Evaporust containers

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Dana67Dart

Dana67Dart

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble
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I love Evaporust!

But my wife has grown tired of me using her glass bowls for cleaning parts.

I happened to be in Sam's Club the other day and say these containers.

There are 3 for under $15.00.

They are a great size for small parts, nuts and bolts etc. they come with a lid and have handles on the side for easy lifting. Also they are a very thick plastic.

I also had a funnel and some paint filters and when I store the used Evaporust or swap out the parts I filter out the chunks.


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Well no wonder. I'd be annoyed if my bowels were glass and you irritated them with Evaporust. Now bowls, that's a whole 'nother story. :poke:
 
I found some stuff called Rust 911. Not cheap but a gallon can be diluted to make 16 gallons. And it works great and seams to last longer that evaporust.

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I'm looking for a small tray in the shape of a valve cover to soak a pair in.
 
Anyone who watches Hoosier Garage on YouTube will recall he uses this stuff
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Dana67Dart said:
I love Evaporust!

But my wife has grown tired of me using her glass bowls for cleaning parts.

I happened to be in Sam's Club the other day and say these containers.

There are 3 for under $15.00.

They are a great size for small parts, nuts and bolts etc. they come with a lid and have handles on the side for easy lifting. Also they are a very thick plastic.

I also had a funnel and some paint filters and when I store the used Evaporust or swap out the parts I filter out the chunks.


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I got some plastic food containers (something like Tupperware) and started using them for mineral spirits tubs. That really messed with the tubs. They first warped, then they got hard, then they cracked. I'm thinking about going to steam table pans, stainless with lids and not that expensive.

Amazon has two of them for $30
 
mopardude318 said:
I sometimes use PVC pipe. You can try a 6” diameter piece with a cap for a valve cover.
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A longer piece with a cap works good to soak driveshafts. Put the driveshaft down in the pipe with a wire rigged to pull it back out, stand it up with the cap glued on at the bottom and then fill it up with rust remover of your choice.

:thumbsup:
 
mopardude318 said:
I sometimes use PVC pipe. You can try a 6” diameter piece with a cap for a valve cover.
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Agree ^^^

I do the same when using muriatic acid to remove mill scale from long pieces of steel. Cap off a PVC pipe, set it on its end, throw your part inside. Works like a charm.
 
RAT ROD AL said:
I found some stuff called Rust 911. Not cheap but a gallon can be diluted to make 16 gallons. And it works great and seams to last longer that evaporust.
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Googled it. Their MSDS just says "acids" but no details.
https://www.rust911.com/content/Rust911 Concentrate MSDS.pdf

One post claimed phosphoric acid, but others said "no smell" so unlikely. Might be similar chemicals as Evapo-Rust which also has little smell.

A recent Popular Science review selected Evapo-Rust but didn't test Rust911:
Use These Products to Keep Rust at Bay Throughout Your Home
 
A56 said:
Anyone who watches Hoosier Garage on YouTube will recall he uses this stuff
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I also use that Concrete Etch, which is phosphoric acid, but only after Evapo-Rust. It converts any remaining rust in pits into hard black iron phosphate which can bond to paint. Evapo-Rust is a different chemistry which dissolves rust.
 
I have used pvc pipe to soak shower frame pars in vinegar. Works great. Vinegar also works as de-ruster and it it is dirt cheap.
 
I just de-rusted the backside of my 1964 Valiant front Bumper and repeating on my 1965 Dart rear bumper. I first wire-brushed, then placed rags soaked in Evapo-Rust, covered with plastic for several days, brushed and washed again, then phosphoric acid to convert any remaining pits to hard iron phosphate, then Ace spray metal primer. Also did the rusted steel brackets which cleaned up nice. Not necessary since such thick metal won't rust-thru, especially in CA, but I never re-install corroded parts. The brackets fit in a large thin plastic food container, which wifey didn't even notice was missing.
 
Righty Tighty said:
Agree ^^^

I do the same when using muriatic acid to remove mill scale from long pieces of steel. Cap off a PVC pipe, set it on its end, throw your part inside. Works like a charm.
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I'm a retired tile setter and used muriatic for years to clean hands and tools. Make sure you dilute to 20 to 1 first or you may not have anything left. A helper of mine years ago put one of my towels in a pail of muriatic acid over a weekend and on Monday, only had a wood handle left. LOL Make sure you neutralize the part when taking it out of the acid or the acid will still work on the part. Sodium Bicarb is a neutralizer. Baking soda. Then seal the raw metal ASAP.
 
I've used apple cider vinegar to remove rust on small jukebox parts for years. Relatively available, inexpensive, and works pretty well on light rust, but just don't soak things too long or they can turn dark (plated and/or polished finishes).
 
Swinger 340 said:
I'm a retired tile setter and used muriatic for years to clean hands and tools. Make sure you dilute to 20 to 1 first or you may not have anything left. A helper of mine years ago put one of my towels in a pail of muriatic acid over a weekend and on Monday, only had a wood handle left. LOL Make sure you neutralize the part when taking it out of the acid or the acid will still work on the part. Sodium Bicarb is a neutralizer. Baking soda. Then seal the raw metal ASAP.
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My ratio is more like 2:1 or 3:1. It’s good and strong and chews through mill scale to prep for welding. And yes, I use either baking soda or washing soda to neutralize it.
 
Muratic acid really cleans toilets. I use it in rental houses. But tough to use in closed spaces.
 
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