Fenderwell headers for a 440 69 A body Cuda

[fish stink]

I have tried reading about fenderwell headers installation issues because i love the look but i am wondering how to finish the exhaust for street driving in a legal way because most i have seen or read about is for racing only with no pipes or mufflers. Will i have to fab them up in a muffler shop or can i buy a universal pipe system? I own and can weld. I am not brand loyal and money is not a problem. Stainless or coated is my preferred choice of headers. Also of note, i ordered the Tremec elite TKX 5 speed kit if that makes a difference or not. Also ordered the stage 3 US car tool kit to stiffen things up. I received my PST 1.03 torsion bars and tubular upper a arms and all new energy suspension bushings etc so body sag is not a issue. I also wish to install 26x7.5-15 M/T sportsman tires with 15x7x5 rims with a 4 inch back spacing. Too many Chevy's in my life to know better about "A" body can and can not do's.

 

[Dana67Dart]

It's your car do as you like, BUT.... once your cut the inner fender well there is no going back (at least not easily)

 

[fish stink]

It's your car do as you like, BUT.... once your cut the inner fender well there is no going back (at least not easily)

i am not worried about that and i have replaced them with brand new ones so far. I still prefer opening the hood and everyone see those pipes. i even plan on contouring the holes cut into them as best as i can so they look like someone cared about the look and finish. Car was a 318 console auto so rare O.E it is not. It's just my new money pit toy.

 

[Daves69]

I don't know of any kit other than possible side pipes. I drove mine down to the muffler shop and had them get the tubes angled in and back up under, almost stock location....

 

[33IMP]

First, do you have the headers, or do you have a particular brand in mind? It kinda depends on how the collector terminates, as to what pipes you need, and anything you want to do will have to be fabricated.
I have got three sets of "sorta" fenderwell headers. I have the very old hooker adjustables that only have the rear pipe through the wheelwell, and a set of Marco customs for a 440/a-body that have two on one side , and three on the other going through the wheelwell, but both of those have the collector underneath the car in a normal location.
My third set is a full fenderwell header in a tube chassis car, (no fenderwells at all) coated, with the collectors continued down parallel to the floor. From there, a reducer from 3 1/2 to three, a small angle pipe, then a long quiet magnaflow with offset inlet/center out, tucked just inside the rocker panel, then a turnout in front of the rear tires.
What annoys me about fenderwell headers is the sound of each bank of exhaust is separated from the other, and you kind of get that motorboat sound that i dont care for.
I have seen cars with enough ground clearance (gasser style) plumb the pipe back under the car inside the frame rails, and then you can fab an exhaust in a normal fashion.

 

[fish stink]

I don't know of any kit other than possible side pipes. I drove mine down to the muffler shop and had them get the tubes angled in and back up under, almost stock location....
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Thanks for your input. i was hoping to do what you have in the photo. Not sure what brand i will buy but most say T.T.I. is the best along with Doug's headers.

 

[fish stink]

First, do you have the headers, or do you have a particular brand in mind? It kinda depends on how the collector terminates, as to what pipes you need, and anything you want to do will have to be fabricated.
I have got three sets of "sorta" fenderwell headers. I have the very old hooker adjustables that only have the rear pipe through the wheelwell, and a set of Marco customs for a 440/a-body that have two on one side , and three on the other going through the wheelwell, but both of those have the collector underneath the car in a normal location.
My third set is a full fenderwell header in a tube chassis car, (no fenderwells at all) coated, with the collectors continued down parallel to the floor. From there, a reducer from 3 1/2 to three, a small angle pipe, then a long quiet magnaflow with offset inlet/center out, tucked just inside the rocker panel, then a turnout in front of the rear tires.
What annoys me about fenderwell headers is the sound of each bank of exhaust is separated from the other, and you kind of get that motorboat sound that i dont care for.
I have seen cars with enough ground clearance (gasser style) plumb the pipe back under the car inside the frame rails, and then you can fab an exhaust in a normal fashion.

Motor boat sound? if your pipes collectors end up in the normal location maybe a X pipe will fix the sound?

 

[33IMP]

Motor boat sound? if your pipes collectors end up in the normal location maybe a X pipe will fix the sound?

