Fastest Duster on stockish suspension?

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Also OP, you can fiberglass as much as possible, aluminum as much as possible and forged wheels as much as possible, get the weight way down into the mid to high 2000's & build a very reliable big block that weighs the same as a stock 360 small block. That's just another way to git' er done
 
Oldiron440 said:
Your a moron, built it for 800 you don't need to change much to go slower but thanks for making my point, it can be a ***** to add power but if you don't build it in the first place.
I wouldn't go telling everyone your only making 600hp with Edelbrock heads, seems like somthing you would keep to yourself, hell I have made 650 with 915 heads.
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never had a big block in my life pal. And 600 “ real” horsepower would be a very typical eddie big block bracket build. That’s a low 10 sec car. Most anybody would be happy with such an eddie build on a big block seen tons of them that dont run any better than that with -1’s on them
And yea, your real smart, killing a combo is easy..lol
You implied just a cam swap was worth 200 horsepower( read what you wrote, you dolt)… step in your own ****, dont expect me to do it for you
 
Great replies Guys!

I ran a 68 Dart into the tens with an all iron 452 but.
It was an ex 8.50 car with a pro back half and huge slicks.

So I want to go back and start from scratch with a Plymouth Duster.
Got a nice bare shell and want to run in UK super stock.
Rules are fairly loose, but leafs are priority.

I never run a small block in anger but maybe I should consider this route?
Cost and knowledge wise, it’s easier for me to run a Big block.
Not a 440 block, but a 451 lowdeck 400 all old school like lol.

Always been a big fan of Koffel’s iron headed 451’s.
 
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Now for some safety considerations.

How good a rollcage would I need, if I don’t crash lol?

I’m guessing a 12 point would be good for strength and roll ability too...
 
polyjohn said:
Great replies Guys!

I ran a 68 Dart into the tens with an all iron 452 but.
It was an ex 8.50 car with a pro back half and huge slicks.

So I want to go back and start from scratch with a Plymouth Duster.
Got a nice bare shell and want to run in UK super stock.
Rules are fairly loose, but leafs are priority.

I never run a small block in anger but maybe I should consider this route?
Cost and knowledge wise, it’s easier for me to run a Big block.
Not a 440 block, but a 451 lowdeck 400 all old school like lol.

Always been a big fan of Koffel’s iron headed 451’s.
Click to expand...

How hard are parts to get in the UK? I'd build what I could easily source parts for.

Stroker small blocks think they are big blocks and are easy enough to get the power you'd need to run deep in the 10's. My 408 ran 6.57 in the 1/8 at 3220 pounds on pump 93 shifted at 6400, ported Edelbrocks, 10.8-1 compression, a Hughes flat solid cam, 727, S-60 with 4.10 gears and 325 radials, it would've done it on a 275 too.

If you have a bare shell, you are already starting light. You can reach your goal with a variety of rear spring set up's. If it were me, I'd go with Cal-Tracs (or something similar) either factory springs or mono's, slant 6 or 273/318 bars in the front and Viking D/A shocks all around. Viking shocks aren't that expensive and are a good value. That being said the above mentioned combo was on Rancho 9 ways in the rear and CE 3 ways in the front, so D/A's aren't required. The reason I changed was because a shock on the front and one on the rear went bad, I had stepped up the power and the car was doing some stupid stuff, that's when I found the bad shocks. I figured it was a good time for better shocks.

You have a blank canvas to start with, build what makes YOU giggle and go have some fun.

Justin
 
polyjohn said:
Now for some safety considerations.

How good a rollcage would I need, if I don’t crash lol?

I’m guessing a 12 point would be good for strength and roll ability too...
Click to expand...
6,8,10 any of them
 
B3422w5 said:
never had a big block in my life pal. And 600 “ real” horsepower would be a very typical eddie big block bracket build. That’s a low 10 sec car. Most anybody would be happy with such an eddie build on a big block seen tons of them that dont run any better than that with -1’s on them
And yea, your real smart, killing a combo is easy..lol
You implied just a cam swap was worth 200 horsepower( read what you wrote, you dolt)… step in your own ****, dont expect me to do it for you
Click to expand...
Your mouth is dribbling bs with make believe combinations. I haven't seen anything but TF heads on bb mopars since they came out, the last one was a 383 with a 4.25 crank, it made 765 hp with out of the box 240 TF heads. I don't know why anyone would use Edelbrock heads I've seen more dropped valves, valve seats and junk castings that Edelbrock would not stand behind.
I suppose with your thinking the NASCAR builders put less of a motor in for restrictor plate racing.
 
