Electric fans and shroud recommendations

[goldduster318]

In my opinion......repurposed parts look like **** on a car to be quite frank and although factory parts are better than cheap parts store trash they are NOT BETTER than high end parts that a person can purchase from whatever source he deems to be the best for his particular application. To quickly and easily prove your theory wrong what would fail sooner.....factory rocker arms or high quality like T&D or Jesel? How comfy would you feel with factory rods in your engine when you could have used high quality aftermarket pieces? Your argument has minimal at best merit.

We're discussing fans which are motors with plastic blades attached to them. I would love to see the validation plan on most of the parts (fans especially) marketed as high-end. I doubt they have run them long enough to be anything near what an OEM part goes through.

Rods and rockers inside of their design spec, the OEM ones basically last indefinitely with good maintenance, so it's highly dependent on application.

More money doesn't equal better.

 

['68cuda416]

We're discussing fans which are motors with plastic blades attached to them. I would love to see the validation plan on most of the parts (fans especially) marketed as high-end. I doubt they have run them long enough to be anything near what an OEM part goes through.

Rods and rockers inside of their design spec, the OEM ones basically last indefinitely with good maintenance, so it's highly dependent on application.

More money doesn't equal better.

LOL.....I think I will bang my head against the table a few dozen times and then maybe your insight will make sense to me......

 

[goldduster318]

LOL.....I think I will bang my head against the table a few dozen times and then maybe your insight will make sense to me......

Feel free, might knock some sense into you. Considering I actually work on OEM parts in the auto industry, and what companies use as requirements if they are not pushed by an OEM. It's the cheapest/least testing possible. On the topic of radiators and fans, it needs to be data driven for comparison. Higher efficiency by what? We honestly don't know. Nobody publishes how many BTUs/HR a radiator can dissipate in a standard condition, on an objective measurement, there is no information. Surface area? For all I know, it could be marketing.

The shroud design has a real big effect on the effectiveness of a fan. Nobody making them out of sheet aluminum is testing or optimizing for efficiency, but they'll charge you the money.

I see a lot of cars with high end parts that just plain don't work in the real world. The Woodward Dream Cruise shows me this every year. I was at Roadkill nights waiting to get in several years ago and even mopar people "Why don't you shut your car off? it's going to overheat!", While it's running cool enough the fan is cycling on and off and my alternator can actually keep up. Without anything expensive.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

Did you get a harness? That May be worth the trip to the boneyard?

No I didn't get one but I'll see if there's one around here, problem is it's to f'n hot and I don't want to get bit by a damn rattlesnake

 

['68cuda416]

Feel free, might knock some sense into you. Considering I actually work on OEM parts in the auto industry, and what companies use as requirements if they are not pushed by an OEM. It's the cheapest/least testing possible. On the topic of radiators and fans, it needs to be data driven for comparison. Higher efficiency by what? We honestly don't know. Nobody publishes how many BTUs/HR a radiator can dissipate in a standard condition, on an objective measurement, there is no information. Surface area? For all I know, it could be marketing.

The shroud design has a real big effect on the effectiveness of a fan. Nobody making them out of sheet aluminum is testing or optimizing for efficiency, but they'll charge you the money.

I see a lot of cars with high end parts that just plain don't work in the real world. The Woodward Dream Cruise shows me this every year. I was at Roadkill nights waiting to get in several years ago and even mopar people "Why don't you shut your car off? it's going to overheat!", While it's running cool enough the fan is cycling on and off and my alternator can actually keep up. Without anything expensive.

Oh it all makes sense now, lol, your a pimp for the OEM's, lol, well I will just say this.....you do you and I will build my cars better from educated decision making and I definitely DO NOT WANT ANYTHING that modern day Chrysler has put out as far as a part.....ALL JUNK!!!! Your examples bear no weight, actually they probably support my argument far more than they do yours.....MOST GUYS BUY THE CHEAPEST PARTS they can find to put on their hot rods because "A" they are cheap and or "B" they are too stupid to know any better.....that is the number 1 reason guys have issues!!!!

 

['68cuda416]

No I didn't get one but I'll see if there's one around here, problem is it's to f'n hot and I don't want to get bit by a damn rattlesnake

I will say it right now and you can tell me I was right down the road......DO NOT put any kind of a fan controller on your car.......even the OEM's fan controllers were **** although Mr OEM himself will disagree but keep it simple and reliable....just use a thermal switch and a 2 or 3 position toggle switch depending on preference and call it a day.

