Fat Blue Fish Build

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Here is the latest.....it's still drying cause we have rain today.

Two wires, 2 bolts and 8 quick connect hoses and it goes in or comes out for service....I am installing it Friday night and if all goes well we will be up/downable.

Mop

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Thanks 5.7.....I am already way over it.

He is in business, I am working at pleasures pace. Bad mix.

I already have done more in 8 hrs here than I did since the show there.

All I wanted was a few things done so I could get out...he did them at the last minute so everything is OK.....we are on good terms.

The ball is rolling faster here as I am home and more comfortable now.

Mop
 
Great day today even with colder weather...got a lot done today.

Completed the fuel line now I need to wire.
Completed installation of the air ride system including running all the control wires, pressure capillary tubes for the gauges in and switches in the console and home run tubes to the front and rear Shockwaves them selves.
Installed the Main disconnect switch located just under my seat on the right.


Lots of little miniscule things were also done...tomorrow we install the dash again and start to tie everything together.

Enjoy my labor.

Mop
 
The handle that is going under the drivers seat... is that the control for the air suspension?
 
Neg....emergency power disconnect.

I want to be able to kill power to most components in a second or two if needed.

I will run power to car for ignition, lights, dash, etc. from that point.
 
Are you gonna cover the fuel pump/filter?.....looks right behind the tire.
 
.......good Q.

Do I or do I.

Billet...solid construction...space shuttle shiz.

Should withstand a 10G gale force wind with floppy trailer homes projectile launched at 200kps straight at it.....but maybe not a blown out tire....?

No.....I have not crossed that bridge yet.

If you have a good idea and reason other than the obvious I am listening.

I am always welcome to another idea.


Mop.

Dash installed ....under dash harness roughed in.....brake fluid and bleeding started.....leaks..leaks everywhere leaks...:sad6:
 
Better quote.

Yes after further review I will fabricate an extension to the wheel housing and shoot it with the same awesome undercoating so it blends in...I will tie it off the pinch welds.

Thanks for your astute observation.

Mop
 
momoparman said:
Better quote.

Yes after further review I will fabricate an extension to the wheel housing and shoot it with the same awesome undercoating so it blends in...I will tie it off the pinch welds.

Thanks for your astute observation.

Mop
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8).......great build by the way
 
Looking for info on voltage regulators....Jegs has 5 different kinds...I am running a POWER MASTER 110 amp alternator now and I need to upgrade my regulator. Mopar performance has two constant voltage types (13.4 volts) and a muscle car replacement type (11.4 to 13-4 volts)

What do I use and what is the difference besides the constant voltage on the performance or RACE regulators.

Am I right in thinking that constant 13.4v to the step down resistor on the dash that feeds the dash gauges is a bad thing?

Comments!

Mop
 
Make sure you bypass the amp gauge if you want to run that alt. If it's that high amperage, isn't it internally regulated? if not just run a good reg., mopar blue or a good Standard brand.
I had my alt rebuilt with a reg on the underside of it, and it puts out about 70 or so amps. I know you need more since you have more items that need power though.
 
Internally regulated.....damn good question. It came in my BS true track kit and the paper work is scattered....let me look into that.

Thanks,

Mop.
 
I did not see anything on the paperwork indication if it is internally regulated or not....great instructions also.....if you know your GM products.
 
What type of alt is it? I know you said Powermaster, but what style?? GM or Mopar?
 
If I read the instructions right on Billet specialties.....its a internally regulated one wire alternator. ixnay the regulator wires to the alt.
 
Yes it is a bot confusing....the info I got with the alternator makes no mention of either. I believe it is a GM style as it is NOT a Mopar type.

I am calling Billet.

Thanks,

Mop
 
Sorry I have not posted pics lately...me busy trying to stay in business.

I have 27 days till the motor is crap.

Count down with me.

Mop
 
Cam flat spot? I am not sure the builder told me I should get it running in less than 30...maybe cause its new...maybe cause its a solid cam/lifter motor...I don't know so I am following his advice.

Mop
 
momoparman said:
Cam flat spot? I am not sure the builder told me I should get it running in less than 30...maybe cause its new...maybe cause its a solid cam/lifter motor...I don't know so I am following his advice.

Mop
Click to expand...

I don't agree with your builder. Just prime the engine, turn the crank by hand, prime some more, then if needed, pull the valve covers and pour some breakin lube on the rockers. Use GOOD oil and break in lube to start it and you will have no problems.
If its any consolation, I just fired a 500"(440 source) that was built in about December?? Sounds great. A falcon with a 200, built last year as well. It's all in prep up to the firing. BTW, I use Brad Penn oil, it's the old Kendall GT-1 "green oil", 20w-50.
 
Yes I agree.....but going that far to prime and all I might as well get it fired up right?

I think he's being cautious.

Mop
 
Sorry....been a long weekend.

I have been working on wiring....more like dragging it out. They hang for a few days so they straighten out.

In the mean times I need to remove a header...drag...plugs, column....etc to get at my starter and route the wires in an inconspicuous manner + my crappy T on the front brake line is still leaking....should of used galvanized tubing instead of stainless.

So I am starting on the console shifter mods as we deal with wires and in an effort to move forward I am also putting together the instrument cluster/bezel and all switches inside after hours.

So I got bored ans started working on the shifter as it all needs to go together anyway.......got the old shifter mount out and the new shifter mocked up at proper height. Noticed a few problems that have solutions...at least the one's I have encountered so far.

To get clearance without hacking your ratchet shifter in half you will have to hack your console indicating light housing in half.

But whats worse....anyway I am finalizing height and will be hacking the old mount down to proper specs to get it just under the console cover and keep it from hitting in front in P or at end of stroke in 1.

Stay tuned....I need new 4" wheels for my grinder.

Also a pic of a simple mod to bring detail into your interior.....simply polish your high beam switch.....It's chrome believe it or not.

3 more comming

Mop

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