Evaluate Timing chain sets

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What's the cost of a decent SB belt drive these days? How long do the belts last?
Jessel. The dist. was $780 the belt drive was $1580 we can use our CSR water pump on it. My son may sell our timing cover we won't be using it. Or the fluidampr. The one pictured below is what we ordered ours is still in the box. Cam and dist are belt drive.

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That ^^^^ is the correct roller chain to use with a tensioner. The roller chains that have the "dog bone" style links are the chains that chew into the tensioner shoes. I have preached this on here for YEARS, but no one ever listens or acknowledges it.
Yeah, you know it, I know it, the majority here know it. Again, an example of a correct high quality roller chain and a beautiful MP chain tensioner after 8000+ miles, for a cam swap. Rollers rolling on the pads will burnish (for lack of proper term) and the links rub the pads imparting a scuffed appearance. After 8000 miles still not to that point as shown. Simply put, exceptional condition both performing as designed.

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The engine that was done at Hughes was in this Duster sitting next to mine. He is a member on this site from NY. The work done at Hughes as per the article was terrible . Car was featured in Mopar action and Mopar performance doing dyno runs by the previous owner. Check out the article. I hope they hired new employees since they built this engine.

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I would disagree with the part that you cannot use them on a double roller timing chain, as rrr pointed out that style link is fine for use with the tensioner. I have used the same style chains with tensioners and have not had a problem. As far as the chain stretch/brand I cannot comment, you would need to ask hughes since it's there picture.

The problem I see with chains now is it seems like they are all outsourced crap/poor quality. I have checked quite a few chains that were setup correctly (the right amount of tension) after some street time and found almost all had stretched more than I want to see. I don't just base this off my own experiences but local engine builders, friends of friends etc. One of the worst I saw was our buddys chevy 406 with the most expensive cloyes he could buy and it was stretched with only a couple hundred miles on it.

Again these are not just random cheap chains installed with some slop, these are quality billet chains installed that were the right amount of "tightness" and checked after street miles/passes. Once we started checking them is when we saw a pattern across the board-even with a pontiac. I agree a tensioner is a band aid but I trust the quality of modern timing chains about as much as our government.
Lack of oil is the biggest problem most have .
 
harmonics?

I’ve heard that but I’ve never seen any evidence of it. I’ve also asked on a couple of other websites about any testing done with a GD verses a BD verses a TC set up and only one guy posted some testing done.

The problem with that paper was (IIRC the testing was done by Rousch-Yates but my memory…can be in question some times) was the GD was a Pete Jackson style dual idler. Not a 3 gear, fixed idler type of GD.

It has been my theory for years now that the crankshaft produces far more harmonics than the cam train ever will. And my thinking is that the gear drive MAY transfer crank harmonics to the cam train IF the crank damper isn’t capable of doing its job.

I forget what year the NHRA and ASScar passed the rule that you had to run an SFI damper but I think it was the early 1980’s. At that time most everyone was using an elastomer style damper that has a very narrow tuning range. Now some 30 plus years later even the elastomer dampers have gotten so much better that what we used back then can’t compare to what we have today.

Thats just my opinions on the harmonics issues. I bought my first GD in 1984 and in all those years and in using as many GD’s as I could convince people to use I have never seen an issue that I could trace back to a harmonics issue.

What I have seen is a flexing pushrod will do more damage and and cause the most weird issues you‘ll ever see. Like adjusters backing off, rocker shafts coming loose and bending and/or breaking…but the most insane one I ever saw was a SBC.

That thing would break the cast aluminum oil filter adapter right off the block. It would fall ofr and make a massive mess. At the time we thought it was breaking them because they were just cast.

So we bought a remote filter set up and that cured that issue. Then it started losing valve lash. Every run. At that time, BRC made a very expensive shaft rocker set up, so we bought that thing and it stopped losing lash. And then it started crapping out the pushrods.

Once we updated the pushrods all that went away. One thing we noticed when it first cracked off on the dyno was how noisy the valve train was at idle and how much more quiet it was under load, making a pull.

