Engine build storage questions

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The problem with using penetrating oils like wd40 and pb blaster is that they have alot of aromatics in them and once they turn to gas,their ability to prevent rust is gone.
 
The problem with using penetrating oils like wd40 and pb blaster is that they have alot of aromatics in them and once they turn to gas,their ability to prevent rust is gone.
That's funny you disagree with what I say and I disagree with what you say so you go and hit the disagree on everything I say lol...
Sounds like the grown up thing to do LOL...
You have my attention now is there anything else you need to say?...
 
That's funny you disagree with what I say and I disagree with what you say so you go and hit the disagree on everything I say lol...
Sounds like the grown up thing to do LOL...
You have my attention now is there anything else you need to say?...
Hey, how you doing?:lol:
 
Absolutely nothing personal J, just found it odd you disagreed with me and wanted you to know without getting out the flame thrower. Hey it’s not the first time someone disagreed with me and I sure as hell don’t know everything (anything). I’m just speaking from my experience with wd40 and blaster.
 
Absolutely nothing personal J, just found it odd you disagreed with me and wanted you to know without getting out the flame thrower. Hey it’s not the first time someone disagreed with me and I sure as hell don’t know everything (anything). I’m just speaking from my experience with wd40 and blaster.
The w and WD-40 is water... I use it as a cleaner to clean oil spills off of my garage floor....
BP has several different kinds of formulas but the one I was recommending is the penetrating oil.. this wasn't meant to keep a block perfect for 50 years or anything like that but for a short amount of time I've found it to do well.
 
We went from wd40 to silicone for our way covers (big machinery) over 10 day Christmas/new year’s break cause we were coming back to rust. It just evaporates.
 
Okay well that's all great and dandy I'm off this thread as I'm sure 4spdragtop has more than enough information to make an informed decision....
 
Hi all, I was talking with another member here who is in a similar climate as myself in Ontario.
We're both in the middle of an engine build, altho mine has "stalled" but I plan on getting back to it over the winter.
Should there be any concern of humidity/moisture/condensation/rust throughout winter and spring?
My garage can be heated, but I dont run heat in it 24/7. I would turn it on prior to going out to shop and turning off after a few hours or so.
Thanks
Yes
 
I have had the dart in my shop stripped to bare metal since last February and have no surface rust anywhere.
Have a look around your shop Steve and see if any bare metal items have any rust...that should give you an idea
of how humid it ever gets. I spray everything with wd-40 over the winter that is outside but under cover and there
is usually a film still there in the spring
WD...water displacement.
 
Thanks, the xheads I'm playing with got minor surface rust within a week. Sprayed with Fluidfilm. Stops, but does not remove rust.
I have had the dart in my shop stripped to bare metal since last February and have no surface rust anywhere.
Have a look around your shop Steve and see if any bare metal items have any rust...that should give you an idea
of how humid it ever gets. I spray everything with wd-40 over the winter that is outside but under cover and there
is usually a film still there in the spring
WD...water displacement.
 
I'm in a similar boat. Engine build is on ice while some other projects get taken care of. I'm keeping the machined block and crank in big clear heavy duty trash bags, and I inspect every couple weeks, and spray it down with WD. I buy the gallon jugs of WD and use their little sprayer.

You'd have to buy an awful lot of WD before you eat up the cost of ruining a machined block and crank.
 
If anyone moves to the shop, it's me! I'm pretty confident I can have a comfy sleep in the back seat of cuda.
With my work schedule, the engine may sit for a week or 2 before I'm able to get at it again. The desiccant bags may be the best bet while keeping bare steel coated and bag it.
Charcoal will absorb moisture better than desican will.
Downfall of using charcoal, you have to put it in something like a soup can.
 
Guess I'm lucky since I'm in Colorado and the humidity is very low, both summer and winter. My 440 build for my truck kind of stalled out, rods are assembled to pistons which I keep indoors and the crank is assembled into the block with main bearings and rear main seal but that sits in my garage on a stand with a plastic engine bag around it. It's been sitting since early summer though, might be a good idea to check it over. I could probably start assembling the pistons/rods into the block, just need to check ring gaps and potentially buy a ring grinder.

FWIW I feel like wiping down the cylinder bores and critical machined surfaces with motor oil would last a lot longer than WD-40 or penetrating oil. Better yet put something lighter like 5w-30 or 0w-20 in a spray bottle and use that.
 
WD in my experience actually lasts quite a while. Most definitely longer than penetrating oil (tried that before).

Maybe not as good as motor oil although i haven't tried that.
 
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