Engine break in oil?

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yellow rose said:
We'll post a link so I don't have to go find it. I'm still pretty freaking busy dealing with my inlaws and my parents. My wife is over making the old people ouch right now and tomorrow is house clean up day. I'm not getting a break. I have to be on your side of the state Wednesday for a doc appointment on Thursday so that shoots three days in the ***, maybe more if my parents are aren't behaving and I need to stay there and beat them back into line.


Getting old ain't for sissies.
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Just go to the racing forum you'll see it no problem. You don't need a link. If you're able to navigate Moparts like the mad scientist does I'm sure you'll have no trouble...
 
find the best base stock you can (IV and V synthetic) EP is built in
remember that most additive packages are incompatible with SN oils which take a calcium based EP package
do not try and blend break in oil yourself with today's oils
STP and Motor honey (as break in)were for when a motor was going to sit a long time before running- Not the Racers Edge
 
j par said:
Just go to the racing forum you'll see it no problem. You don't need a link. If you're able to navigate Moparts like the mad scientist does I'm sure you'll have no trouble...
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LOL. I see you have not only NOT cut back on smoking the devils lettuce, you have increased your consumption.
 
Wyrmrider said:
find the best base stock you can (IV and V synthetic) EP is built in
remember that most additive packages are incompatible with SN oils which take a calcium based EP package
do not try and blend break in oil yourself with today's oils
STP and Motor honey (as break in)were for when a motor was going to sit a long time before running- Not the Racers Edge
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Right. Group III synthetics are only synthetic in this country because we allow ignorant judges to be bought and sold like 2 dollar whores on cocain.
 
Group III is Castrol and clones
IMHO the eurospec 0W- 40 BMW LL and MB 229 spec made from natural gas oil is as good as you can get- there are also other grades - the additive package is also synthetic whereas most other oils the additive oil is dino based- which dilutes
III also part of the cost effective blend for +4 trans fluid
what trans +4 has is a controlled and effective additive package and strict licensing from Ma Mopar- something that Dexron III no longer has
the best more modern trans fluid is Citgo Quatrosyn
where it's better is either very cold start ups or very hot usage and it holds up much longer (it's thinner when cold to flow better)
If you are going to change frequently and not hot or cold then +4 works great
 
2 aspirins are good. 4 must be better, and 8 ought to get the job done. Has to be a point of - now we're just being stupid silly!!!
 
I have a roller cam in this 360 and was told with the hydraulic roller cams to break in procedure is a lot easier, my machine shop told me I could run 20-50 Valvoline high zinc racing oil for the first 500 miles and just change it and continue to run that thereafter
 
ParDaddy said:
I have a roller cam in this 360 and was told with the hydraulic roller cams to break in procedure is a lot easier, my machine shop told me I could run 20-50 Valvoline high zinc racing oil for the first 500 miles and just change it and continue to run that thereafter
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He’s right on the money. Break in oil is good for everything on the engine on break in/first start. So since you have the roller cam, you have no need for the high zinc the flat tappers depend on.

20/50 though?
 
rumblefish360 said:
He’s right on the money. Break in oil is good for everything on the engine on break in/first start. So since you have the roller cam, you have no need for the high zinc the flat tappers depend on.

20/50 though?
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Going in my 2500, I'm hard on my truck lol
 
ParDaddy said:
Going in my 2500, I'm hard on my truck lol
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Roger that. Normally that grade I use in ether loose clearance engines (crank/rods) or racing. Heavy Duty applications would be a good area for sure.
 
Run the thinnest oil you can maintain good pressure with.
I typically run 5-30 in my hot rods. But my engines are put together with tight tolerances.
 
That’s the thing right there that I do with the oil.
Tighter clearances for longevity street engine expected to be in service for a long time. Decades expected.
Looser for the street strip rides.

As time goes on, after many many miles, they’ll start to require a thicker heavier grade.
 
rumblefish360 said:
That’s the thing right there that I do with the oil.
Tighter clearances for longevity street engine expected to be in service for a long time. Decades expected.
Looser for the street strip rides.

As time goes on, after many many miles, they’ll start to require a thicker heavier grade.
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So true, I will put stuff together, and I only want to do it once.
Its a lot more fun to wash and wax a car on Sunday, than laying under it fixing something.
 
So true.
Nothing like new go-fast parts.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I think I will use a mopar performance oil filter. From all the cut open videos I have watched they seem really high quality.
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Save your coins - Buy a Wix filter locally and be done !!!
If Wix isn't good enough just buy a
System One (unit) cleanable unit lasts for LIFE .
 
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