Electric fans and shroud recommendations

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If you decide to run a mechanical fan assy with or without a clutch keep in mind there are larger diameter blades available for either. I have a MP clutch with a larger fan blade assy on it on my street car and the engine stays at 180 even in the heat (only 100 here in Massachusetts) although I must say the biggest contributer of heat is an automatic transmission. My car is a stick and runs way cooler than when it had an automatic in it 20 years ago. Again street car, not my Valiant.

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4 small fans at 7" each pushes/ pulls 1500cfm, have them set to come on via megasquirt. Keeps my engine cool driving in 105 degree temps. Think with having a little fun only got up to 200* but nothing higher.

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MidnightSwinger said:
Dorman 620-104 Engine Cooling Fan Assembly Compatible with Select Ford / Mercury Models , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C17G9K/?tag=fabo03-20

A little price break from summit
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RockAuto has a few different brands of this fan too, you might be able to save a few bucks if you’re close to one of their shipping centers.

It’s a great fan regardless, at the price it usually sells at I think it’s one of the best options out there.
 
I got my fans delivered that 72bluNblu recommended. I just need to order my radiator from cold case Tuesday, not that my car is anywhere near that close to install the stuff lol.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Getting ready to buy some more parts for my 70 dart stroker big block drag car, maybe later some street
I am going to buy a 26 in 2 core 1.25 tube cold case radiator.
I'm looking for a fan or fans and shroud efficient enough to cool what maybe close to mid 600 horsepower.
Let me know what you run, how you like it & anything you might think is better
Thank you all.
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Wizard radiator with (2) 1 1/4 cores with a front mounted Spal electric fan and a fan mount that they welded to the radiator. Zero cooling issues in an over 970hp small block.
 
moparstud440 said:
We have 16" electric fans on our cars. We don't run them on the street at all. My car with a 440 runs 10.7s in the 1/4. It rarely sees over 200 degrees even on a hot day and cools right now. I use the 440 source alum water pump and housing. Moroso electric motor with the large diameter gear on the motor. I run a thermostat but have the guts removed from it. On my wife's car her's has less room (1963 falcon with a 351W) we have 2 10" fans on it. We first used them as pushers and had issues cooling down. I later switched them to pullers and it made a world of difference. I think all the fans came off of eBay and are just generic cheaper ones that are supposed to pull alot of CFM.
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That's odd.....I run 1 pusher electric fan on my 970hp small block and have zero cooling issues......but I also have a REAL radiator and not some cheap 225 dollar one. Pusher fans are not a problem if everything else is up to snuff.
 
'68cuda416 said:
Wizard radiator with (2) 1 1/4 cores with a front mounted Spal electric fan and a fan mount that they welded to the radiator. Zero cooling issues in an over 970hp small block.
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Nice, I'll have to check out wizard radiator then as well.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Are you getting them out of a wrecking yard or are you buying something aftermarket? I’m more than leery of aftermarket **** that says it’s replacement but it’s never as good as OE stuff.
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Mine is an original one, no issues with the motors at all, the resistor/diode for the low speed was bad but this was on a car from the midwest, so it has a replacement one.

I don't see much of a reason to buy a new one if you can find one that isn't rusty or just plain can't find one.
 
On my 73 big block dart with a i guess 550 HP 440. I used a summit 2 core 27.5x19 aluminum Radaiator and a Ford Tours fan. It is a single blade fan that is off set some and is a 2 speed fan. I drove the dart on the street a few times and on a 90 degree day . The car never got over 190 degrees.. the dart ran 10.49 at 126 in the 1/4 at 3400 pounds.
On my 91/96 dakota sport with a 11.1 360 magnum engine. I used the factory radiator with a dual fan set up from a 06 5.7 dodge charger. It seems to cool allmost too good. I have it wired up on a toggle switch that turns both fans on at the same time. I bought a dakota Digital fan controller, just haven't installed it yet. But on my dakota I can run it up to 185 degrees and turn the fans on and in around 5 minutes the engine temp will drop down to 160 degrees.
 
'68cuda416 said:
That's odd.....I run 1 pusher electric fan on my 970hp small block and have zero cooling issues......but I also have a REAL radiator and not some cheap 225 dollar one. Pusher fans are not a problem if everything else is up to snuff.
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I probably don’t have $250 tied up in my entire cooling system and it works just fine for my application. Not everyone needs or can afford the best of the best. I’m glad your “real” radiator works for your car.
 
moparstud440 said:
I probably don’t have $250 tied up in my entire cooling system and it works just fine for my application. Not everyone needs or can afford the best of the best. I’m glad your “real” radiator works for your car.
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Thank you......my point still stands though especially with your reply........if you buy ultra cheap parts for a performance car THEY MIGHT not work adequately BUT let's put the blame where it belongs which would be ultra cheap parts and not a part design in itself.
 
'68cuda416 said:
Wizard radiator with (2) 1 1/4 cores with a front mounted Spal electric fan and a fan mount that they welded to the radiator. Zero cooling issues in an over 970hp small block.
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'68cuda416 said:
Thank you......my point still stands though especially with your reply........if you buy ultra cheap parts for a performance car THEY MIGHT not work adequately BUT let's put the blame where it belongs which would be ultra cheap parts and not a part design in itself.
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Ironically, the highest CFM rated single fan that SPAL makes is rated at 2,000 CFM. Which makes your cooling system one of the least capable posted in this thread.

