exhaust manifolds

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Deleted member 37394

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Has anyone ever tried to use 2002/03 Durango/Dakota 5.9 exhaust manifolds on an Early A body? Especially the driver side?
 
I have been researching the same thing, so far what I have found is:
It wont clear the powersteering pump
It wont clear a powersteering colume
Others will know alot more than me. IM going a different route.
 
They have been milling the flange on the drivers side unit to gain clearance...
 
I know you said early A, but I tried this on a manual steering '67 barracuda notch and I could not get one of those to clear. I tried for a couple weekends with a grinder and belt sander slowly taking material away.

I ended up with a magnum manifold on the passenger side and a HP manifold on the drivers side. Both have 2 1/4 inch outlets.
Paid 35$ for the magnum at a local junkyard and $150 for the single HP manifold on Ebay.

Good Luck
 
I'm currently conducting an experiment with "xLURKxDOGx". I've agreed to trade a set of "machined" 360 magnum passenger and "machined" 360 Dakota driver manifolds in exchange for a regular pair of 340 manifolds. He has an early A Mopar and plans to have the engine to manifold surface machined to get more clearance on the steering box. This has already been done by "eestatic" (FABO member). "xLURKxDOGx" has agreed to post his progress on this installation for other members to see how it's done. I sell Dakota driver and 360 magnum manifolds that have machined out to 2 1/4" (exit hole) just like the 340 manifold. I know that early A folks want alternate solutions to their exhaust issues so I've been actively trying to get someone to conduct a good experiment to show that there are good, inexpensive alternatives to headers.
Either way I plan to ship "xLURKxDogx" a set of my machined manifolds to try on his early A.

treblig
 
Thank you all for the responses. I thought of getting the drivers side milled down to see if it would work I just didn't know how much to have taken off or if it could be done. I did put manual steering in it for more room.
 
Norm's Cuda said:
Thank you all for the responses. I thought of getting the drivers side milled down to see if it would work I just didn't know how much to have taken off or if it could be done. I did put manual steering in it for more room.
Click to expand...

Do a search for "eestatic" and you'll know how much to cut.

Treblig
 
Treblig said:
I'm currently conducting an experiment with "xLURKxDOGx". I've agreed to trade a set of "machined" 360 magnum passenger and "machined" 360 Dakota driver manifolds in exchange for a regular pair of 340 manifolds. He has an early A Mopar and plans to have the engine to manifold surface machined to get more clearance on the steering box. This has already been done by "eestatic" (FABO member). "xLURKxDOGx" has agreed to post his progress on this installation for other members to see how it's done. I sell Dakota driver and 360 magnum manifolds that have machined out to 2 1/4" (exit hole) just like the 340 manifold. I know that early A folks want alternate solutions to their exhaust issues so I've been actively trying to get someone to conduct a good experiment to show that there are good, inexpensive alternatives to headers.
Either way I plan to ship "xLURKxDogx" a set of my machined manifolds to try on his early A.

treblig
Click to expand...


Let me know when youre going to send them. :toothy8:

Jake
 
The installations I've seen require manual steering, replacing the pot coupling with a smaller diameter u-joint, shortening the steering column tube, and possible shimming of motor mounts. The passenger side will be really close to the inner fender and a couple strategic dents may be required to prevent rubbing. Machining material from the port face would help both situations.
 
did it on Jake's 65 Bcuda... had to flatten the inner fender on the right side, shimmed the left side motor mount up about 1/4 of an inch, cut the extended collar off the steering column near the firewall, and took the manifolds to a machine shop and had 3/16 taken off the mounting surface of the manifolds. All that with the cast iron heads on his 318.... We just dropped in a stroked 360 with aluminum heads and were able to remove 1/8 of the spacing on the left mount and have about an 1/8 more clearance on the right side now.... Car has standard steering. Would never work on the left side with power steeering. We did not have to get a newer smaller steering column coupler.

our build thread shows it near the end of our build - The teardown of Jake's 65 Begins. I had also posted in Treblig's thread on the subject, and I think I made my own thread in the exhaust forum?
 
Here's an update: I had .125 milled off of the mounting surfaces on both manifolds and ground off the casting numbers too. Took a 1/8 of an inch off the top of the flange were the pipe bolts on by the column, shorten the column tube 1/2 inch and shimmed the engine up 1/8 of an inch on the drivers side. The steering coupler clears with about a 1/16 of an inch gap, and I have to repair the coupler. On the passenger side I removed the casting blank for the air tube and had to tweak the tranny dipstick a little on the passenger side. Now getting the pipes to clear with the kick down linkage installed is the next step! A short oil filter works fine without a 90 degree adapter. The pictures aren't the best but I hope they help some.
 

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Norm's Cuda said:
Here's an update: I had .125 milled off of the mounting surfaces on both manifolds and ground off the casting numbers too. Took a 1/8 of an inch off the top of the flange were the pipe bolts on by the column, shorten the column tube 1/2 inch and shimmed the engine up 1/8 of an inch on the drivers side. The steering coupler clears with about a 1/16 of an inch gap, and I have to repair the coupler. On the passenger side I removed the casting blank for the air tube and had to tweak the tranny dipstick a little on the passenger side. Now getting the pipes to clear with the kick down linkage installed is the next step! A short oil filter works fine without a 90 degree adapter. The pictures aren't the best but I hope they help some.
Click to expand...


Very nice and specific details on how you accomplished this feat!! In your first post you wrote that you used the 2002/03 manifolds, I imagine those would be the smaller outlet ones since no large hole manifolds were made after 98. Either way it still looks like the larger manifolds would work using your tested methods. It might help others if you posted the casting numbers for your manifolds so everyone knows which ones to look for. The pics are great and more pics would be even better!!

thanks,
Treblig
 
You might want to take another 1/2" or so off that column tube, The rubber end boot looks close enough it may cook.
 
Haven't been working on the car much. There is at least an inch of room around the column. Put the kickdown linkage on plenty of clearance. I used flange with two inch id pipe purchased at local parts store then a 45 degree angle pipe weld to that on the passenger side. Then a flange with a slight bend that cleared the starter. Found it laying on it ground in the junkyard no idea what it is off of but it had the two inch opening, I then welded a 90 degree pipe to it on drivers side Both sides dump out at the same place headers would have. My cross member was already modified for TTI headers and their 3 inch exhaust so running the rest should not be a problem. I was thinking of using a kit from Jeg's or Summit from a 67 up abody for the rest.
 
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