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Who has used it? Which springs did you use? Do you like it? Thank you drive through.
I use them all the time for curving and limiting totals, and they work. It is the ONE available performance upgrade available for the Mopar electronic distributor. (use one light spring in the place of the big spring and it will give you a quicker curve all in by about 2,500 R's and set the plate at the 18 degree slots) That will get you able to do around 16 degrees on intial and 34 total (approximate) Of course you can also limit it more and use more initial, or lock it at zero if you ever had the need. Is that what you wanted to know?
Thanks. I am just wanting to see what different results people have and how they like it. Do you ever experience any binding or sticking of the mechanical advance mechanism? I put mine on the 16 degree slot. I plan to run 20* initial and see what happens. This is in a small block distributor going in my 331 Hemi. I have done a TON of reading and talking to some locals with early and 426 Hemis. ll agree that the design of the Hemi chamber makes it possible to run more timing early on in the RPM range. One friend runs his 392 with 21 initial and 16 mechanical with the two light silver springs. All in by 2100. No spark knock and he is at 9.6:1. I at 9.3:1. I figure with the camshaft I have and the Hemi chamber, I will be safe. We'll see.
Sure, I think you could try both the silver springs to get the "all in" sooner but watch that initial with both in it because it will want to start advancing REALLY early in the RPM's (maybe even jump around a bit at idle) Never had a sticking problem that I know of (I'd probably feel that easy enough) but it sure makes an otherwise stockish smallblock get snappier with those mods. There was a seat of the pants difference in the amount of throttle needed to roll the car down the road. It probably an apples to oranges comparison with a Hemi vs LA or Magnum though. Those products do the job they are intended for in any case.
I've used them . I was shooting for a 20 initial to help with the cam choices. No sticking issues. I noticed over the years the design and part # had changed from 4 advance choices to 6 choices (J685 now J685s) Good simple fix to get the job done in the dizzy department.
I have that setup in my car. It makes it very easy to recurve the distributor. I think my current setting is ten degrees allowed by the FBO limiter and one silver spring and one stock spring. 20 degrees initial and I'm all in by 2800 RPM. With that setup I'm still at 35 total with no VA. I have tried several combinations and I will be changing jets and PV again soon and will have to reset slot sync but I am getting very close to tuning nirvana. Wideband helps immensely!
Yes, I have one now. I can't remember what springs, but I don't have total timing till a little later than most. If it's what you need, then it's a great investment.
Never seen one,318W.R.... what's the deal.....?
this is what I bought Mopar Distributor/Ignition Timing Limiter
Thanks! Something new, to learn...
That's what I have, in my stock distributor with Pertronix conversion and matched Pertronix coil.
I'm using one in my slant six. It runs a lot better with about 13* initial, and I think I've limited it to 31 total with stock springs. I'm running a stock emissions vacuum canister with something like 16* of advance, so I don't want a quick curve since I already get a touch of part throttle ping on really hot days in certain conditions. Not to mention, it's a slow car already, so I didn't feel the need to limit my vacuum canister to get a little quicker curve...man, why am I rambling? I have used one and it seems to work and I like it.
Not that it's a big deal or anything, but you can send $22.00 directly to FBO at 4secondsflat.com rather than use Ebay. $25 on Ebay is to cover the seller fees.
Let us know RRR. Sounds interesting !
In talking to Bob and Erick at Hot Heads, they said 30 degrees total and between 15-20 initial. That's for 10 to 1 compression.
I would go along with that if mine was 10:1 and had a milder camshaft. I've talked to those guys a LOT, as the early hemi is new to me. I tore back into er and removed one of the silver springs and replaced it with the stock light spring. I got to thinking about it and remembered I had put both the light springs in the 351M in the F250. It was too much. It had a slight erratic idle because it was trying to advance at idle. lol Gonna be a while before I see how it runs, but I have one more piece of the puzzle done. Next I am going to install the adapter plate and transmission. That will be a big chunk knocked out.
I've used it & it is the absolute hand down best bang for the buck for setting mech adv degrees. it is a .035" thin round metal plate 2.5"OD with a center hole 19/32" ID & (5) pairs of rectangular holes to limit the weight(s) travel. it has holes for 10-12-14-16-18 crank degrees of mech adv.
Got two setups from trailbeast and loved them. They are all I will run now. His distributor alone knocked .35 seconds off my 1/8 mile time in my 64 valiant. Learned from him and now have built 3 of my own that have performed great. Only difference is use of a pertronix ignitor. What's cool is a the FBO plate works on a points style or electronic distributor and you have made your distributor very tuneable on the cheap. Cant beat it. Basic rock auto distributor-$40 FBO plate & springs -$40 Pertronix ignitor II -$95
You missed the "0" timing slot for lock down applications... thanks for the Kudos
Price is now $25.00 but we include the shipping eBay or direct.
Hey rusty, what did you do to get compression in your 331? Custom pistons? I getting ready to build one also
Got mine installed yesterday on a back up distributor. Then plugged it in. Works well. Initial 16 total 32 at about 2800. Already ordered another plate for my other diz.
The plates are a much easier approach than welding/filing the slots...
I used the 1955 only 8.5:1 pistons and milled the head .025". You have to be careful milling the heads since the chambers are totally round. It does not take much to remove a gob of CCs. Also, the intake face of the heads is dramatic, so it also requires milling a good bit. Mine had to be milled .060 so the intake would fit correctly.
Rob you used these? How do you like them? I ordered a kit, have not found time to play with it