Enclosed Car Trailer Buying Help!

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Having owned a bunch of trailers in my life a 24' would be the absolutely smallest trailer I would consider and it would most likely be a 28' that I would buy. Personally I find a V nose hard to work with on the inside. I like to use the exposed tongue to put a box on for extra chains, generator or equipment related to the trailer that I don't want to store in the trailer.
 
I'm in the market too & have been all over the web getting advice from various places. Here's what I've learned:1) Don't buy cheap! It'll rattle itself to death & simply won't last. 2) Buy at least 1 "size" larger than you think you'll need. You'll be surprised how quickly space gets taken up. 3) make sure the siding is at least .040 thick . Believe it or not, the skin does help stiffening the trailer up. 4) Get a 1-piece roof. the less expensive trailers won't have this & can be prone to leaks.5) electric brakes-- while surge brakes may be easier, electrics allow you to adjust for the load. 6) 16in. tires--- whle it may seem like overkill, the thicker,stiffer sidewalls they come with last longer. 7) winch---make sure it's large enough to pull the car in if you break a rearend. 8) Lighting, preferably LEDs as they last longer. Make sure they're positioned to help you load & secure the car. Nothing is more annoying than to lie under a car at night & realiize you can't see where to secure your straps 'cause you forgot to place lighting down low on the interior walls. In short, you can never have too much lighting. 9) A/C--a luxury & a mixed blessing as you'll be surprised how many people will start hanging around your trailer if/when you have it. 10) Leftside access door-- the open cockpit guys really don't need it, but unless you're built like a stick-figure (& I know you're not:D) , the extra room it offers makes it a bunch easier to get in-and-out of a "doorslammer". 11) Steel vs. aluminum? While everyone agrees aluminum is easier to tow with, unless you find a high-dollar one for sale cheap, keep in mind it could be prone to "wandering" when not loaded & that aluminum isn't as durable as steel so if you're going to use it alot or share it with someone, aluminum may not be for you. Also, if it needs repair, it's going to be more expensive. 12) Flooring--pressure treated plywood, covered with vinyl/linoleum, aluminum (although it can get hot) or the thick rubber matting used in truck beds or garages. Don't settle for a sprayed in/rolled on flooring as the texture is too rough, it can hiide flaws in the wood and, IMO, you simply won't like it. If you find a trailer that has it but you really love the trailer anyway, consider aluminum planking where the car will roll to help strengthen the flooring. 13) Electrics--again while it may seem like overkill, a 50-amp box is desirable. Have at least 2 220v oulets at the front& rear of the trailer should you need to weld. 110v oulets should be placed at the front, middle & rear of the trailer (outside) for recharger/power tool use & on the inside. one near the main side-door, one by the loading door & at least 2 by the workbench upfront.
If price was no object, my choice would be a steel framed, 30ft enclosed with .060 siding, rubber covered flooring LEDs along the baseboards & sides (inside), 16in steel wheels, 2 ext. lights for pit-work, 4500# winch, 6500watt generator, 8 D-rings evenly spaced on the floor, 50amp circuit box.
There's alot more I could come up with but I think you see where I'm at. Feel free to swing by & we can re-hash some ideas on this as I said, I'm in the market, too.......
 
I have a cheaply built 20' enclosed that works perfect for storing and dragging cars around. Plenty of room for a car and some tools. Like others have said a 24' or longer gives you some room to grow. You could add a work bench or have more room for a pit bike or golf cart later on down the road.

Here at work we also have a nicely built 24'. I can't believe the difference in weight when pulling between the two, I attribute this to mostly the difference in quality between the two and not the size. Both trailers are extra tall, that is nice for head room and also the longer ramp doors they accommodate but they also catch the wind as well. Decisions decisions!

Here is a picture of the cheap one. Bought it used 6 or 7 years ago for $3500 a excellent price then, probably still worth the same amount. Enclosed trailers hold their value pretty good if you buy used.
 

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thanks hemicop, lots of good info! BTW how are you? seems like its been awhile since you were on here, I drive by every so often to
 
To minimize the chance for a "break-in" as opposed to stealing the whole thing, I have the doors double-locked. Ramp door has padlocks on both sides using the swing-arm locks while the walk-in and escape doors have the standard dual-lock latches as well as the swing-arm (or whatever they are called) over the top of them. All padlocks keyed alike, including the one used on the tongue latch. A u-bolt/ball lock is also used up front.
 
thanks hemicop, lots of good info! BTW how are you? seems like its been awhile since you were on here, I drive by every so often to

Just fine, thanks! Obviously I'm home now, pretty much done with the Dart--got some fine details to do,actually could use your advice, come to think of it, and plan to do some of the local cruises now that "the season" is here. Been helping a friend with a SOHC Ford project & getting ready for SEMA. Got some parts chasing to do (small stuff), so I'll be heading to Loper's a little later.......
 
Enclosed trailer? What are you pulling it with? That gas motored pickemup you talked about a while back? Good Luck with that...An enclosed tailer, even with the v nose is like pulling a barn on wheels. I rented one from a fellow in AZ when I moved up here. We loaded it with about 10k pounds of stuff. I got the same fuel mileage (diesel) towing it back to AZ empty as I did pulling it up here loaded. It did have the v-nose on it....Moral....with an older, tired, under powered pickemup you are setting yourself up for a nightmare....unless you do not ever plan on going up any serious hills.....This is just my opinion...take it for what it is worth....I would be looking for a diesel first.....
 
Enclosed trailer? What are you pulling it with? That gas motored pickemup you talked about a while back? Good Luck with that...An enclosed tailer, even with the v nose is like pulling a barn on wheels. I rented one from a fellow in AZ when I moved up here. We loaded it with about 10k pounds of stuff. I got the same fuel mileage (diesel) towing it back to AZ empty as I did pulling it up here loaded. It did have the v-nose on it....Moral....with an older, tired, under powered pickemup you are setting yourself up for a nightmare....unless you do not ever plan on going up any serious hills.....This is just my opinion...take it for what it is worth....I would be looking for a diesel first.....