 

[goldduster318]

Oh it all makes sense now, lol, your a pimp for the OEM's, lol, well I will just say this.....you do you and I will build my cars better from educated decision making and I definitely DO NOT WANT ANYTHING that modern day Chrysler has put out as far as a part.....ALL JUNK!!!! Your examples bear no weight, actually they probably support my argument far more than they do yours.....MOST GUYS BUY THE CHEAPEST PARTS they can find to put on their hot rods because "A" they are cheap and or "B" they are too stupid to know any better.....that is the number 1 reason guys have issues!!!!

Educated? More like anecdotal. You've basically said you buy expensive parts because expensive=better. That's it. Can't actually refute anything I've said whatsoever, no data presented, but big-time salty about it for some reason. Either way this is a fan topic and a bracket pusher fan is NOT better, rare to see a pusher fan ever in an OEM vehicle, doesn't matter what it is. It blocks the airflow when they are off. On a puller setup, the air flows through the radiator, then has to flow around it. With a good shroud design there is minimal "packing up" of the air. It actually gets modeled before it's made in production on an OEM design.

You have presented zero actual data. Modern Chrysler built a production car, an SUV, and a pickup that makes ~707 HP on pump gas that you can beat on all day with a warranty. Just works. Stays cool. It's almost like people know what they are doing.

I will say it right now and you can tell me I was right down the road......DO NOT put any kind of a fan controller on your car.......even the OEM's fan controllers were **** although Mr OEM himself will disagree but keep it simple and reliable....just use a thermal switch and a 2 or 3 position toggle switch depending on preference and call it a day.

Heat makes electrical devices fail. The controller can sit in your car in ambient temperature while reading the sending unit for your dash gage or an independent one if you choose. Not any less reliable at all. All it does is read a sender and ground a relay according to it's program.

I have literally never had an issue with any OEM fan controller or OEM fan. Ever. Failures are really rare. Most OEM cars it's the ECM grounding a relay and that's it. That's all the Dakota Digital controller does as well. But the controller allows you to use a dual speed fan or control fans independently. Offers some nice flexibility.

 

[Matts440]

Champion radiators are average at best and not a high performance radiator....kinda like Cold Case.......now with that said if you have average power, meaning 500-600 range then you will probably get by with average parts that are cheaper than very good parts that are needed for high horsepower setups. The higher up the power level a person goes lets one realize the inadequacies of cheaper parts......they flat won't work well.

Mines a champion with the 4 7" fans rated at 1500 cfm each, and these cool my engine easy and driving on the street and some small hits till its more tuned in. Plus mechanical water pump due to being street/strip set up.

 

['68cuda416]

Educated? More like anecdotal. You've basically said you buy expensive parts because expensive=better. That's it. Can't actually refute anything I've said whatsoever, no data presented, but big-time salty about it for some reason. Either way this is a fan topic and a bracket pusher fan is NOT better, rare to see a pusher fan ever in an OEM vehicle, doesn't matter what it is. It blocks the airflow when they are off. On a puller setup, the air flows through the radiator, then has to flow around it. With a good shroud design there is minimal "packing up" of the air. It actually gets modeled before it's made in production on an OEM design.

You have presented zero actual data. Modern Chrysler built a production car, an SUV, and a pickup that makes ~707 HP on pump gas that you can beat on all day with a warranty. Just works. Stays cool. It's almost like people know what they are doing.



Heat makes electrical devices fail. The controller can sit in your car in ambient temperature while reading the sending unit for your dash gage or an independent one if you choose. Not any less reliable at all. All it does is read a sender and ground a relay according to it's program.

I have literally never had an issue with any OEM fan controller or OEM fan. Ever. Failures are really rare. Most OEM cars it's the ECM grounding a relay and that's it. That's all the Dakota Digital controller does as well. But the controller allows you to use a dual speed fan or control fans independently. Offers some nice flexibility.

You remind me of a phrase...."educated idiot" thank goodness some people will probably listen to your physcho babble as your brainwashed philosphy of using OEM modern day parts on old hot rods is insane and ridiculous. I will just let the "non" mouth breathers ask me for my educated and intelligent opinions since my stuff has proven to be not only BAD AS **** but also extremely reliable as a street/strip package with well over 950hp so yeah I know what i'm talking about when I speak from real world experiences and not some lab rat pencil jockey that pushes paper for the OEM's......LOL

 

['68cuda416]

Mines a champion with the 4 7" fans rated at 1500 cfm each, and these cool my engine easy and driving on the street and some small hits till its more tuned in. Plus mechanical water pump due to being street/strip set up.

