Engine Assembly Question

-
tubbedamx

tubbedamx

Location Boise, Idaho
Joined
Jan 7, 2007
Messages
823
Reaction score
292
Location
Boise, Idaho
Putting together my 408 today. “First time with roller lifters”

Torqued down the cylinder heads and installed the front of the engine.

Went to install the roller lifters “Mike Jones solid rollers” to measure for pushrods and there’s not enough clearance to get them to drop in the holes.

My questions are:
Is there a trick to get them in or do I need to pull the heads back off.
Can I reuse the heads gaskets now that they’re compressed. Felpro-1008.

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
Since the engine hasn't been run with them, I'd be okay with reusing the gaskets.
You *may* be able to install the lifters one at a time if you can take off the links, finagle them in there, and still be able to reassemble them... maybe. But I wouldn't put money on it.
 
Thanks to all of you for the quick reply’s.

Pulled the heads, installed the lifters, cleaned all the surfaces and just finished torquing the heads back down.

I’m using ARP head studs. Following there instructions and used there fastener lube I torqued the nuts down to 105lbs
 
Those lifters are probably re-boxed Morel's because they look just like the Morel Hydraulic rollers I put in my 273. Mine will come in and out with the heads on. I think where the difference lies is you have a factory roller lifter block, and the lifter bores are considerably taller in those blocks. I don't know the head gasket answer. :(
 
After you get the pushrods figured out, leave the intake off until you get them in and adjusted. Those links look like they will be very close to hitting the tops of the lifter bores when the lifters are on the bottom of the base circle. It might just be the angle of the pic.
 
Here’s a close up on how the lifters are installed along with a pushrod length checker. They look correct to me. The tie bars are out clearing the ridge in the block. A quick visual, all the lifters are clear the bock

This a 1990 roller cam la360

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
You have them right. The links are made to straddle those ribs. Looking at those latest pics, there's a mile of clearance! As long as the pushrods clear the holes in the heads, you should be good to go.
 
JDMopar said:
You have them right. The links are made to straddle those ribs. Looking at those latest pics, there's a mile of clearance! As long as the pushrods clear the holes in the heads, you should be good to go.
Click to expand...
You’re not kidding, I had the holes enlarged when the heads were ported.

Looking at the pushrod checker vs rocker arm geometry I think I’m going to call B3 for a kit of some kind. I’ve never had to fix shaft rocker geometry
 
JDMopar said:
B3 can fix you right up! I'm gonna get help from them when I do the 470 for my 68 Roadrunner. I'm going to do a solid roller in that motor.
Click to expand...
That sounds like an awesome project. I’ve been looking at B-bodies lately. Growing up my dad had a 65 coronet with a 383 and a 4spd.
 
I've had it for 25 years or more. Factory 383 four speed car. I have the numbers matching 4 speed, but not the motor. A 470 can look like a 68 383 with headers and an aluminum intake, right?

:lol:
 
Haha of course!! A little paint and who really notices headers anymore
Just like a 408 can look like a 273. Mine won’t but I like the idea.

Years when I raced AMCs. My Indy headed 390 made 660hp but had a stock-ish look. The racy parts were painted…

Now if only the small block heads worked as well as amc heads did. Of course with a little bit of work….haha
 
tubbedamx said:
You’re not kidding, I had the holes enlarged when the heads were ported.

Looking at the pushrod checker vs rocker arm geometry I think I’m going to call B3 for a kit of some kind. I’ve never had to fix shaft rocker geometry
Click to expand...


I hope you haven’t purchased push rods yet. If you have and you need to correct your geometry it’s a great bet they will be too short.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top