An x-pipe would have to be five feet long , and crosswise. An h pipe might fix the sound, but there is no place where a five foot long h-pipe would be convienient.

 

[fish stink]

An x-pipe would have to be five feet long , and crosswise. An h pipe might fix the sound, but there is no place where a five foot long h-pipe would be convienient.

I am looking at Daves 69 photo's and the pipes are next to the drive shaft and a X would fit as well as any other X would with or without the fenderwell's. looks to me about a foot long will make it work.

 

[33IMP]

I am looking at Daves 69 photo's and the pipes are next to the drive shaft and a X would fit as well as any other X would with or without the fenderwell's. looks to me about a foot long will make it work.

Yes, but he plumbed the pipes back under the center of the car. Mine are still out at the rocker panels, and there isnt ground clearance or room for me to put them inside the frame rails.

 

[Cliff Ramsdell]

@fish stink I built a 440 powered 70 swinger back in 87/88 and at the time fenderwell headers were pretty standard. They were a set of hooker 5205’s

It was a S6 car so cutting it up wasn’t a big deal. Here’s what I learned.

I hacked up the inner fender wells pretty well for clearance. Had to swap the master cylinder so the lines exited on the right side and made a nice heat shield to keep it from getting baked.

Elephant ears for mounting but I used rubber from a bias ply tire wrapped under and on each side of the ear to give it some insulation. Front tires were 195/75/14 on a 5” wheel and the front torsion bars were cranked up pretty high to keep the tires from rubbing on turns.

The exhaust was hard because nobody ever heard of 3” exhaust and bullet mufflers at the time so they were reduced to 2 1/2” and went right down the side and into “cherry bomb” style mufflers and just a turnout in front of the tires.

I looked for pics of the car but much was lost in the “great divorce of 1990”

Best of luck but with the current crop of under chassis headers and finding nice 50 year old mopars to build I wouldn’t go that way again, well maybe.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

[Hemioutlaw]

From the "Have I got a deal for you Dept":

I'm currently in the process of going a different direction with my BB 69', but these Hooker 2" Primary #5215 Fenderwells and 3" Exhaust with Flowmasters are what I was using with a 727 and they worked great and the motor breathed. I'll make you a Killer Deal if you want the complete Bolt Right-In setup.

 

[fish stink]

From the "Have I got a deal for you Dept":

I'm currently in the process of going a different direction with my BB 69', but these Hooker 2" Primary #5215 Fenderwells and 3" Exhaust with Flowmasters are what I was using with a 727 and they worked great and the motor breathed. I'll make you a Killer Deal if you want the complete Bolt Right-In setup.View attachment 1715715086 View attachment 1715715088 View attachment 1715715089 View attachment 1715715091 View attachment 1715715092

Hi there,my name is Henry and i see you have a 69 by the looks of the tail light. Noticed you are in Texas which i have gone through twice and enjoyed it but i live in mid northern b.c. Canada so shipping and border bribing would make this deal a losing one for you or i or i would take because i like this set up anyway. What size tires and rims would you have needed to run with these?

 

[fish stink]

@fish stink I built a 440 powered 70 swinger back in 87/88 and at the time fenderwell headers were pretty standard. They were a set of hooker 5205’s

It was a S6 car so cutting it up wasn’t a big deal. Here’s what I learned.

I hacked up the inner fender wells pretty well for clearance. Had to swap the master cylinder so the lines exited on the right side and made a nice heat shield to keep it from getting baked.

Elephant ears for mounting but I used rubber from a bias ply tire wrapped under and on each side of the ear to give it some insulation. Front tires were 195/75/14 on a 5” wheel and the front torsion bars were cranked up pretty high to keep the tires from rubbing on turns.

The exhaust was hard because nobody ever heard of 3” exhaust and bullet mufflers at the time so they were reduced to 2 1/2” and went right down the side and into “cherry bomb” style mufflers and just a turnout in front of the tires.

I looked for pics of the car but much was lost in the “great divorce of 1990”

Best of luck but with the current crop of under chassis headers and finding nice 50 year old mopars to build I wouldn’t go that way again, well maybe.

