Engine removal question

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Looks great! Me personally, I wouldn't be comfortable with the cherry picker lift arm being further out than the front support wheels. A logistic I'm sorting out in my head currently as I'm using this method to move the car today.

Backally said:
my engine/tranny was sitting on the dolly I made (and have reused) out of scrape 2x4’s. It literally took me by myself less than 15 minutes to have it in the car, k frame bolted in with headers already attached. I disconnect the upper control arms at the ball joint so alignment didnt change. Hour or 2 bolting up all the other stuff. This is one where’s there’s no wrong way to do it, if your comfortable coming in from above do it like that. I like hooking up the headers, power steering pump and as much as I can but I also have room in my garage to have it out in the open. Single car garage would definitely cramp thingsView attachment 1715109663
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j par said:
Here comes some more tar and Feathers LOL wouldn't that mess up the alignment?
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So, you're doin an engine swap where 5K or more has been spent on a power plant and you wanna gripe about a 79 dollar alignment?

That said, you could mark the cam bolts and put them back in the same positions, OR you could knock the upper ball joints loose and leave the UCAs in the car. Problem solved.
 
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YES! Because 5k was waaaay more then was budgeted and there isn't money for Unnecessary expenses because someone on the internet said it was a better way. (I just put that answer in there for an extremely typical scenario)
And just four arguments sakes LOL and I'm just kind of $hitting with you here totally..BUT, I knew the perfect world scenario was the answer that was coming where you mark everything and put it all back together and it works completely the same LOL LOL LOL somehow just not in my world LOL

RustyRatRod said:
So, you're doin an engine swap where 5K or more has been spent on a power plant and you wanna grip about a 79 dollar alignment?

That said, you could mark the cam bolts and put them back in the same positions, OR you could knock the upper ball joints loose and leave the UCAs in the car. Problem solved.
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[ I wouldn't be comfortable with the cherry picker lift arm being further out than the front support wheels.]

Can’t see it in the pic but I had some cement bricks on the lift. It’s really pretty stable. Car without the kframe/engine assembly is really pretty light
 
j par said:
YES! Because 5k was waaaay more then was budgeted and there isn't money for Unnecessary expenses because someone on the internet said it was a better way. (I just put that answer in there for an extremely typical scenario)
And just four arguments sakes LOL and I'm just kind of $hitting with you here totally..BUT, I knew the perfect world scenario was the answer that was coming where you mark everything and put it all back together and it works completely the same LOL LOL LOL somehow just not in my world LOL
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blah blah blah blah <fingers in my ears> blah blah blah blah
 
Honestly I wish I had the money time and space to do it this way but I don't....
 
We've used several variations of the bread cart / furniture dollys but HemiDenny has done
enough Gen II Hemis to have these bolt on wheels made and Ross (76orangewagon) had this
cherry picker hook point bracket made that bolts where the front bumper brackets attach.
This is the Hemi in HemiMark's recently finished black Demon. He is using an HDK front end
so they lowered the car and just picked the motor up and slid the K-frame in under it.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Whatever cart you build or use make sure that it is narrow enough so
that the legs of your cherry picker fit around the outside of it.

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Somma10-14trip065_zps89261edc.jpg
 
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Simple bracket for a single roll-around wheel for the body while it is empty of powertrain weight.

DennysShop01-21-11122.jpg

MillerHouse100.jpg
 
Okay Agreed 100% this is the way to do it if you have a dream shop! Now the other 99% of us...

Old Man Mopar said:
We've used several variations of the bread cart / furniture dollys but HemiDenny has done
enough Gen II Hemis to have these bolt on wheels made and Ross (76orangewagon) had this
cherry picker hook point bracket made that bolts where the front bumper brackets attach.
This is the Hemi in HemiMark's recently finished black Demon. He is using an HDK front end
so they lowered the car and just picked the motor up and slid the K-frame in under it.

View attachment 1715109707
View attachment 1715109708
View attachment 1715109709
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Cart made to hold an engine/trans on a standard K-frame. Note the narrow width of
the caster wheels so the legs of the cherry picker will fit around them. The back part
will hold the transmission tailshaft up.

Weebs%20engine%20cart_zpsomazjhun.jpg


Rolling the engine on the cart under the raised car (these pictures are over 20 years old).
Note that the car is not very high and it's also extremely light until the engine/trans/battery
/radiator/wheels/bumper etc are bolted back up to it again. The hood was not removed.

472install-1.jpg


Lowering the body down over it. Not one bit of that fresh paint job was marred during this operation.

472install-3.jpg


Picking the engine up the last few inches until the K-frame bolt holes are close and lining up.

472install-4.jpg


Bolted in - We're home. Bolt up the trans mounts and control arms. Rolling again.

472install-5.jpg
 
Backally said:
Hardest thing about taking it out from under is removing the torsion bars and the steering coupler. But once you’ve done it once the next time it’s easy. Reinstalling is a breeze
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Amen to that. How many threads have been started on, "Help. I can't figure out how to get my torsion bars out!".
I guess this whole thing shows why they make more than one flavor of ice cream.
 
^^^^old man mopar I like the silver!
Well I think I'm going to use some kind of hybrid method here Under and Over. I'll drop the motor and transmission in from above but I'll bring the K frame from down below. I don't really want to make some kind of rolling stand where I pick my motor up off of it's stand and then set it down on the floor on some kind of rollers that I make and then set the motor hoist up to hold the car again and pick it up roll it under and lower it down on it connect it and then pick it back up off the ground and put it back on the jack stands? That would be too much work. Good thing I have going on is I have absolutely nothing in the way when I drop it down in and the 8 quart oil pan fits so tight that I actually have to notch the K frame for it. This way I can get the motor down in there without wedging and banging it against the K frame and against the firewall because of that damn oil pan. I can just lower it down below its normal spot connect to K frame buy the motor mounts and then pull it back up and transmission. I should be able to do this with the starter and and with the transmission crossmember on.
 
LOL yeah everybody let's go pick up a cheap forklift LOL I'll have to do a lot more weightlifting to get into that kind of condition LOL:poke:
 
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