FBO or MSD what do you use?

what do you like?

  • msd

    Votes: 120 63.5%

  • FBO

    Votes: 40 21.2%

  • other and tell me what

    Votes: 29 15.3%
  • Total voters
    189
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Neve used or heard of the other brands i saw but i have used the MSD on my slant and it works pretty good. Im going to work on getting in my Swinger when i get the head gasket fixed :/
 
Never really used an aftermarket ignition before my Dart.

At first I had a stock distributor, light pickup spring, Mopar Orange Box & Blaster coil, with Accel custom cut wires (everything new). I had constant ignition issues (wandering idle, stumble under acceleration).

I ordered the FBO system (complete, except for wires) and the car ran SOOOoooo much better. Being my 360 is a little 9:1 motor, I just couldn't see going to an MSD system. The FBO is much cheaper and works great.
 
I run MSD6AL box, Pro Billet Distributor and Blaster II coil and MSD spark plug wires on my daily driver.

My only ***** with MSD stuff is the Distributor and Rotor getting rust residue...I tried sealing it with Silicon, but that didn't help.

I just ordered a new Cap & Rotor from Summit ( $40.00)
 
I used FBO's complete system including his recurved distributor on my 340 with bolt on upgrades, cam intake headers demon carb...........That thing worked awsome..........what I did not like is that it does not have a rev limiter, miss a shift with a 4 speed or break the drive train with your foot to the floor and KABOOM is a huge possibility, also no multispark for the guys with the bigger cams who will need it. On my new set up I am using Don's Coil his recurved dist and MSD Digital 6 Ignition. The digital 6 has a 2 stage rev limiter, multi spark, timing retard for starts and nitrous retard capability should work out well.
 
Wanting to upgrade the ignition system on my '70 Duster 340, stock bottom end and heads, flat tappet hydraulic cam ?????, 625 cfm AFB, Performer RPM, TTI's, manual reverse pattern 904. Many mods to come in future and want a system that will cover anything in the future. I was pretty confused before I ran across this thread but now I'm only REALLY confused! HELP
 
skybolt said:
Wanting to upgrade the ignition system on my '70 Duster 340, stock bottom end and heads, flat tappet hydraulic cam ?????, 625 cfm AFB, Performer RPM, TTI's, manual reverse pattern 904. Many mods to come in future and want a system that will cover anything in the future. I was pretty confused before I ran across this thread but now I'm only REALLY confused! HELP
Click to expand...

Depends on just how many mods are to come. If it's a street/strip buildup, maybe a stroker, but not revving past 6000 RPM or so, I'd go with a FBO or Davis distributor. And you'd definitely want vacuum advance if the "street" part is more than in name only. If you envision an 8000 RPM screamer, I'd go with an MSD setup, or Mallory. Inductive igntions like the FBO lose energy at high RPM because of their dwell requirements.

And remember, getting the distributor curved right is more important than spark energy on your typical buildup. It's only when you see astronomical compression ratios, high RPM, or forced induction that energy is a big factor.
 
I went looking for Jacobs ignitions and it took me to the Acell site. Anyone got a link to check out jacobs.
Andrew
 
Both Jacobs and Accel have been bought out by Mr. Gasket, which is now bought out by Prestolite. It would appear they've dropped the Jacobs line, since the Prestolite Performance group currently has Accel, Mallory, and Jacobs in its roster of brands, and Jacobs probably was the least valuable and most damaged of their brands. If there were any good parts remaining in the Jacobs line, they're probably been rebadged as Accel or Mallory items.
 
I had an FBO distributor at one time. It leaked internally and was really sloppy. Needless to say, I was not impressed. It wasn't phased properly either.

I invested in an MSD digital E curve, and was impressed. Phased properly, instant starting under hot conditions. Very easy tuning and a real MAP sensor inside for vacuum advance. Very impressive piece in my opinion, not cheap though.
 
needsaresto said:
My ignition experiences;

Mallory hi fire.Lasted a month.Crap.
Orange box.Ran it for a day.Paled in comparison to the fbo.
Stock mopar.No trouble other than the odd ballast resistor popping
FBO.Love it!3 years of daily driving and still running strong.Seat of the pants feel way better than any other ign .Had trouble with the resistor ,but it wasnt the msd one at the time.Now I use the msd,no trouble
Jacobs.Limited to thier coils and wires but liked both.Coil solved a stalling issue on my dads /6 truck back in 90.Still in there and still running strong.
Click to expand...

I should ad that I ran an Accel coil for a whle.It cracked and leaked oil ,causing a hard/no start situation. Was not happy with it.

The FBO ign is still on the car. I sold it and it is STILL running strong 5 years later. I also solved the ballast resistors popping by spacing the ballast out from the wall. I put a nut behind it..

No doubt in my mind that if Don at FBO sold a multi spark I would buy it there. But my big block will be running a big cam and may need that multi spark to help fire at low rpm's.
 
MSD hands down the best ignition system i've used,installed it on 2 different cars coudn't be happier with the results,and zero problems unlike other systems..
 
This is the thread I have been wanting to start myself to ask some questions... luckily I found this one & all my questions have been answered.