5.9's have been pulling stuff all over for a long time, is it ideal, probably not, but we use it for alot more than just pulling 90% of the time. That said im going to be doing some stuff to it to give it more umph down low.
 
Look for someone upgrading to a big-rig and selling their setup cheap...24 ft min...28 or 30' best...don't think I'd go longer than 30' with a bumper pull. I bought a 30 foot bumper pull that I tow behind a F-250 Diesel...I think the brand is Timberwolf (I'm away from home now) and it's awesome. You'll always want more room. Mine is flat in the front and has stainless steel work bench and cabinets, lights, winch, side and floor tiedown...$6K years ago...not sure what they go for now. Guy put a F-150 in there and bent some of the metal underneath...good thing he had the big beefy axels which were fine. Metel was straightened and reinforced....I've towed this baby across the country at max GVW 12,500 and it rides GREAT! Good Luck!
 
Hey 805MoparKid,

My 2 cents worth on trailers...

I have a Pace Arrow Rally 28 foot steel trailer I bought 2 years ago. Have been very happy with construction and size. Reason I bought Pace Arrow - quality of materials and build. I also have owned a enclosed aluminum Pace Arrow snowmobile trailer for 10 ten years. Both trailers built well.

LH side door option makes getting in and out of car so easy. Would never have a trailer without it.

I had e track installed as an option. As I have different cars I haul, the e track makes tieing down simple.

I picked a color for the floor that looks good, but also hides any spills or drips, not so good, Duh!!! Now I have to be careful not to step in something and fall on my butt.

I have pulled this trailer around alot. To pick up my Barracuda I pulled it all the way to Florida and back with my RAM Hemi. Hemi handled it at 75 no problem. Was thrusty though.

Keep in mind what else you might put in the trailer. My interior height is 6'3" which I thought was enough. That is until I tried to put my 28 Model A Ford in it. Didn't clear the light bezels.

If you can, buy it longer and with heavier components than you think you need. You will be happy you did.

Ma Snart
 

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is your ram a 1/2 or 3/4 ton?

1500 5.9L but its a 4x4 with the HD package and better 3.54 gears. i plan on over loads and my dad already has the load leveling hitch and "sway control" for the camping trailer, so i'll need to weld the brackets to tongue.
 
1500 5.9L but its a 4x4 with the HD package and better 3.54 gears. i plan on over loads and my dad already has the load leveling hitch and "sway control" for the camping trailer, so i'll need to weld the brackets to tongue.


I have a 20' enclosed my car and it measures 16' long at the tip of the wheelie bars. I pull it with my 1/2 ton and I have the weight bar hitch with sway control.

I have no problems pulling mine and it is a flat front end. I put a 2000lb atv winch in it from tractor supply


Always load it with it and un load it as it makes it easy.. I love my 20'.
 
I'm with the guys that are saying to go for at least 24' . Your car is about 17', add 1' for the back clearance and 1' for the front.That gives you 19',, not much room left over for your stuff. You will be glad you did.
 
I have a 20' enclosed my car and it measures 16' long at the tip of the wheelie bars. I pull it with my 1/2 ton and I have the weight bar hitch with sway control.

I have no problems pulling mine and it is a flat front end. I put a 2000lb atv winch in it from tractor supply


Always load it with it and un load it as it makes it easy.. I love my 20'.

nice!
 
28' VINTAGE OUTLAW from Proline trailers. Found the deal on Racing Junk $11000 w/ cabinets, roof air, vinyl floor, and finished walls. My Duster has 96" wheelie bars so my golf cart wont fit but my quad will.
 
Kid , I know you are shopping on line.Look up Interstate Trailers.Well built for the money and the factory is in Kingman AZ. right by the airport.Lots of options,axles.doors and bling if you want it.They knocked off a few hundred bucks and I picked mine up at the factory.Or to save some dough look for used ones. Trailers that I have used in the past and put well over 100K miles on were Haulmark,Pace,Cyclone,and Interstate that I have now.All 24'ers
 
Kid , I know you are shopping on line.Look up Interstate Trailers.Well built for the money and the factory is in Kingman AZ. right by the airport.Lots of options,axles.doors and bling if you want it.They knocked off a few hundred bucks and I picked mine up at the factory.Or to save some dough look for used ones. Trailers that I have used in the past and put well over 100K miles on were Haulmark,Pace,Cyclone,and Interstate that I have now.All 24'ers

yea I looked them up but it was going to cost me more. I have to go to tx to pick it up but its still cheaper in the end...
 
We just downsized from a 40' gooseneck to nothing yet. We had a dragster so the length was needed but I rented a 20' V-nose to go pick up the dart and it had room to spare but not much. Personally I don't think the V-Nose helped mileage at all and have heard theories that the increased frontal area actually hurts mileage. We will be pulling about an hour to the track every weekend next year and I still haven't decided on going with a cheap open trailer or getting another enclosed trailer.
 
I am curious to know what "ma Snart" gets for mileage with that. With my 2010 1500 and the v-nose 20' I average 10.5. That is with the 3.92s and air bag helpers on the back.
 
I am curious to know what "ma Snart" gets for mileage with that. With my 2010 1500 and the v-nose 20' I average 10.5. That is with the 3.92s and air bag helpers on the back.

a lot of it has to do with the truck... my 4x4 is pretty tall stock so a lot of the frontal area is already blocked. as far as a v nose getting worse mpg that seems pretty hard to believe, I mean you think a brick is going to have better aero than a point?
 
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