Father-Son 1974 Duster Project

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TF360 said:
No luck D/D
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I am the luckiest man on earth!
I am married to a amazing beautiful girl, have 5 good kids who are all healthy. We have enough for ourselves and some extra to help those who are in need. A comfortable home with 3 garages. AND I have this cool old car that I built from stuff other people thought was junk!
Luckiest man alive!!
 
They're never really done, but you just graduated from garage ornament to a one car parade!
 
My one car parade had an alternator bearing that was starting to screech pretty bad. A new 78 amp alternator went in the car tonight.
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89on35s said:
That 2 groove pulley will come in handy when you install the AC components!

Cley
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I figured with the ac bump up to 78 amps from 60 and have the double groove pulley.
I must say, this stock electrical system and harness is performing wonderfully in this car. I made sure to clean and use noalox on all the connections. My lights are bright and everything works great.
 
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Oh geez Shawn, I'm not sure but I do want the stuff. PM me what you're looking to get for it.
Maybe I can swing it.
 
No hurry, it's still all bolted to the motor, so it's not taking up any space.
 
TF360 said:
D/D whats noalox
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It’s an anti oxidant compound. Mostly used where aluminum wire is physically connected with copper to prevent aluminum oxide oxidation.

Dielectric grease imho is worthless in a low voltage automotive environment.

Noalox will prevent all oxidation in a connection by keeping moisture and air out of the connection. That white-greenish crusty stuff won’t form on the spades or sockets with noalox on the connection

I wouldn’t have a socket connection in the car plugged together without noalox.
 
Its an anti oxidant. Great at preventing that greenish crud from forming on conductors in plugs like the firewall connectors and other plugs in our cars.

Dielectric grease is to prevent arcing in a physical connection like a split bolt bug insulated with rubber.
 
Considering which suspension parts to use for the front end rehab. Had a local alignment guy tell me that the pitman and idler arms don’t wear out on these cars but who wants to do all that work only to find they need to be replaced after the fact? She goes down the road straight, no shimmy but man she groans and creeks makes all kinds of friggin noise on bumps. I know I’ll stay with stock control arms. Not sure on the bushings, but for sure will add a Hellwig sway bar and a set of good adjustable shocks.
Your $.02 welcome...
 
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I have found that on these mopars normally the first thing to wear out is the idler arm.

When you redo the front I suggest buying the suspension tools from Mancini racing, they will make the job much easier.
 
Moans and groans and creaks. What is funny is that with the exception of the 72 Swinger that had the HDK up front all of mine needed something. I guess I would have had an idea before putting them back together but none of my cars were running and driving when I got them!
 
I have faced the cold hard fact it would be stupid to not replace everything on the suspension while it’s apart. I’ve decided to go with all Moog parts. Bushings, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends. Strut rod bushings, pitman and idler arms. All of it. Even some tortion bar dust boots! Gunna keep scraping up pennies to gather all the parts...
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That’s the way....if you are going to get in there....well hell, go deep....I am struggling with this concept on the 72. I am going to sell the car, if I go that deep I will literally lose my ***. Lol
 
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