Oldiron440 said:
Your mouth is dribbling bs with make believe combinations. I haven't seen anything but TF heads on bb mopars since they came out, the last one was a 383 with a 4.25 crank, it made 765 hp with out of the box 240 TF heads. I don't know why anyone would use Edelbrock heads I've seen more dropped valves, valve seats and junk castings that Edelbrock would not stand behind.
I suppose with your thinking the NASCAR builders put less of a motor in for restrictor plate racing.
Click to expand...

I am deffo in the “old iron 440” club myself.
I have a 71 Gtx that will be an all iron 440 for fun and some track days!
What will it run is neither here or there, it will be what it will be, lol...

But I also want to run Tens again, not for me but for my Mopar mates who have yet to have that thrill...

So being a pensioner with a piss-poor budget, it’s gotta be a ‘cheap as chips’ 10 second lightweight Duster on springs lol...
 
Thanx for your wonderful reply Justin.

Parts are easy to get these days, all you need is a laptop and a healthy bank balance lol.

Got a lot of parts here already which I have collected for nearly 40 years!

Once you drive a Mopar, you is ‘hooked for life’...

The more I see Ford and Chevy guys having ‘cheap fun’ at the 1320, I get my credit card out and start buying expensive Moparts and upset the good wife all over again DOH.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Just out of curiosity, why 4.10s with a 29inch tire?
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Shooting for 125-126 mph.
29” tire and 4.10’s at that speed is 6000rpm at the drive shaft.
Add in 8-10% converter slip...... you’re at 65-6600 engine rpm.
Good place to be for lots of trouble free runs with a decent 408/416.

A 28” tire would add about 200rpm.
 
Whatever is easier for you to get parts for. If you have a bunch of low deck stuff and a 400 block. There you go. Tell everyone its just a 383! Small blocks fit nicely in an A body. Point is you goal really wouldn’t be taxing any of them BB/low deck/SB. Availability, probably biggest factor. If you can run a split mono in the class. It gives you options. SS springs work fine, but the idea of them was to control the tire with the spring, not the shock. They are pretty stiff.
 
PRH said:
Shooting for 125-126 mph.
29” tire and 4.10’s at that speed is 6000rpm at the drive shaft.
Add in 8-10% converter slip...... you’re at 65-6600 engine rpm.
Good place to be for lots of trouble free runs with a decent 408/416.

A 28” tire would add about 200rpm.
Click to expand...

Looking at it a step deeper......
Any half way decently set up car(not being run at high altitude tracks) should be able to run at a performance level within about 10% of the corrected dyno hp and what’s predicted based on the power/weight ratio.
I usually plan pessimisticaly.
So, I’m figuring on weighing 3500lbs and needing 600hp(STP corrected).

Take 10% off the 600 power number, you’re at 540hp.

6.5lbs/hp puts you at 10.52@126, which if you weigh 3500lbs, is 538hp.

29F3B87F-C33B-4330-96A3-345D10B08882.jpeg


If the car is lighter, or is better than a 90% combo...... it’ll just go quicker.
 
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Oldiron440 said:
Your mouth is dribbling bs with make believe combinations. I haven't seen anything but TF heads on bb mopars since they came out, the last one was a 383 with a 4.25 crank, it made 765 hp with out of the box 240 TF heads. I don't know why anyone would use Edelbrock heads I've seen more dropped valves, valve seats and junk castings that Edelbrock would not stand behind.
I suppose with your thinking the NASCAR builders put less of a motor in for restrictor plate racing.
Click to expand...
Probably more big blocks out there with Eddie heads than trick flows.
Not at all saying they are some great head. Just saying they will run bottom ten’s in a decent combo.
That said, your an idiot
 
PRH said:
Shooting for 125-126 mph.
29” tire and 4.10’s at that speed is 6000rpm at the drive shaft.
Add in 8-10% converter slip...... you’re at 65-6600 engine rpm.
Good place to be for lots of trouble free runs with a decent 408/416.

A 28” tire would add about 200rpm.
Click to expand...
Okay thanks
 
B3422w5 said:
I went well into the 9’s at 3350 pounds with full interior, back seat, not minitubbed, 28 by 10 tire, super stock springs, abd cheap CE 3way on all four corners.only fiberglass was the bumpers and hood scoop
Car was deadly consistent..1.34 60 foot, would hook anywhere.
W5 smallblockView attachment 1715847051
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This was/is a very impressive combo!

No disrespect to Ken, but stock eliminator cars don’t count in this conversation. NOTHING stock about them; every area of the car is touched and retouched to gain performance with a limited (cough, cough) “stock” motor.

That said, here is a real world combo that was simple and cheap:
70 Duster
Cage, frame tied
Glass hood trunk and bumpers
4.56 gear, 29.5 slicks
416 stroker
12:1 car
RHS iron magnum style heads
Non roller flat tappet cam
30 year old Holley 800
8” converter

Best of 10.14/130 through the mufflers. 10.20’s all day, anywhere.

