Favorite Big Block Roller Rockers

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The problem with the ^ 'certain number of cycles' ^ is that nobody knows what that number is......
Steel & S/steel do not have that problem. Considering the choice available now in steel rockers compared to a few years back & the good price, it beats me why anybody would risk using alum rockers.
 
I appreciate all the info, makes more since now with the aluminum rockers being somewhat of a time bomb on the street. I will take a look at the steel options and stick with 1.5 ratio. I’m making sure the cam is right off the bat. I do like the look of the Comp Cams, Mancini and the RAS.
 
AndyF said:
RAS are the best street rockers if you can find them. (and afford them). After that the next best is the Comp steel rocker arms.
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What makes them best?
Not arguing just asking because they look stout and I want some. Is it everything, like fit, finish, geometry, etc?
 
CoDart said:
Also, why is there some hate for needle bearings in these systems?
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It is either rapid bleed off of the oil pressure or the greater risk of failure.

It may have already been mentioned but…
Who has seen the new iron rockers from 440 Source?
I heard they are patterned after the Max Wedge design. They will certainly be Chinese made but they may be more durable than aluminum.
 
Kern Dog said:
It is either rapid bleed off of the oil pressure or the greater risk of failure.

It may have already been mentioned but…
Who has seen the new iron rockers from 440 Source?
I heard they are patterned after the Max Wedge design. They will certainly be Chinese made but they may be more durable than aluminum.
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Perfect thank you. Good info
 
Kern Dog said:
It is either rapid bleed off of the oil pressure or the greater risk of failure.

It may have already been mentioned but…
Who has seen the new iron rockers from 440 Source?
I heard they are patterned after the Max Wedge design. They will certainly be Chinese made but they may be more durable than aluminum.
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By the pictures, they look pretty sweet. Says ball to ball pushrods as well..
 
Best bang for the buck is PRW stainless with a geometry correction kit from B3 Racing/ Mike. He's a member on the forum.
 
CoDart said:
Can you tell me what the geometry correction kit entails?
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It's a custom shim kit that moves the rocker arm shaft to the proper place on the rocker stand to correct rocker arm geometry.
 
Kern Dog said:
These are the 1.5 Mancini rockers.

View attachment 1716204117

The 1.6 ratio were just plain aluminum.
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My Speedmaster offset rocker set look just like those , color wise. They are gonna be an experiment, since they were on sale at a quarter the price of Hughes, and $1000 less than HS. (I know, I know. Sometimes you get what you pay for.)
I ran comp stainless in my Cortina, they were bulletproof at the spring pressure I was running.. if I could find OFFSET stainless for Victor heads, I would buy them.
 
CoDart said:
Can you tell me what the geometry correction kit entails?
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Look up B3 racing engines, Mike has a tech page on rocker arm geometry. It will tell you all you need to know about the importance of proper geometry.
 
fishmens67 said:
Look up B3 racing engines, Mike has a tech page on rocker arm geometry. It will tell you all you need to know about the importance of proper geometry.
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I took a look and emailed Mike to asked about one of his kits. Appreciate people bringing this to my attention, otherwise I would have slapped something one and just went with it
 
CoDart said:
Hey guys, looking for a little help. I’m putting my 383 back together after a long hiatus of sitting. I want to know thoughts and opinions on a good set of roller rockers. I am putting a hydraulic roller cam in the motor and I have Edelbrock RPM heads on the motor. It’s a 10.75 to 1 motor, have a cam with about 540 lift in it. any direction would be helpful. Going to be a hot street car, not a race car
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I have a 10.5 to 1 440 with a purple shaft .557, and I'm using the stock Mopar ductile iron adjustables, (probably sixty years old).
If I were you.... prw stainless, or the new 440 source ductile irons. Rollers are not really necessary for .540 lift.. If crane or isky ductiles were still available new, either would be my 100% recommendation
 
33IMP said:
I have a 10.5 to 1 440 with a purple shaft .557, and I'm using the stock Mopar ductile iron adjustables, (probably sixty years old).
If I were you.... prw stainless, or the new 440 source ductile irons. Rollers are not really necessary for .540 lift.. If crane or isky ductiles were still available new, either would be my 100% recommendation
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I figured I’d go with rollers as I am going to be using a hydraulic roller can. Sorry I just realized I missed that in my original post. Want as an effective valve train as I can. I am leaning towards both options you mentioned
 
CoDart said:
I figured I’d go with rollers as I am going to be using a hydraulic roller can. Sorry I just realized I missed that in my original post. Want as an effective valve train as I can. I am leaning towards both options you mentioned
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I am impressed with B3, and his correction kits. But as I understand it, they are necessary for high lift because of the roller tip rocker.
I have never heard of anyone using a correction kit with a sweep rocker, or needing one.
I may be misinformed.
 
33IMP said:
I have a 10.5 to 1 440 with a purple shaft .557, and I'm using the stock Mopar ductile iron adjustables, (probably sixty years old).
If I were you.... prw stainless, or the new 440 source ductile irons. Rollers are not really necessary for .540 lift.. If crane or isky ductiles were still available new, either would be my 100% recommendation
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440 Source is now selling ductile iron rockers.
 
Bobzilla said:
What makes them best?
Not arguing just asking because they look stout and I want some. Is it everything, like fit, finish, geometry, etc?
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Yes, all of that. If you have the RAS and the Comp rocker arms in your hands you'll see the difference. The RAS rockers are very stout, they have a bronze bushing, the oiling is well thought out, they use a high quality adjuster, they have very heavy duty shaft hold downs and they include nice spacers and shims in the kit. It is a very high end set of rocker arms.

Or it was. I haven't bought a new set from RAS since they went out of business the first time. I used to buy rockers from them all the time then the business went sideways. I assume that they are still selling the same grade of hardware now that they were then but I don't know that for a fact.
 
Taken from @AndyF, I wouldn’t mind having an older set of these.

IMG_7046.jpeg



IMG_7045.jpeg
 
All these rocker arms (and there are some great ones featured),
ALL evolved from Harland Sharp.
I have a set that has lasted over 20 years ON A SOLID LIFTER CAM MOTOR.
It's the only brand I will ever run.
 
fishmens67 said:
He wouldn't need the correction kit if he used those.
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They also have a set of stainless steel rollers. Just off hand they look great to me.

Why would you not need a correction kit with the ductile iron ones vs using a correction kit with rollers?
 
CoDart said:
Why would you not need a correction kit with the ductile iron ones vs using a correction kit with rollers?
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Ductile iron rockers have a larger contact area across the valve tip , roller rockers have a smaller contact area. Thus no need for correction
With the varying fulcrum lengths of different roller rockers some put the contact area on the edge of of the valve during the lift cycle, you don't want this as it can wear out the valve guides.
Optimum is to have have the roller provide a .030 sweep in the center of the valve during a cycle.
The correction kit is custom made for a given roller rocker arm system and head, each application is specific.
 
Everything Fishmen said.... plus the rocker geometry was designed for sweep rockers and moderate lift. (Maxwedge had around .500 in '63)
Rollers, and .600+ lift is where stuff gets sketchy.
 
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