel sock and stock inline filter (EFI micron rated) prior to surge tank. I must say that it looks a hell of a lot easier to change out than a tank dropping top mount EFI.
 
That is true. Ill think about that. I am using the stock hole with the OPs hack, but I had not thought about contamination. Putting in a baffle at this point for me is no biggie. I guess the benefit of an in tank pump for me is ability to run EFI and have it be more quiet than an inline (not that your design has an inline, just that it is a usual alternative with various aftermarket EFI solutions). Ill check out the surge tank design you wrote about. So to be clear, a surge tank could be a 1 gallon fuel cell tucked under the front fender that has a submerged pump? and the return line from a fuel rail or TBI back to cell and then back to tank? Sorry if Im not getting this right at this point, new systems for me. I have not run return lines in the past, just dead head situations.
Thanks!
 
jos51700 said:
Doesn't have to be a hydramat. The Chrysler OEM setup had a "container" around the pump.

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thinking bout using this type pump tank and lines of a seabring on a duster with a sniper or a fitech 58 to 61 psi with regulator in tank with pump! no idea if itll work but free is cheap enuff to try it!
 
dirty white boy said:
thinking bout using this type pump tank and lines of a seabring on a duster with a sniper or a fitech 58 to 61 psi with regulator in tank with pump! no idea if itll work but free is cheap enuff to try it!
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This was my plan, using a mid-90's Ram pump (since I'm running a Magnum, makes it easy). I had to make a threaded flange on a lathe though, and I will eventually weld/braze it to a new tank. Access port in trunk, done.
 
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