View attachment 1715979949

Congratulations......I still think Champion radiators are a piece of **** when comparing them to real radiator companies that build for real performance.

 

[Matts440]

Congratulations......I still think Champion radiators are a piece of **** when comparing them to real radiator companies that build for real performance.

That's fine, not all brands work out for everyone. To each is their own. Personally never heard of wizard till you posted about it. They look like some very good product.

 

[goldduster318]

You remind me of a phrase...."educated idiot" thank goodness some people will probably listen to your physcho babble as your brainwashed philosphy of using OEM modern day parts on old hot rods is insane and ridiculous. I will just let the "non" mouth breathers ask me for my educated and intelligent opinions since my stuff has proven to be not only BAD AS **** but also extremely reliable as a street/strip package with well over 950hp so yeah I know what i'm talking about when I speak from real world experiences and not some lab rat pencil jockey that pushes paper for the OEM's......LOL

Can't refute anything, no data, goes right to name calling and personal attacks. Post dripping with narcissism. Speaks volumes. I don't care what you like, but saying it doesn't work or it's brainwashed or psycho is just plain sticking your head in the sand.

The thing is, if something is studied long enough, it gets improved. This is why you can get better parts from newer vehicles. Even your car probably has a core design that was done by an OEM supplier first. Want to buy it because it's made in USA or you like it, fine, I don't care at all. I am just asking where there is any data? Also "Street" and "Reliable" mean different things to different people. Can you sit in a traffic jam for an hour on a 90+ degree day and not get hot while letting it idle?

There really are a lot of junk aftermarket parts that aren't cheap either. Magnumforce being the best example in the mopar world.

My car has been together for 9 years and well over 10k, just works, no problems ever, huge amount of cooling headroom, 72blu has the same setup and he drives it a lot more than I do, and it's been a similar amount of time. That's a real world experience also. So is Matts440's or anyone else's.

I'm really a utilitarian person, I would use the best part for an application that is most cost effective and does the job, and that's most people. I think that was also the point of this topic.

Either case, the OP's radiator + a contour fan should do well.

 

['68cuda416]

Can't refute anything, no data, goes right to name calling and personal attacks. Post dripping with narcissism. Speaks volumes. I don't care what you like, but saying it doesn't work or it's brainwashed or psycho is just plain sticking your head in the sand.

The thing is, if something is studied long enough, it gets improved. This is why you can get better parts from newer vehicles. Even your car probably has a core design that was done by an OEM supplier first. Want to buy it because it's made in USA or you like it, fine, I don't care at all. I am just asking where there is any data? Also "Street" and "Reliable" mean different things to different people. Can you sit in a traffic jam for an hour on a 90+ degree day and not get hot while letting it idle?

There really are a lot of junk aftermarket parts that aren't cheap either. Magnumforce being the best example in the mopar world.

My car has been together for 9 years and well over 10k, just works, no problems ever, huge amount of cooling headroom, 72blu has the same setup and he drives it a lot more than I do, and it's been a similar amount of time. That's a real world experience also. So is Matts440's or anyone else's.

I'm really a utilitarian person, I would use the best part for an application that is most cost effective and does the job, and that's most people. I think that was also the point of this topic.

Either case, the OP's radiator + a contour fan should do well.

It may serve him well but as I stated 7 different times already IF YOU HAVE AVERAGE POWER then you probably will get by with average or junk *** used parts that came off of junk *** Ford Contours.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

It may serve him well but as I stated 7 different times already IF YOU HAVE AVERAGE POWER then you probably will get by with average or junk *** used parts that came off of junk *** Ford Contours.

I think it will work fine for me, it's going into a dedicated drag car 471 stroker, (going on Dyno in October) with a cold case 26 inch 2 core 1.25 inch tube radiator.
If it doesn't do what I need with over 3000 cfm I'll sell it , keep it for something else & try something else.
I've found it's a pretty popular upgrade fan setup that works for a lot of applications .

 

[72bluNblu]

Also it's common knowledge that 2 cores of preferred 1 1/4' thickness is way more efficient than 3 whatever the size cores that Champion uses......again your trying to compare average at best parts with superior quality.

Not common knowledge at all. Tube diameter is only one part of radiator design. Just like number of cores is only one part. If the tubes get too large, they don't efficiently transfer heat across the entire cross section of the tube. Under laminar flow the water "in the middle" isn't contacting the walls of the tube, which is where the heat exchange takes place. But too many cores can be an issue, since the air moving through the radiator is warming as it goes from front to back. The last core sees warmer air, so it can transfer less out.