Cliff Ramsdell

Hi there Cliff, Sorry to here you were hit by the divorce s;;t storm. Don't hate me but i even shared the minimum shark fee with the first one and the second one was free except for my pen hand's moment. Thanks for your opinion and build story. I am hearing stories of Tri-Y's giving enough room for a skinny 15 incher but still researching before i buy. It is said heat coating them makes a difference in radiating heat or burning rubber the wrong way or simmering my clutch foot. If i must i will run 14"s till i figure out how it sits in real life with my PST 4820 bars i just received. (1 inch+)Got the Willwood manual master in black with flex hoses and ports on both sides to help the install. Waiting for my 6G over tax forced contribution to come in next week and then it will be used to give Silver Sport a call for my quote kit they made for the TKX-600. If some true blood Mopar vampire barks or want's to bite my head off about the pistol grip i will have to poker face and tell him/her it is a early prototype in my SPECIAL order 69.

 

[fish stink]

I don't know of any kit other than possible side pipes. I drove mine down to the muffler shop and had them get the tubes angled in and back up under, almost stock location....
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I like your photos. Thank you very much. My idea/goal is to have that special look when the hood is popped. All coated Tri-y or two in / two out and back under choices of fender well's depends on tire space for me. It's a street car with mini tubs for small exaggerated street meats for a super stockish look like the BO-29's had. Thinking the back under part could be oval for clearance and somewhat better look. I wish to have the stock look/location tail pipes come out the notched tail pan.

 

[Daves69]

I can tell ya' 165SR-15 on 5" will rub the Hookers on some turns especially turning right into an uphill driveway. Even a D70-14 tire will rub them.
As you can see my tubes running back under the car go under 2" X 3" connectors on a slight upward angle. Not a lot of ground clearance where they bend back under. If you can run underneath headers you'll be better off................................ except for workin' on stuff under there!

 

[fish stink]

I can tell ya' 165SR-15 on 5" will rub the Hookers on some turns especially turning right into an uphill driveway. Even a D70-14 tire will rub them.
As you can see my tubes running back under the car go under 2" X 3" connectors on a slight upward angle. Not a lot of ground clearance where they bend back under. If you can run underneath headers you'll be better off................................ except for workin' on stuff under there!

Thanks again for your info. I plan to make the muffler shop work for their money well. I just need that look and prefer to not easy bake oven cook my starter and be able to work on it if needed one day. That is why i chose the hydraulic throw out clutch kit and master cylinder choice also. P.s. never owned a electric start motorbike either. so weird old school thinking is my choice of toys even if i go to work and shopping with them. Day 2 or maybe 3ish is rare in my part of town. Some live on the local track but i have not seen any A bodies on the streets so i guess it is up to me to represent and help others to remember in my town about better looking days. Even know how to wear a hat correctly in my winter only 4x4 99% of the time lunch box hauling truck. Thinking of finding a AMC 4x4 station wagon to replace my common Dodge truck one day just to be different again.

 

[Hemioutlaw]

Hi there,my name is Henry and i see you have a 69 by the looks of the tail light. Noticed you are in Texas which i have gone through twice and enjoyed it but i live in mid northern b.c. Canada so shipping and border bribing would make this deal a losing one for you or i or i would take because i like this set up anyway. What size tires and rims would you have needed to run with these?

Was running 165 x 80R15's on 15 x 3 1/2" Rims and Dave was right they did rub a tad on the drivers side on tight turns, but man did that setup breathe.

I was just fine with the fenderwell's and six cylinder torsion bars as a Street Racing and Hell Raising Kid but was putting 60lbs of air in the front tires to keep that 440 up off the ground. Older and hopefully a bit wiser I'm going to this wheel setup with TTI chassis exit, bigger torsions and a 6-point cage going in now. Should be back on the road in a couple of months..Heights about the same but Notice the difference in wheel width.

 

[fish stink]

Was running 165 x 80R15's on 15 x 3 1/2" Rims and Dave was right they did rub a tad on the drivers side on tight turns, but man did that setup breathe.

