72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Lets talk engine assembly, any tips and tricks for a 440? Also what gasket sealer do you guys like to use? Was going to get it to the machine shop here this week but there out for vacation.
Engine Assembly
- Thread starter 72ScampTramp
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green1
Well-Known Member
I learned, and have not used :sillycone" for 30 years. Right stuff, from permatex, permatex anything. copper-coat, good. Watch the application for all adhesives/sealers
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Anyone know where i might find a list of clearance specs for a 440? Bearing, side clearance, crank shaft end play ect ect.
do you mean like service manual info ...i have a 1970 factory service manual if you want me to look up some stuff in there?
im pretty sure that info is in there if you want factory numbers
dont know if it helps
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Yup i believe that gives me what i need. Thanks Rani.
take your oil pump apart and clean it then put it together with white grease.and I use the grease on all the barrings.I also put a little oil on head and baring cap bolts.I spray copper coat on my pump gasket and timing cover gasket and pan gasket (don't over tighten)then a good sealer on the valve covers (one side)and put the white grease on the other side and tighten them with a 1/4inch nut driver..(just snug & 1/2 turn.and I always talk to my motors as i'm caressing them............O and use very little silicone in the corners.......Artie:coffee2: O ya make sure its clean then clean it again.and organize your parts before starting.............I'm dun............
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Thanks artie. Good info there. My high school shop teacher once gave us a guild for building engines.. kind of a check sheet with all the clearances that need to be checked. Ive looked on the net and cant find anything like that.
Well I have always built my motor lose I run 3thos.on the bearing's what ever the piston co.says I go 1or2 more I pay close attention to ring gaps and how I put them in the motor.I'm a firm belever in strate 40or 50wt. oil (I gess im old school)but there not one of my motors I would be afrad to put in a dirt track car and race.and I have dun it with two of them and lived at 7000 rpms.for 50 laps at a time............Artie
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Not to take away, but there might be an easier way
You can now download a '70 manual from MyMopar:
One disadvantage of these is they do not follow the conventional "dash" Mopar page numbers. So you have to play a little.
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
70 manual:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1970_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip
66 manual
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip
Some other years available on our own site:
You have to "paw around" in there as some of the earlier links are broken, have been reposted later on. One or two of the manuals are "body only" and have no electrical and other sections
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual%2C+download
moper
Well-Known Member
Clean clean clean - even if you had the machine shop clean the block. Wipe the bores in the direction of the hone with a white paper towel and laquer thinner or brake cleaner until the towels coem out clean as they went in.
Visually inspect every oil passage and if possible - use a cleaning brush to go through them prior to install.
I second the oil pump disassembling- but Idon;t pack with grease. A simple coating of the rotors is enough and won;t clog up the passages or get stuck in small orifaces like lifters.
I use either assembly lube, or a mix of straight 30 oil and white lube for the bearing surfaces and pivot points.
Don't forget under bolt heads when you're lubricating main and head bolts and rod nuts.
Tap all threaded holes prior to final block cleaning.
Torque in at least 3 steps.
Make sure the block, crank, and rods are all at 60°, prefrrably 70 if you are using tools to measure for the cearances. If you cant get them warm - make sure the tools are just as cold as the parts...
Make sure if you are filing the ring gaps that you don't leave sharp edges at the bore side or the sides of the rings at the gap.
Make sure you take a moment to polish the sharp corners of the pistons - the valve reliefs and the edge of any dish to round the corner off.
Number all the pistons and rods before you start assembling and verify the pistons are going in properly.
Visually inspect every oil passage and if possible - use a cleaning brush to go through them prior to install.
I second the oil pump disassembling- but Idon;t pack with grease. A simple coating of the rotors is enough and won;t clog up the passages or get stuck in small orifaces like lifters.
I use either assembly lube, or a mix of straight 30 oil and white lube for the bearing surfaces and pivot points.
Don't forget under bolt heads when you're lubricating main and head bolts and rod nuts.
Tap all threaded holes prior to final block cleaning.
Torque in at least 3 steps.
Make sure the block, crank, and rods are all at 60°, prefrrably 70 if you are using tools to measure for the cearances. If you cant get them warm - make sure the tools are just as cold as the parts...
Make sure if you are filing the ring gaps that you don't leave sharp edges at the bore side or the sides of the rings at the gap.
Make sure you take a moment to polish the sharp corners of the pistons - the valve reliefs and the edge of any dish to round the corner off.
Number all the pistons and rods before you start assembling and verify the pistons are going in properly.
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Im actually writing a book here lol. Im making a binder for reference. So keep it coming!
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