Without actual data though you can't say a 2 core 1.25" tube radiator cools better than a 3 core .75" tube radiator. Depends on the water flow numbers, air flow numbers, surface area, number of fins, etc. etc.

So no, just because you spent a **** load on a 2 core radiator with big tubes does not mean it actually cools better. The whole "bigger tubes cool better" trope is just an advertising gimmick, without the data it doesn't mean anything.

I will say it right now and you can tell me I was right down the road......DO NOT put any kind of a fan controller on your car.......even the OEM's fan controllers were **** although Mr OEM himself will disagree but keep it simple and reliable....just use a thermal switch and a 2 or 3 position toggle switch depending on preference and call it a day.

Lol. Manual switching an electric fan is the dumbest way to do it. That's race car only BS. Most thermal switches only activate at one temperature, which makes them a poor choice for a two speed fan. The biggest efficiency gain from having an electric fan is only running it when it needs to be run, and optimizing the temperature range so it matches where your engine makes power. The best way to do that is a fan controller. And yeah, all modern cars use a fan controller and pretty much all of them will go 100k miles or more without an issue.

But let's get real, you have a car that spends 99.9% of it's time in the garage or on a trailer. A 2,000 CFM SPAL wouldn't keep my car cool even with half as much horspower as you have, which means you never drive your car under anything even close to resembling the conditions I drive in. Which makes your set up pretty much useless for anyone that actually DRIVES. Like I said before, out of this entire thread you have the least capable cooling system.

I mean, you admit this much, which means you probably drive even less than this. So let's see what your car does and doesn't do...

I would get up on the freeway but will admit I wasn't going 75 like everybody else as I didn't like the constant 4k plus rpm's.

Ok, won't go 75 on the freeway...

I don't drive to the track although when I first started racing I would drive 10 miles to meet up some friends that had a trailer and they would tow me.......didn't mind the drive at all before going to the track but was always leary of deer when I was driving home at midnight or later.

Gets trailered to the track

I think most would choose to not put 50 miles one way to work on their very nice or restored Mopar

Never goes more than 50 miles one way

130 miles round trip driving to the track and back?? Props to you for doing that....my main concern for not really wanting to do that is the subsequent damage that comes from being on the highways that long.....rock chips, running over something in the road, accident with huge delays, etc.

130 miles round trip? Nope.

So there you have it folks, if you never go faster than 75, never drive more than 50 miles one way, and trailer everywhere you go then @'68cuda416 has a really expensive, less efficient cooling system to sell you on.

 

['68cuda416]

Not common knowledge at all. Tube diameter is only one part of radiator design. Just like number of cores is only one part. If the tubes get too large, they don't efficiently transfer heat across the entire cross section of the tube. Under laminar flow the water "in the middle" isn't contacting the walls of the tube, which is where the heat exchange takes place. But too many cores can be an issue, since the air moving through the radiator is warming as it goes from front to back. The last core sees warmer air, so it can transfer less out.

Without actual data though you can't say a 2 core 1.25" tube radiator cools better than a 3 core .75" tube radiator. Depends on the water flow numbers, air flow numbers, surface area, number of fins, etc. etc.

So no, just because you spent a **** load on a 2 core radiator with big tubes does not mean it actually cools better. The whole "bigger tubes cool better" trope is just an advertising gimmick, without the data it doesn't mean anything.



Lol. Manual switching an electric fan is the dumbest way to do it. That's race car only BS. Most thermal switches only activate at one temperature, which makes them a poor choice for a two speed fan. The biggest efficiency gain from having an electric fan is only running it when it needs to be run, and optimizing the temperature range so it matches where your engine makes power. The best way to do that is a fan controller. And yeah, all modern cars use a fan controller and pretty much all of them will go 100k miles or more without an issue.

But let's get real, you have a car that spends 99.9% of it's time in the garage or on a trailer. A 2,000 CFM SPAL wouldn't keep my car cool even with half as much horspower as you have, which means you never drive your car under anything even close to resembling the conditions I drive in. Which makes your set up pretty much useless for anyone that actually DRIVES. Like I said before, out of this entire thread you have the least capable cooling system.

I mean, you admit this much, which means you probably drive even less than this. So let's see what your car does and doesn't do...


Ok, won't go 75 on the freeway...



Gets trailered to the track



Never goes more than 50 miles one way



130 miles round trip? Nope.