Spending the most money is no guarantee you get the most capable parts, it just guarantees you spent the most.

And if a 2,000 cfm pusher is all you've ever needed to cool your 970 hp engine, well, I can guess the kind of driving you actually do, and it involves a lot more trailer than real driving.
 
72bluNblu said:
Ironically, the highest CFM rated single fan that SPAL makes is rated at 2,000 CFM. Which makes your cooling system one of the least capable posted in this thread.

Spending the most money is no guarantee you get the most capable parts, it just guarantees you spent the most.

And if a 2,000 cfm pusher is all you've ever needed to cool your 970 hp engine, well, I can guess the kind of driving you actually do, and it involves a lot more trailer than real driving.
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Sure bud.......LOL
 
All I'm going to say is my Contour fan and 26" 3 row champion radiator doesn't even need the high speed mode on the Contour fan at all. Sub-$300 cooling system working perfect for over 9 years now.
 
goldduster318 said:
All I'm going to say is my Contour fan and 26" 3 row champion radiator doesn't even need the high speed mode on the Contour fan at all. Sub-$300 cooling system working perfect for over 9 years now.
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Champion radiators are average at best and not a high performance radiator....kinda like Cold Case.......now with that said if you have average power, meaning 500-600 range then you will probably get by with average parts that are cheaper than very good parts that are needed for high horsepower setups. The higher up the power level a person goes lets one realize the inadequacies of cheaper parts......they flat won't work well.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I got my fans delivered that 72bluNblu recommended. I just need to order my radiator from cold case Tuesday, not that my car is anywhere near that close to install the stuff lol.
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Yeah, but Parts are Parts! If anything happens, You got em on Hand! Besides, the crap goes up every darn day.. grrrr
 
'68cuda416 said:
Champion radiators are average at best and not a high performance radiator....kinda like Cold Case.......now with that said if you have average power, meaning 500-600 range then you will probably get by with average parts that are cheaper than very good parts that are needed for high horsepower setups. The higher up the power level a person goes lets one realize the inadequacies of cheaper parts......they flat won't work well.
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Even if the Wizard Radiator is higher efficiency to some effect (I don't know how we can quantify that), Even their $850 pusher fan setup isn't any better than a $30 OEM Contour fan setup from a salvage yard. The contour fan on the 26" radiator covers all but about 2" of the core and since it's a puller it's not blocking it when the fan is off and you're rolling down the road at speed.

If you can repurpose an OEM part they're usually better than aftermarket or aftermarket replacement because they were made in a plant with actual quality controls and had testing done to a spec to last 150k + miles in bad environments.

470hp engine here and a wild amount of headroom in cooling. I run a 180 Thermostat and it's running right on temp so long as its over 25 mph. Fan can keep it right in the turn on range for the low speed and it's so quiet you can't hear it with the hood shut.
 
goldduster318 said:
Even if the Wizard Radiator is higher efficiency to some effect (I don't know how we can quantify that), Even their $850 pusher fan setup isn't any better than a $30 OEM Contour fan setup from a salvage yard. The contour fan on the 26" radiator covers all but about 2" of the core and since it's a puller it's not blocking it when the fan is off and you're rolling down the road at speed.

If you can repurpose an OEM part they're usually better than aftermarket or aftermarket replacement because they were made in a plant with actual quality controls and had testing done to a spec to last 150k + miles in bad environments.

470hp engine here and a wild amount of headroom in cooling. I run a 180 Thermostat and it's running right on temp so long as its over 25 mph. Fan can keep it right in the turn on range for the low speed and it's so quiet you can't hear it with the hood shut.
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In my opinion......repurposed parts look like **** on a car to be quite frank and although factory parts are better than cheap parts store trash they are NOT BETTER than high end parts that a person can purchase from whatever source he deems to be the best for his particular application. To quickly and easily prove your theory wrong what would fail sooner.....factory rocker arms or high quality like T&D or Jesel? How comfy would you feel with factory rods in your engine when you could have used high quality aftermarket pieces? Your argument has minimal at best merit.
 
goldduster318 said:
Even if the Wizard Radiator is higher efficiency to some effect (I don't know how we can quantify that), Even their $850 pusher fan setup isn't any better than a $30 OEM Contour fan setup from a salvage yard. The contour fan on the 26" radiator covers all but about 2" of the core and since it's a puller it's not blocking it when the fan is off and you're rolling down the road at speed.

If you can repurpose an OEM part they're usually better than aftermarket or aftermarket replacement because they were made in a plant with actual quality controls and had testing done to a spec to last 150k + miles in bad environments.

470hp engine here and a wild amount of headroom in cooling. I run a 180 Thermostat and it's running right on temp so long as its over 25 mph. Fan can keep it right in the turn on range for the low speed and it's so quiet you can't hear it with the hood shut.
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Also it's common knowledge that 2 cores of preferred 1 1/4' thickness is way more efficient than 3 whatever the size cores that Champion uses......again your trying to compare average at best parts with superior quality.
 
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