FBO plate over advancing

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mopowers said:
Yep. I was very polite and just had a couple questions on his products. Needless to say, he missed out on that sale. Maybe he was just having a bad day, but his customer service leaves a lot to be desired.
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It did for me, too.
 
Gonna give this one a shot tomorrow. Should be 6 degrees, according to the charts. Got it all back together with a good new Carter fuel pump and just fired it up quick. Fuel pressure is back up where it should be. Time for bed now but will check the results tomorrow. I'm sure it will be much better. I have a Bluepoint micrometer too, but the dang battery was dead and it was late. This cheap one has been pretty accurate though, so far.

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MobileCustoms said:
Gonna give this one a shot tomorrow. Should be 6 degrees, according to the charts. Got it all back together with a good new Carter fuel pump and just fired it up quick. Fuel pressure is back up where it should be. Time for bed now but will check the results tomorrow. I'm sure it will be much better. I have a Bluepoint micrometer too, but the dang battery was dead and it was late. This cheap one has been pretty accurate though, so far.

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Happy to say, this setup works wonderfully! Not surprisingly. And, I also traced down and fixed the issue that I was having when trying to add in vacuum advance and it would cause the engine to start popping badly as soon as vacuum was applied to the canister. Turns out the reluctor gap was closing up as the advance was pulled in. She sure drives nice now with 22* initial and 34* total. I haven't mapped the curve yet but I used the lightest springs. Ready to cruise it Mopars in the Park this weekend!
 
Agent_Orange said:
So I wasn't very productive in the garage this evening. Had to finish mowing the yard ~1.5 hours, played soccer with my son for an hour or so, dinner.. ect.

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however, I did pull my distributor, and found I was able to move the fbo plate while the t-bar was still attached.

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the center hole on the FBO plate is machined to use that lip, that I'm pointing to on the t-bar, as it's centering device. I can't speak on all t-bars, but this lip is minimal. If the t-bar lifts out of that centering hole, the pins on the weights and the slimmer armature shaft are holding the plate in place. Allowing a slight amount of float in the plate.

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So my assumption is that on my original assembly of the plate, I overlooked the importance of that shoulder on the t-bar. And failed to properly seat the 2 pieces. Reinstalled plate at 16*, warmed up engine, set idle at 18*, verified 18* after a couple bumps of the throttle. Timing appeared to stop advancing at 36* @ 2400 rpm.. by this time it's, after 9pm, kids are going to bed and I decided against reving anymore tonight.

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Below is a picture of those studs on the weights, there is a slight wear, not sure on what the tolerance would be in this situation.

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I know for a fact that the machine work is exact to +-1/2 a thou. I designed it and wrote the CNC program they are cut by a very precise and ISO 9000 company. They cut several hundred at a time and then they are all stacked and electronically measured.
Where are you trying to set the All In RPM?
Are you power timing it to the 34* total or setting it at idle?
If you power time it to 34* it will likely fall back at Idle to exactly 18.
If you still have any issues call Dana at the office she will give you my contact info and we can talk more about it.
Don
 
*****Note to all of you Guys
I'm the guy who designed, developed and setup all the production standards on all the FBO Branded Ignition Parts. If you have an issue with any of these products just call the office and if I need to get involved to solve your issue I'll be happy to work with you.
Retirement is boring and I look forward to it.
 
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