So there you have it folks, if you never go faster than 75, never drive more than 50 miles one way, and trailer everywhere you go then @'68cuda416 has a really expensive, less efficient cooling system to sell you on.

LOL.....circle jerkers......LOL........your brains are spinning and you make zero sense......I feel bad for the guys that take your advice.....although most of them build clown wheel circle jerker type piles anyway so they probably like your advice.

 

['68cuda416]

Not common knowledge at all. Tube diameter is only one part of radiator design. Just like number of cores is only one part. If the tubes get too large, they don't efficiently transfer heat across the entire cross section of the tube. Under laminar flow the water "in the middle" isn't contacting the walls of the tube, which is where the heat exchange takes place. But too many cores can be an issue, since the air moving through the radiator is warming as it goes from front to back. The last core sees warmer air, so it can transfer less out.

Without actual data though you can't say a 2 core 1.25" tube radiator cools better than a 3 core .75" tube radiator. Depends on the water flow numbers, air flow numbers, surface area, number of fins, etc. etc.

So no, just because you spent a **** load on a 2 core radiator with big tubes does not mean it actually cools better. The whole "bigger tubes cool better" trope is just an advertising gimmick, without the data it doesn't mean anything.



Lol. Manual switching an electric fan is the dumbest way to do it. That's race car only BS. Most thermal switches only activate at one temperature, which makes them a poor choice for a two speed fan. The biggest efficiency gain from having an electric fan is only running it when it needs to be run, and optimizing the temperature range so it matches where your engine makes power. The best way to do that is a fan controller. And yeah, all modern cars use a fan controller and pretty much all of them will go 100k miles or more without an issue.

But let's get real, you have a car that spends 99.9% of it's time in the garage or on a trailer. A 2,000 CFM SPAL wouldn't keep my car cool even with half as much horspower as you have, which means you never drive your car under anything even close to resembling the conditions I drive in. Which makes your set up pretty much useless for anyone that actually DRIVES. Like I said before, out of this entire thread you have the least capable cooling system.

I mean, you admit this much, which means you probably drive even less than this. So let's see what your car does and doesn't do...


Ok, won't go 75 on the freeway...



Gets trailered to the track



Never goes more than 50 miles one way



130 miles round trip? Nope.

So there you have it folks, if you never go faster than 75, never drive more than 50 miles one way, and trailer everywhere you go then @'68cuda416 has a really expensive, less efficient cooling system to sell you on.

Here is how out of touch with reality that you are....I could change out my front tires and do nothing else to the car outside of maybe shock adjustments and I bet I would keep up with your car reasonably well on a roundy track and then if you changed out your tires and we went to a drag strip you would get slaughtered so bad I might actually feel sorry for you.....point being that you think you have a superior car but truth told with a simple front tire change and shock adjustment I would actually blow by your car at different points on the circle type track.........You guys make it too easy to make me prove you wrong.

 

['68cuda416]

Not common knowledge at all. Tube diameter is only one part of radiator design. Just like number of cores is only one part. If the tubes get too large, they don't efficiently transfer heat across the entire cross section of the tube. Under laminar flow the water "in the middle" isn't contacting the walls of the tube, which is where the heat exchange takes place. But too many cores can be an issue, since the air moving through the radiator is warming as it goes from front to back. The last core sees warmer air, so it can transfer less out.

Without actual data though you can't say a 2 core 1.25" tube radiator cools better than a 3 core .75" tube radiator. Depends on the water flow numbers, air flow numbers, surface area, number of fins, etc. etc.

So no, just because you spent a **** load on a 2 core radiator with big tubes does not mean it actually cools better. The whole "bigger tubes cool better" trope is just an advertising gimmick, without the data it doesn't mean anything.



Lol. Manual switching an electric fan is the dumbest way to do it. That's race car only BS. Most thermal switches only activate at one temperature, which makes them a poor choice for a two speed fan. The biggest efficiency gain from having an electric fan is only running it when it needs to be run, and optimizing the temperature range so it matches where your engine makes power. The best way to do that is a fan controller. And yeah, all modern cars use a fan controller and pretty much all of them will go 100k miles or more without an issue.

But let's get real, you have a car that spends 99.9% of it's time in the garage or on a trailer. A 2,000 CFM SPAL wouldn't keep my car cool even with half as much horspower as you have, which means you never drive your car under anything even close to resembling the conditions I drive in. Which makes your set up pretty much useless for anyone that actually DRIVES. Like I said before, out of this entire thread you have the least capable cooling system.

I mean, you admit this much, which means you probably drive even less than this. So let's see what your car does and doesn't do...


