fenderwell headers

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I am running them in my Dart. I like them but when I do it again I would spend the extra for the ceramic coating.
 
defo with the coating ,i only got about 4 years out of mine and they are real thin and cracking
 
try the schumaker headers at engine-swaps.com don't have to cut the inner fenders to make them fit.
 
I had to return the first set I got from Summit. The flanges were warped. They took them back, no problem. The second set looked like an updated design. Flanges still weren't perfect, but I got them to work.
 
I didn't buy my hooker super comp fenderwell headers from jegs but I've had this set for more than 10 years now with no problems. Got them ceramic coated 4 years ago, no problems so far. I have friends who have had their stuff done for even longer with no issues. Guess it depends who do's it. Hard to beat the wow factor of them.
 

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Tubular Automotive in MA
I put these headers in 30 years ago, im not sure if there still around
 

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plummkz said:
anybody have a picture of how much to cut for fenderwell headers
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I am not 100 percent sure but i think these are for the hooker fender well headers. Mopar65:cheers:
 

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i have a setter of these. I have a 68 barracuda with rb and victor heads.... i would have had to really DENT my inner fenders to get them to clear. i guess the raised exhaust port really makes a world of difference when coming 2 header fitment
 
I'll tell ya what, 30 years two cars later no leaks, couple dents on the bottoms and they work well on the early A's and of course I run straight pipes all the way back and into super-trapps. Sound is awesome and nothing like'm. The fenderwells were the only headers available at that time..
 
I don't know. Once you hack your car up, it's hacked up. I've never been a proponent of fenderwell headers. You have to cut almost in the corner where the fenderwell meets the firewall. That's a pretty strong structural area that is weakened when you cut it out. I know....people have used um for decades, blah blah blah. But that's my opinion and I stick by it.
 
The pro parts headers dont require a big chunk taken out of the inner fender. I believe its 1 tube on pass and 2 on the driver. and allow for better steering and easier fit.
 
This isn't the best pic but you can see that there has to be a pretty good size hole cut in the inner fenders for the Hookers.
 

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StrokerScamp said:
I don't know. Once you hack your car up, it's hacked up. I've never been a proponent of fenderwell headers. You have to cut almost in the corner where the fenderwell meets the firewall. That's a pretty strong structural area that is weakened when you cut it out. I know....people have used um for decades, blah blah blah. But that's my opinion and I stick by it.
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I agree! Weakens the front end up some,so best to get some J bars from Badart here along with those headers. I also recommend the tubular rad support,also by badart. These parts should all but eliminate the extra floppyness you'll induce when hacking big holes in the inner fenders.

You can alternatively just remove the inners alltogether when you have some jbars for reinforcement. I like it better this way and am doing it this way,as I feel it's a cleaner look. Plus it lightens the front end some,lol...

One more thing to reinforce would be adding a torque box to the under cowl area. There's a post here about how to make your own torque box reinforcement plates.
 
If you are going to use an RB engine I would vote for the Pro Parts headers.

Mike
 
Rob, But you'll reconfigure your Mopar's complete suspension just to follow the crowd, NICE :)
 
HotLines said:
Rob, But you'll reconfigure your Mopar's complete suspension just to follow the crowd, NICE :)
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I don't see how you figure all that? Update. Not reconfigure. Bigger bolt pattern and disk brakes. All Mopar stuff. Followin what crowd? The crowd that wants to be able to STOP?
 
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