The pushrod was bending so much it was quieting some of the lash noise. Under load making a pull the bending pushrods made a big racket and the bigger diameter, thicker wall pushrods didn’t make any more noise than it did at idle.

There are so many things going on inside of a running engine that it’s mind boggling.
 
Deleted my recommendation because someone panties got in a knot.

Listen to whomever you choose and good luck with whatever you end up with.

As for me , I like the mancini billet sets.. because I use them and know them to be quality.
 
Deleted my recommendation because someone panties got in a knot.

Listen to whomever you choose and good luck with whatever you end up with.

As for me , I like the mancini billet sets.. because I use them and know them to be quality.
Mancini billet sets are good we have used them. My son gets cloyes sets from summit A-tech through his comercial account. He gets good prices through quantity orders of parts. They are all drop shipped Cloyes billet true roller race sets.

If they are anodized and look pretty they are usually not that good. Also look at the pin if they have a center punch in the center of the pin throw it right in the metal bin for trash. You cannot pin punch a hardened pin to assemble the chain.
 
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Deleted my recommendation because someone panties got in a knot.

Listen to whomever you choose and good luck with whatever you end up with.

As for me , I like the mancini billet sets.. because I use them and know them to be quality.
Not wadded up panties. Say it ain't so.
 
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Probably just not enough room.:(
 
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I thought about that, would be easy enough to make, just may not be enough room to fit in the roller.
 
This is funny right here. Read! Why over engineer. Just buy a good true roller race set and throw the tensioners in the trash. They designed the tensioners to fix their mistakes. Now you all want to use their bandaid for a problem you create with being cheap with a chain you bought.

I just don't get the logic with some of the members on this site. A stretched chain is stretched Taking up the slack on the relaxed side doesn't put the pull side back in time. It only creates mores stretch from the tensioner pushing on the junk chain that the soft pins are wearing down to needles.

You all don't honestly believe the links stretch do you? Its the soft junk pins and rollers they wearing out instantly on some .

Sprockets anodized black with silver teeth. Chains look chrome . key slots just for appearance on a sprocket you can squash flat with a press without it cracking. Just to sell them to guys like you all and then they grab you for a tensioner on top of that.


I had a friend going to Sturgis. His chain was loose on his Harley and it was loose beyond tightening with adjustment. So instead of a new good chain he bought a half link. Tightened that chain right up. How far do you think he made it? Far enough to get out to the middle of nowhere.
He was left there talking to the buffalo for a day until someone took him a chain back. Luckily it was junk chain like you all buy. because it took him a couple hours to widdle the pin down to shorten the chain. No one thought to take his chain with or take a chain breaker back.

Everytime I hear you all discuss this tensioner it reminds me of this man. LMFAO
 
It's not that we want a tentioner to begin with.. it's more of me saying gee they could have designed that band aid piece of **** ..to be a better Band-Aid piece of ****, is all. lol
I ran a tentioner in my 340.. 2002..only after that piece of **** JP performance chain stretched out ..and I thought f**k I'll get my money out of it since is was only a few months old. When the 340 came apart that tensioner went in the cabinet and when I ended up needing to do the timing chain on my 96 Dodge 1500 I decided to go for a stock chain and use that tensioner since they were known to occasionally show up in those Magnum Motors so I heard ..never seen one!
Stock chain is perfect for it...and will stretch..so that's covered.
Mancini is not stretched it's tight as the day I put it in there and it will go back into the next 4" motor.
 
This is funny right here. Read! Why over engineer. Just buy a good true roller race set and throw the tensioners in the trash. They designed the tensioners to fix their mistakes. Now you all want to use their bandaid for a problem you create with being cheap with a chain you bought.
Lol, one dimensional thinking.
 
Lol, one dimensional thinking.
Yes, But it is the correct way of thinking. Tensioners are not needed on small block or big block mopars. How many do you seeing being used on a Big Block Mopar. I have not ever seen one on an engine yet. Saw they are out there but none to be seen on an engine. Maybe they're thinking with their dipstick

 
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