I was just fine with the fenderwell's and six cylinder torsion bars as a Street Racing and Hell Raising Kid but was putting 60lbs of air in the front tires to keep that 440 up off the ground. Older and hopefully a bit wiser I'm going to this wheel setup with TTI chassis exit, bigger torsions and a 6-point cage going in now. Should be back on the road in a couple of months..Heights about the same but Notice the difference in wheel width.View attachment 1715715365 View attachment 1715715366 View attachment 1715715368 View attachment 1715715369 View attachment 1715715371

Thanks for your comparison photo's, So skinny 15's will work as long as i do not expect to do a u-turn in the streets. Fine with me. But i also can see what the difference is when one gets the engine hugger's instead of the fender exits. This is why i love this site. Sorry for not being able to go for your deal because it would have been one less thing from the list to buy full price. Such is life!Thanks once again for your time to help me build my new toy. I plan to document and show each step of my build when it starts coming alone enough to be interesting. As a one man team I can only pop one junk to wow look at that car once a year as my hobby/pass time. No wife to ask, beg, lie or bribe to spend my money helps i guess. Thinking of making a trunk lid sticker that says " M.G.T.O.W. FINANCED" just to see who gets it or not.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

From what I've seen & like the front tire clearance best, are the hedman hustlers.
I'm going to run my 2 inch coated hooker super comps, I got them for a killer deal 1/2 off & unused

 

[carguy47]

I seem to have plenty of clearance on mine.

 

[carguy47]

However, as mentioned the brand makes a difference. Especially if it is a street car. Here is an example of the clearance issues at the tire.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

However, as mentioned the brand makes a difference. Especially if it is a street car. Here is an example of the clearance issues at the tire.
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1 7/8 pipes or 2 inch ? What brand ?

 

[GRANCUDA]

About 6 years ago I put a set of NOS Hooker 1 7/8 fenderwell headers in my ‘67 383 Formula S car that I have driven roughly 17-20k miles so far.

Tires - I’m running 155R15 Firestones on 3.5” Slot Mags w/1” bolt on adapters & I have no rubbing issues but I run it fairly high, it’s super close & my tires are only 24.8” tall.

Tubular Upper A-Arms - The mfgs of tubular a-arms optimize the angle of the upper ball joint to be in a natural position to allow increased caster while lowering the car. When you lift the car for header clearance, the upper ball joint is going to be in a bind using aftermarket tubular a-arms.

Brake Master - I bought FineLines stock brake lines for my Formuka S which is disc & bent/formed/routed them back along the firewall & put /safety wired a Starter Heat Wrap around the bottom of the master to eliminate boil over. I’ve had this out commuting to work in 100* days in traffic with no issues.

My opinion, I wouldn’t want it any other way. You can pull the spark plugs for tuning in less than 15 minutes. You can run the plug wires under the headers with no burning issues. You can pull a header without moving the engine. You can pull the transmission or starter without touching the headers. You can drop the exhaust at the track without crawling under the car(if you run down the side).

I am planning to switch from 2.5” exhaust to 3” this spring & have them run to look like a straight run off the header with no bend, just put the mounting flange at an angle. We’ll see how it works out.

Here’s some pics...

 

[MOPARMAGA]

About 6 years ago I put a set of NOS Hooker 1 7/8 fenderwell headers in my ‘67 383 Formula S car that I have driven roughly 17-20k miles so far.

Tires - I’m running 155R15 Firestones on 3.5” Slot Mags w/1” bolt on adapters & I have no rubbing issues but I run it fairly high, it’s super close & my tires are only 24.8” tall.

Tubular Upper A-Arms - The mfgs of tubular a-arms optimize the angle of the upper ball joint to be in a natural position to allow increased caster while lowering the car. When you lift the car for header clearance, the upper ball joint is going to be in a bind using aftermarket tubular a-arms.

My opinion, I wouldn’t want it any other way. You can pull the spark plugs for tuning in less than 15 minutes. You can run the plug wires under the headers with no burning issues. You can pull a header without moving the engine. You can pull the transmission or starter without touching the headers. You can drop the exhaust at the track without crawling under the car(if you run down the side).

Here’s some pics...

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I was thinking the same thing with the 1 inch spacer, does it pass tech inspection or do they look for that ?