FiTech EFI system

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Just as an FYI for you guys that are really pushing the limits of your 1200PA, theres a guy on the Facebook group offering decapped and flow tested 120 lb drop-in injectors. I think the factory Fitech's are 80lb.
 
Accelerator cable and bracket question. 1971 Demon 340 with an Edelbrock RPM Airgap, Fitech and 6 spd so no need for kickdown. What bracket/cable is recommended. My car came with nothing beside a pedal. Pics would be extra appreciated!!
 
Lil Demon said:
Accelerator cable and bracket question. 1971 Demon 340 with an Edelbrock RPM Airgap, Fitech and 6 spd so no need for kickdown. What bracket/cable is recommended. My car came with nothing beside a pedal. Pics would be extra appreciated!!
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I used the standard bracket and cable on my 67 340 Barracuda with the Fitech and air gap. They should be available from the resto places.
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
I used the standard bracket and cable on my 67 340 Barracuda with the Fitech and air gap. They should be available from the resto places.
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Problem with the standard bracket on a higher intake is it can cause the throttle cable to wear rapidly as it wears on one side of the barrel. The bracket above allows you to adjust the angle
 
Lokar bracket made for FiTech TCB-40FIT.
Expensive, but puts the cable exactly where it needs to be, and cleans up the intake.

Cable is the black version of the TC-1000HT, maybe XTC.

I modified the end of the cable.
Still need to pull the pedal to bend it for full throttle, close, but not quite.

Different setup, as I needed something higher.

Could probably make the TCB-40FIT.

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Thanks for all the responses! I’ll now spend my weekend decided. Hopefully I get to drive my build soon!
 
I'm used to cold starts with carbs, choke, higher idle, etc.

Cold start with FiTech, turn key on, wait for pump to prime and small shot of fuel from throttle bodies, starts right up.

Idles a bit under my set idle speed, for 30 seconds, then right to 850 rpm.

I let it warm up, but it doesn't even seem to need it.

Doesn't appear to be an issue, but why no cold start high idle?
 
I think because for carburetors the only way to enrich the mixture without it falling on it's face was with a high idle. Whereas the EFI can manage enriching the mixture yet maintaining a relatively low idle. Which in my opinion may be better on a cold start where an engine that may not be completely lubricated gets pushed up to high rpm causing premature wear.
 
Sounds like a darn good explanation, then I read it again and confused myself.

I'll be sure to check the AFR on the next cold start.

Why does it need a rich mixture on a cold start?
 
Not 100% sure but I believe fuel struggles to vaporize when cold so it needs more fuel? that in itself sounds contradicting but something like that
 
It should have a higher idle speed when cold, the gradually come down to normal idle as it warms up. You might need to look at you IAC motor settings
 
A little research confirms, cold fuel and evaporation mainly, cold air, cold engine.

IAC is set correctly.
There is also a Crank IAC, which I believe I have close to the max, gradually adjusted over time. The dual quad tunnel ram needed it higher.

IAC is high at start-up, iirc.

I'm guessing here, but I don't see a reason for a high idle as long as the AFR is managed based on the temp.
 
matthon said:
I'm guessing here, but I don't see a reason for a high idle as long as the AFR is managed based on the temp.
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I believe the OEs do it for getting the engine and catalyst up to proper temp quicker and able to go into closed loop. My FITech idles up slightly maybe 100-200 over target when first started. Once in gear it maintains the AFRs and idles normally.
 
My newer truck is efi, the wife's car too, no fast idle.
Not sure if that's apples and oranges or apples and apples.

I'm not experiencing any negative effects, just curious. It has seemed normal for so long, based on my truck and any other efi vehicle.
I started another car with a carb the other day and it just made me wonder.
 
I have the dual quad, in tank pump, corvette filter/regulator.
My psi gauge is on the forward throttle body.
After running the car a while trying to diagnose a completely different issue, I topped off the tank to keep it above 1/4.

Last night my in tank pump decided to go from a regulated 58psi, holding there after priming, to 100psi when primed, making a horrible screeching sound, then back to 0, then banging off 95 when running.

The screeching sound was alarming.

Disconnected filter out line, turned key to run, no screeching.

Disconnected throttle bodies, blew compressed air back thru lines. Hooked back up, no change.

Unhooked forward throttle body, key to run, no screeching.
Only forward throttle body hooked up, screeching, psi crazy.

Moved psi gauge to rear tb, hooked everything up, back to normal.

Moved psi gauge back to front, still normal.

I think some debris was stuck in the front tb, and drained out when moving the gauge.
The lines come in the front, and when the key is off the fuel drains back out, but on the other side the fuel stays, and it drained out both when moving the gauge.

I hope it's resolved, but what would cause the psi to increase on the forward tb, and in turn make the pump scream?
 
wireweld said:
Here are some pics. Not much to the install. Tell me what you want to see and I will take a pic. Also, any questions ask away. I will try and answer.
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Do you have a MSD 6A unit connected to your FiTech? Do you have a command center? Also how did you wire it up? (New to this!)
 
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