Thanks!
 
dart msd dist,6a,blaster2 d 100 mopar elec,orange box msd blaster,d200 mopar elec. chrome box(bought for dart)msd dist in dart came in a car i bought and sold it was brand new never run.saved 29.00 made my own bushing for advance thanks crackedback! alot
 
The best ignition box by far, for a Race/ Street motor is the (MSD digital 6). It gives you the most bang for the buck and is totally adjustable. with this ignition box you can lock your distributor up and let the box do the initial 20 degrees on its own. It also has a adjustable rev limit ,no pill, and two adjustable rpm activated switches for NOS or any other use such as launch control. All out race use the (MSD digital 7 ). I have use (MSD 6al's) also with no problem. I just found it easier though, when using the ( digital 6) to let the box do the initial instead of me closing up the travel in the distributor. Mopar distributors are good ,but the latest version with the adjustable timing travel is better. On the old distributors you have to weld up the advance slots to achieve the proper travel for your initial 20. The slots are 1/2 inch closing them up to 3/8 gives you approximately 20 degrees of initial. The new distributors are totally adjustable using two torx head screws, Mopar finally figured this out after 35 years. When I first started eliminating the vacuum advance's on the factory distributors. I would hunt a lean burn unit and use the solid magnetic pick-up plate and the vacuum canister cover , this would totally eliminate the vacuum advance for easier access to the hold down bolt. Eliminating the vacuum advance is a must on any motor with a the installation of a signifantly larger Cam shaft . Vacuum is changed with the overlap of larger cams and the advance is no longer achieving its economic purpose .That is all the Vacuum advance is for “Economy“. When ever you hear a car with a big cam and an automatic, with a factory advance they sound like and old tractor pa-plut pa-plut pa-plut. A properly tuned distributor and mild converter there should be little rpm drop when put in gear and the motor should sound like horses in gallop , Chrysler distributors are not good for over 7000. They have bushings and are not balanced and some of them do go into a static misfire. MSD distributor's are a better buy if you are going over that RPM range because they have precision bearings and are balanced. Otherwise stay with a factory type, tuning parts are easier to get and cheaper. All in all the best way to go for the street is a Stock new version adjustable friendly distributor and a MSD 6al control box with a blaster coil. This is only my opinion from what I have used and what is easily available at parts stores. You will notice a difference over the 40 year old ignition system from Chrysler with any newer ignition you chose, But the distributor is the heart , and if that isn't right your car will be a pooch . This is what works for me. Any more info needed I will try to answer. Steve
 

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Timing numbers to start with 14-16 initial 34-36 total. You only need initial to start the motor so that number is not as important as the total. After it is running the quicker it gets to your total the better . That is why a locked distributor with a box that controls the initial is the best. With the digital 6 it lets the motor start a 20 degrees retarded as soon as the motor reaches 800 rpms it goes to your total and stays there. Allot of what you read is that you want your total to come in at 2500, this is so it doesn't effect the timing going up and down at an idle. This allot of times is the cause of a motor dying when dropped into gear, rpm's drop , timing retards , motor stalls, If you hold your foot on the gas the timing doesn't come back as fast and you can keep it running until the timing stabilizes then it may Idle. Or did you ever step on the throttle and have to leave off quickly it stalls do to timing retard. If you can hold your timing at its total after it is started. allot of these symptoms will disappear. This is hard to do with springs and weights but it can be done. Chrysler sells the light springs but allot use them ineffectively. I found that welding the inside of the advance slots and using one light and leave the medium in works better then welding the outside and using both light springs . It comes in the same but doesn't allow the timing to surge at an idle. But you still have 20 degrees retarded at idle even after welding the slots. Something you have to overcome to get total quicker. This is why I went to a digital 6 and believe me you will feel and hear the difference when your in total all the time even at an idle. An easy way to see the difference is to get a dial timing light. set your timing at idle to 35 btdc. See how much more responsive it is, now if only you could stop it from going over 60 Degrees and just hold it a that 35. Try it , it worked for me on many different motor's. Especially those of you who wanted the lopy idle from a bigger cam and then lost your low-end.
 
This is the slot and torx head screw in my Mopar Performance distributor, is this the "good" later distributor you were talking about?? Do you recommend the springs that come with it or should I use others??
 

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I have run the MSD before on my slant 6 without any problems !And I have another sitting on the shelf waiting for me to build this /6 !!Only this time I'll be using a Mallory Distributor !Guess I'll just keep my fingers crossed for no probs with this one !!
 
Mallory here and I really like it. The MSD I used to have failed after only a couple years. What a waste.
 
MSD digital 6, digital 7, is on the top in most choices of racers, no brainer, NACAR and down, Pro-stock and down. It is what most are using. I personally use a Digital 6 on one car the rest have 6al's. MSD digital systems allow a locked advance in the distributor. The system gives you the 20 degree initial retard so a mechanical advance is not needed in the distributor. Also rev limits and 2 steps are able to be dialed in on the control box. I will always use MSD.
 
wow a blast from the past thread again..lol


i never had a problem with the msd 6al. but had a digital 6 crap out on me..

here was my thought process when wanting to replace my bad digital 6.

i wanted something that if i broke down 3 hours from home is some east bumblefuck town that i could find parts for. to me any aftermarket ign is a big question mark in dept.

so i went with a FBO dist. and a stock replacement ecu. so far it runs great, car starts great hot, gets better mileage with the vac advance hooked up and if needed i should be able to get parts in a little town or at the very least a junk yard to get me home. i do always carry an extra coil,ecu and ballast resistor in the trunk.

i think i'm going to be putting a HEI module on it now though. i bought the bracket from http://www.designed2drive.com/. i figure that module is even easier to get then the chrylser parts, cheaper and its supposed to be better but who really knows about that one.. and on top of the other stuff it eliminates the ballast resistor so it has one less possible problem.


this way of thinking has me second guessing my fast efi purchase. thinking i may scrap that idea and just sell that set up before i spend another thousand dollars on the rest of the fuel system. my thoughts are that now i'll be adding an electric fuel pump which is another potential problem, and what happens if the main computer craps out on me? i'm screwed and god knows how long it would take to get a replacement. thinking i need to go with the K.I.S.S (Keep It Simple Stupid) method here... :)
 
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