Fan Issue Blue Print 360

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mstiffanyann

mstiffanyann

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Knoxville
67 Dart GT, originally 273/904
Blueprint stoke 360
Radiator "Champion Cooling Systems All-Aluminum Radiator 1970-1972 Plymouth Duster & Dodge Dart"
Shroud "Champion Cooling Systems Aluminum Fan Shroud"

What fan are you using? My original fan has the clutch for the stock AC, it does not fit. The engine sits more on the passenger side, so I scooted the new radiator a much as possible without major changes. There is not much room for a fan.

Currently it has a fan off of a 68 Valiant slant 6, as a temporary fix. It does not produce enough air to keep it from overheating, and it needs to go back on that car eventually. It has been fine for 15 minute commute surface street driving the last week. Today finally hit 100 miles, so I tried a little freeway. It did great, however once off the freeway and 6 blocks or so in that it started acting up, and the heat spiked.

I did order "Derale 17015 Heavy Duty Fan Blade Series 1000 15" Stainless Steel Flex Fan Standard Rotation", the first one was used (ordered new) and damaged but looked like it would fit. Sent it back. The replacement was not the same, the blades were much deeper and hit the water pump. I really don't want to keep ordering and returning fans.

The original fan worked just fine with the original radiator on 273/904, 318/904, and self built stroke 360/727. But this blueprint engine is a fatty and takes up so much more space, and gives nothing but trouble when trying to match it to parts. My mixed matched various cars/years on various parts of the change divides built 360 was difficulty to find parts (and you can't use a timing light on it), but at least I knew what years/makes to replace things with and only hard to argue with local part stores. But that was like 15 years ago, and local parts store selection are awful, special order, or they have closed.
 
mstiffanyann said:
67 Dart GT, originally 273/904
Blueprint stoke 360
Radiator "Champion Cooling Systems All-Aluminum Radiator 1970-1972 Plymouth Duster & Dodge Dart"
Shroud "Champion Cooling Systems Aluminum Fan Shroud"

What fan are you using? My original fan has the clutch for the stock AC, it does not fit. The engine sits more on the passenger side, so I scooted the new radiator a much as possible without major changes. There is not much room for a fan.

Currently it has a fan off of a 68 Valiant slant 6, as a temporary fix. It does not produce enough air to keep it from overheating, and it needs to go back on that car eventually. It has been fine for 15 minute commute surface street driving the last week. Today finally hit 100 miles, so I tried a little freeway. It did great, however once off the freeway and 6 blocks or so in that it started acting up, and the heat spiked.

I did order "Derale 17015 Heavy Duty Fan Blade Series 1000 15" Stainless Steel Flex Fan Standard Rotation", the first one was used (ordered new) and damaged but looked like it would fit. Sent it back. The replacement was not the same, the blades were much deeper and hit the water pump. I really don't want to keep ordering and returning fans.

The original fan worked just fine with the original radiator on 273/904, 318/904, and self built stroke 360/727. But this blueprint engine is a fatty and takes up so much more space, and gives nothing but trouble when trying to match it to parts. My mixed matched various cars/years on various parts of the change divides built 360 was difficulty to find parts (and you can't use a timing light on it), but at least I knew what years/makes to replace things with and only hard to argue with local part stores. But that was like 15 years ago, and local parts store selection are awful, special order, or they have closed.
Click to expand...
Blueprint Engines sells several flavors of stroker 408's. Johnny Mac is going to ask you for the serial number on your block, so be prepared to give that to him.

I put a base dressed BPE engine (BPC4085CTC) in my 70 Duster without issue. I used a Flowkooler water pump and stock pulleys. Not sure why your engine is such a "fattie". My engine fit like a glove, and sat into the OE style K frame engine mounts perfectly. I also installed Doug's 453 headers instead of the OE style 340 manifolds. I had a Champion radiator as well. I found an OE style mechanical fan (5 or 6 blade, I don't recall) from a scrapped A/C car, then used a Hayden (short) fan clutch that I got from Summit Racing. I got a shroud from Mancini racing and modified it to fit the Champion radiator. System worked perfectly.
 
Syleng1 said:
Are you using the cast iron water pump and 67 273 pulleys?
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Sounds like not.
'70 up cars came with engines, timing cover, water pump, that match the '70 up radiator support radiator and fan shroud.
When using a later water pump and associated components in the earlier cars some modification is neccessary.
The '70 radiators are taller (IIRC in the core) and sit further back on their mounts. I've resoldered them to allow more room for-aft and to sit low as will fit, but thats not an option with aluminum.

