engine turns over, will not fire

[Joe Dz]

Hey guys, I need some help with the slant six. It's a 64 Dart GT and I had it running pretty good. Today I changed the oil and took it for a short ride. I started the car later and the engine stalled after a few seconds. Now it will not start. The engine turns over, bit it will not fire.

I changed the ballast resistor and it did not fix the problem. I took out one of the spark plug wires and cranked the engine and there was no spark. I did notice a wire that runs to the engine (see attached pic) that looks kind of weak near the connector. It is on the right side of the engine, rearward of the oil filter. I may have snagged it when changing the oil filter. Does anyone know what this wire is for? Would it cause an ignition issue? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Mad Dart]

Looks like the Oil Pressure sending unit wire. Don't thing that would kill the spark even if you ripped it out/off.

 

[memike]

Points or electronic ignition ?........ Is the distributor cap loose feeling, Check and see if your coil is firing or if the wire to your distributor was disturbed

 

[Joe Dz]

Thanks memike, I won't worry about that wire too much right now if its the oil pressure sending unit.

Mad Dart- I've got points, no electronic ignition. The distributor cap is not loose. How do I check if the coil is firing (I'm a rookie at this stuff)?

 

[67Dart273]

Important to understand that in Mopars, cranking ignition voltage is DIFFERENT if you

1--Are cranking the engine using the key, which shoots direct 12V to the coil, or........

2--Are jumpering the start relay with key in run, which gives you less power

In other words, a "no start" you need to check spark using the key, two people if required.

If you can't otherwise, you can "Rig" a spark gap so you can see it. Get in, where you can reach the key, look out through the hood gap, and see what you can see. Then remove one plug and a wire, and lay the plug up on the engine so you can see it. Hook that one plug, with it's wire, to the coil. Then go crank with the key. You should get a nice hot spark.

If not, leave the key in "run" and go out to the engine bay. Find the starter relay which looks something like this:

With the key in "run" use a screwdriver to jumper the largest two exposed terminals, the stud and the "square" terminal. Be darn sure the gearbox in in park or neutral. Look for a spark at your plug

If you get no spark, it's time for a multimeter or a test lamp. With the key in "run" put your test lamp on coil NEG and jumper the star relay to crank the engine. You should see the lamp "flash" as the engine turns.

If the lamp either lights or does not light, but does not flash, either the points are burned so they won't conduct, or are worn so they won't open. With the cap off, "bump" the engine so the points are "closed," on the flat of the distributor cam lobes

Now with your light or meter on the coil POSitive, you should get some voltage, maybe only 6V with key in run. Using as small screwdriver to manually open the points, the light on the coil positive should go bright, or the meter should go from low to "same as battery," IE about 12.5V

So could be

A--you are not getting power to the coil

B--points are damaged and not opening or closing

C--condenser (inside the distributor) is bad

D--coil wire is bad and not conduction spark to the cap

E--rotor/ cap are so dirty that they are shorting spark. Dirt moisture, carbon tracks

F--bad coil

Diagrams for your car, somewhat useable, not always complete

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65DartA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65DartB.jpg



Even though your car is a 64, and there are some differences, you can download a free Mopar shop manual for a 66 here. Much of the engine stuff is the same. You'll have to play with page numbers as they show up consecutive in your browser.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip

Also, there's some very good info here

Punch "browse by topic" or " browse by year"

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=117

this page

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=441

and this is a very good read

[ame]http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/201.pdf[/ame]

 

[BillGrissom]

There are many, many posts on this if you search. Several times per week. You need a multimeter, in-line spark tester, starter fluid, timing light, alligator jumpers, and a little knowledge. Above parts might cost $15 total at Harbor Freight and garage sales. Knowledge is free here, www.slantsix.org, and youtube. A quickie and I'm gone - connect a jumper wire from BATT+ to coil+. I bet it will spark and run, but don't leave on long or your coil will get real hot.

 

[TrailBeast]

I like to follow a path of simple diagnostics when faced with an issue like this.

Does it have spark out of the coil wire?
No. go backwards into the system from there
Yes. go farther down stream from there.

If it does not have spark, then does the coil have power to it?
No. find out where the interuption is.
Yes. see if it has a signal from the system to fire the coil?

If there is spark from the coil, then does it have spark at the plugs?
No. then it's the distributor reluctor, rotor, distributor drive, cap, wires or plugs.
Yes. then it's a timing problem or something else not related to the ignition system at all.

Any way, that's the way I go about diagnosing.