A 10 second a body car is not rocket science, but if money is spent in the right places it will feel like it!
 
Nice replies Guys.
I would love to go smallblock but I don’t have any go faster goodies at the moment.
Some guys here are into 408’s now, BUT they seem to have a very short ‘drag life’...
So as it’s a smallish engine compartment I guess low deck is the way forwards for me!
Gonna be ‘old skool’ 451ci iron heads and fingers crossed lol...

Many thanx for replies and ideas on this subject.
550 real world horsepower is needed methinks?

Hopefully a 30 spline 8 3/4 will ‘take the strain???
 
IMO, if the car is light and not subject to a heavy shock launch load, it’ll be OK. Personally I would not want to push a 8-3/4 past a 550 lbs/TQ level and be pounded on with a 4spd side step of the clutch type of life. At least with an automatic, you can load the transmission at the line, foot brake or trans brake and release the beast.

Do you have high strength axles in it?
As I said earlier, I wouldn’t go to far modifying the stock rear axle. Just the axles w/green bearings, a back brace and reenforce the axle perch’s. Guys have gotten the high strength caps for the center section and gone through other mods, for myself, it just becomes a lot for something you could have upgraded to a level that has no worries. Then the choice is a DANA or a Ford 9.
 
rumblefish360 said:
IMO, if the car is light and not subject to a heavy shock launch load, it’ll be OK. Personally I would not want to push a 8-3/4 past a 550 lbs/TQ level and be pounded on with a 4spd side step of the clutch type of life. At least with an automatic, you can load the transmission at the line, foot brake or trans brake and release the beast.

Do you have high strength axles in it?
As I said earlier, I wouldn’t go to far modifying the stock rear axle. Just the axles w/green bearings, a back brace and reenforce the axle perch’s. Guys have gotten the high strength caps for the center section and gone through other mods, for myself, it just becomes a lot for something you could have upgraded to a level that has no worries. Then the choice is a DANA or a Ford 9.
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my pooch busted an 8.75 running 10.70’s off the foot at 3320 race weight, this past summer
Years ago i broke another 8.75 going 10.30’s-40’s off the foot at 3350
 
B3422w5 said:
my pooch busted an 8.75 running 10.70’s off the foot at 3320 race weight, this past summer
Years ago i broke another 8.75 going 10.30’s-40’s off the foot at 3350
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I know a guy that ran one in a all steel (minus hood) full interior ‘69 Dart w/a 500 Indy head solid roller running 9’s for years. Not that, that is a “Go Ahead!” for me or for anyone else. For now, when money allows or when I have to, I’ll be running the 8-3/4. I’ll also be looking for a lighter race weight than what you listed as I think it’s heavy for the rear end & what it’s doing.

If your trying to make a point…. your point is……….

I know, I know, **** happens!
 
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rumblefish360 said:
I know a guy that ran one in a all steel (minus hood) full interior ‘69 Dart w/a 500 Indy head solid roller running 9’s for years. Not that, that is a “Go Ahead!” for me or for anyone else. For now, when money allows or when I have to, I’ll be running the 8-3/4. I’ll also be looking for a lighter race weight than what you listed as I think it’s heavy for the rear end & what it’s doing.

If your trying to make a point…. your point is……….

I know, I know, **** happens!
Click to expand...

my point is weight is really what kills the 8.75.
I weight 320, and like the “ stockish” non cut up racecar type of deal, so most of my cars are heavier than they might otherwise be.
The rear i broke this past summer i replaced with a brand new Moser pig. Nodular case, billet adjusters, etc, etc…because i couldnt find some Dana parts i needed.
My plan is to sell this now fresh rear and install an S60 before the car comes out this upcoming season…..it might live with everything being brand new and the better case..but gonna quit while i am ahead
 
Hey, I just re read my reply to you and I think I came off like a dickhead. I meant it to be kind of funny, but, now that I reread it I don’t think that’s the way it reads to everyone else. My apologies. But yeah I get it! Weight will kill it. That’s what I was saying earlier. I just wouldn’t want to modify the original rear too far since an upgrade would be cheaper and better in the long run. Good luck with that Mosier, I hear very good things. A friend of mine runs one and likes it very much.

B3422w5 said:
my point is weight is really what kills the 8.75.
I weight 320, and like the “ stockish” non cut up racecar type of deal, so most of my cars are heavier than they might otherwise be.
The rear i broke this past summer i replaced with a brand new Moser pig. Nodular case, billet adjusters, etc, etc…because i couldnt find some Dana parts i needed.
My plan is to sell this now fresh rear and install an S60 before the car comes out this upcoming season…..it might live with everything being brand new and the better case..but gonna quit while i am ahead
Click to expand...
 
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