The earlier fans were available in 3, maybe 4 diameters. They have a small notch to clear the bubble top pre-70 radiator top tank.
Before getting anotehr replacement fan, look at the FSM to get a handle on the diameter and blade sizes used for various applications. Also the spacers used in 70 up vs 67-69 down. Theres also at few threads here comparing such things along with various fan clutch dimensions.
 
I have a stroker, but not from Blueprint Engines, I can't imagine what difference it would be Other than maybe the damper. I have a 7 blade clutched fan, aluminium water pump & Griffin Exact Fit radiator (wider core unit for a Charger) I have a damper from Innovators West, its a lot bigger than the original small block one. I had to find a Hemi crank pulley that was a lot shallower which brought the belt too far in, then bought a spacer and had to have a machine shop locally turn it down to what I needed to get the belt\pulleys to align.
Clutch Fan Info

I did need to cut the brackets off the radiator and fashion up some rubber isolation mounts. I had a local radiator shop weld new aluminium tabs on for me.
I also just remembered, I slotted the base for the motor mounts so I could slide the engine & trans back about 1/2". I changed to an O/D trans and
needed a new driveshaft anyway. If I wasn't changing transmission, I might have done that for room anyway, because I had previously slid my axle back about 1/2" for additional clearance for big tires on a Dart.
 
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mstiffanyann said:
67 Dart GT, originally 273/904
Blueprint stoke 360
Radiator "Champion Cooling Systems All-Aluminum Radiator 1970-1972 Plymouth Duster & Dodge Dart"
Shroud "Champion Cooling Systems Aluminum Fan Shroud"

What fan are you using? My original fan has the clutch for the stock AC, it does not fit. The engine sits more on the passenger side, so I scooted the new radiator a much as possible without major changes. There is not much room for a fan.

Currently it has a fan off of a 68 Valiant slant 6, as a temporary fix. It does not produce enough air to keep it from overheating, and it needs to go back on that car eventually. It has been fine for 15 minute commute surface street driving the last week. Today finally hit 100 miles, so I tried a little freeway. It did great, however once off the freeway and 6 blocks or so in that it started acting up, and the heat spiked.

I did order "Derale 17015 Heavy Duty Fan Blade Series 1000 15" Stainless Steel Flex Fan Standard Rotation", the first one was used (ordered new) and damaged but looked like it would fit. Sent it back. The replacement was not the same, the blades were much deeper and hit the water pump. I really don't want to keep ordering and returning fans.

The original fan worked just fine with the original radiator on 273/904, 318/904, and self built stroke 360/727. But this blueprint engine is a fatty and takes up so much more space, and gives nothing but trouble when trying to match it to parts. My mixed matched various cars/years on various parts of the change divides built 360 was difficulty to find parts (and you can't use a timing light on it), but at least I knew what years/makes to replace things with and only hard to argue with local part stores. But that was like 15 years ago, and local parts store selection are awful, special order, or they have closed.
Click to expand...
Good Morning! I'm going to guess most of the percieved issues with the engine is related to us using the 1970+ water pump, and timing cover, and damper. A/C cars always seem to toss another wrench in there with the different spacing pulleys.
I wouldn't mind your serial number, so i can see exactly what engine/trim you bought. or if you can at the very least tell me the part number, and then look at the picture on our site, and tell me it came EXACTLY like that, it would be great. Then I know if we're fighting your water pump, or mine, etc. One 360 based mopar is the same dimension as any other...so not sure what is making it a "fatty" as others have pointed out, unless the pre '70 WP has a shallower depth. May be a touch taller with the Alum heads/intake, but block is a production 360.

Anyways, the aftermarket is full of universal, or multi fit spacers, clutches, etc. just have to watch hanging a ton of weight off the nose of the WP.

Can you get a dimension of how much room you have from the mating surface of the WP, to the radiator?

Let me know about the timing comment too....not sure why you can't set timing unless you have a mishmash of pre and post '70 timing cover/water pump/ damper. I know the early ones had the marks on the pass side. ours is driver.
 
motorpirate said:
I would be willing to bet this is a Radiator problem, and not an engine problem...
Click to expand...
the only real "Problem" I think he has is it gets hot at low speeds, and he knows it's the fan. So may just need a little help figuring out what fan/spacer combo gets him the CFM he needs. Happy to help when we get all the info!
 
Like stated before, it’s the late style pump/radiator and I’ll bet the aluminum radiator is pretty thick. You are so invested in the late style, you should stay with it. However, to get that motor to work in the older style car you just change to the cast iron pump. (Still in stock at parts stores). You can see the timing marks under the inlet if you move your head around or just make a pointer for the passenger side. Then install timing tape in the correct place. The problem is the inlets changed sides and everything you have now is for passenger side inlet?
 
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