Ok, won't go 75 on the freeway...



Gets trailered to the track



Never goes more than 50 miles one way



130 miles round trip? Nope.

So there you have it folks, if you never go faster than 75, never drive more than 50 miles one way, and trailer everywhere you go then @'68cuda416 has a really expensive, less efficient cooling system to sell you on.

Thermal switch controls the fan, lol, reading comprehension issues? Also one side of the toggle turns the fan on manually......geez not even big shot circle jerker racer can't find the positive in that???? You don't think your car could benefit from the fan and water pump if electric running after you ran several laps in your car? Please tell me you agree.....LOL

 

[72bluNblu]

Here is how out of touch with reality that you are....I could change out my front tires and do nothing else to the car outside of maybe shock adjustments and I bet I would keep up with your car reasonably well on a roundy track and then if you changed out your tires and we went to a drag strip you would get slaughtered so bad I might actually feel sorry for you.....point being that you think you have a superior car but truth told with a simple front tire change and shock adjustment I would actually blow by your car at different points on the circle type track.........You guys make it too easy to make me prove you wrong.

If your car is half as fast as you claim, you'd have to change the entire front suspension to even begin to keep up with my car in the corners. Your wheel rates, shocks, brakes, all of it is wrong for doing anything other than going straight. A tire change!

My commute to work, which I do with my Duster every week whenever there isn't snow flying, is 60+ miles one way through 3,500ft of elevation change and everything from 25mph corners to the freeway where everyone does at least 75mph. Your car wouldn't even survive my commute with that underpowered pusher fan you're running.

Thermal switch controls the fan, lol, reading comprehension issues? Also one side of the toggle turns the fan on manually......geez not even big shot circle jerker racer can't find the positive in that???? You don't think your car could benefit from the fan and water pump if electric running after you ran several laps in your car? Please tell me you agree.....LOL

Yeah man, my fan controller keeps my fans running after I shut my key off. I can program any run time I want, takes less than 30 seconds to reprogram. It's even tied to my battery voltage so it shuts itself off if the battery runs down. Does it automatically, I can shut the car off and walk away and it will run the fans until the fan shut off temperature is reached. Oh, and I can program the shut off temp too, change it anytime I want without even opening the hood. Super handy when you're driving around town when it's 110° F out, you just park, lock the car and go about your business and it cools itself down and then shuts off.

But I'm sure you knew fan controllers were capable of things like that, seeing as how you know everything. Remember though, you proved me wrong. Oh, and I've been running the same fans and controller since 2014 now, well over 30k miles too. So the reliability is great!!!

Also, I know your car only goes straight so this may be hard for you, but there are a bunch of different racing disciplines that involve corners. Circle track and "roundy round" are for guys that only turn left. AutoX and road courses have corners that go both directions. Which is why a car that's good at autoX is still perfectly capable of being a daily driver, where a car that's good at drag racing is a trailer queen like yours.

 

[Carnut68]

LOL.....circle jerkers......LOL........your brains are spinning and you make zero sense......I feel bad for the guys that take your advice.....although most of them build clown wheel circle jerker type piles anyway so they probably like your advice.

I'm curious as to what this 68 Cuda run's in 1/4 or 1/8? I'm not being a smart a$$, it has 900 plus hp.

 

[72bluNblu]

I'm curious as to what this 68 Cuda run's in 1/4 or 1/8? I'm not being a smart a$$, it has 900 plus hp.

He claims it has run a 5.78 in the 1/8th but has added power since then.

Brett Miller 434" W9 headed small block street/strip '68 Barracuda

 

[mopardude318]

Can these contour fans be placed in front of the radiator and used as a pusher? I need a real good electric fan setup in front of the radiator. My 671 blower belt/and pulleys won’t allow anything in front of it as far as fans go. There’s just no room. I got 2” to play with. Lol. So in front of the radiator as a pusher it has to be.

 

[Matts440]

Most electric fans can be wired for either or pusher or puller, just flip the connection.

 

[72bluNblu]

Can these contour fans be placed in front of the radiator and used as a pusher? I need a real good electric fan setup in front of the radiator. My 671 blower belt/and pulleys won’t allow anything in front of it as far as fans go. There’s just no room. I got 2” to play with. Lol. So in front of the radiator as a pusher it has to be.

No. Not unless you’re planning on removing them from their full shroud and custom mounting them.

This is the complete Contour fan set up, it's all integrated. Mounting it as a pusher would mean the shroud would block a significant amount of the incoming air.