FiTech EFI system

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matthon said:
Did you make that throttle linkage, or buy it?
Does it use the stock throttle cable?
I have the same on a tunnel ram, the current setup is hurting, and l'm having difficulty finding inline linkage that is good quality.
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A little off topic and I can’t speak for Jack but I used a common inline linkage setup and fabbed some small brackets to get the correct geometry in order to use a Mopar throttle cable and Bouchillon kickdown setup. It’s changed a little since this pic was taken but the idea is same. Cable clamps and attaches at bottom.

Like kits here: Linkage Kits

Linkage01.jpg
 
matthon said:
Did you make that throttle linkage, or buy it?
Does it use the stock throttle cable?
I have the same on a tunnel ram, the current setup is hurting, and l'm having difficulty finding inline linkage that is good quality.
Click to expand...

I converted a sideways setup to run inline. Everything worked except I had to get the local machine shop to make up the two longest rods. Seams to work good and only cost me $10 at the machine shop.

Jack
 
When setting the IAC on the dual quad, does the IAC Steps procedure apply to both driver's side throttle adjustment screws? Meaning adjust both throttle bodies the same amount, at the same time.
That is how I did it, just want to be sure there is an IAC in both throttle bodies.
 
I’m helping a friend to make his engine run with a fitech system. Bought an msd pro billet dist including an adjustable rotor. No go, had it setup per instruction.
Not a sign to run.
Replaced the dist to a mopar orange box and not have the ignition controlled by fitech.
From the orange box there’s a wire to the negative post on the coil and likewise the blue wire from the throotlebody. Is this accurate?
Many thanks in advance.
 
swedefish said:
I’m helping a friend to make his engine run with a fitech system. Bought an msd pro billet dist including an adjustable rotor. No go, had it setup per instruction.
Not a sign to run.
Replaced the dist to a mopar orange box and not have the ignition controlled by fitech.
From the orange box there’s a wire to the negative post on the coil and likewise the blue wire from the throotlebody. Is this accurate?
Many thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Lets clarify. What Fitech system do you have and do you have the wiring diagram/connections for it? And it sounds like you started out wanting the fitech to control timing and now going to go back to fuel only?
 
This is a crate engine, it’s said that they had it running on a dyno.
Set it up for the fitech to controll the ignition, followed the instructions in the manual before start up. Just wont ignite.
So we decided to take a step back and install a mopar orange box and dist.
I can’t find any diagram that show how the orange box is supposed to be wired with a fitech efi. The blue wire in the fitech is wired to the coil when fuel only and I also have a wire from the orange box to the coil.
It’s a fitech 600hp system with the FCC.
But I can’t say for sure that they had it run on the dyno, since I wasn’t present
at the dyno test. Next step is to have it run with a carb just to make sure.
 
subcom said:
I used the Ebay stuff. I think this one. Metallic Heat Shield Sleeve Insulated Wire Hose Cover Wrap Loom Tube 3/4" 6 Ft | eBay

I covered as much as possible. The entire length of the O2 lead cable, and the ignition cable going to my distributor I wrapped with that HVAC tape and then wrapped with wire loom. Not sure what ultimately cured the error code ills but after I wrapped those two items the fault codes went away.
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I have a ready to run MSD.
Are you wrapping the wires going from the coil to the distributor?
And wrapping the blue wire from the FiTech unit to the coil negative as well?
Any other wires?
Are you using both the HVAC tape and the velcor wrap, then grounding it?
 
matthon said:
I have a ready to run MSD.
Are you wrapping the wires going from the coil to the distributor?
And wrapping the blue wire from the FiTech unit to the coil negative as well?
Any other wires?
Are you using both the HVAC tape and the velcor wrap, then grounding it?
Click to expand...
I wrapped the wires from the ECU to distributor with HVAC tape and the Velcro insulator, not grounded. I also wrapped the entire length of the O2 sensor lead with the Velcro stuff. That's it.
 
Having some issues with fitech go street.
The other day father was driving it. Started dropping cylinders. Got it home. Only the two injectors on the passenger side are firing. Absolutely nothing coming out of the two injectors on the drivers side.
Anyone else ever had this issue?
Thinking about swapping right and left injectors to see if injector problem or if they are not getting signals to fire.
 
As far as I know the Mopar factory ignition doesn't work with the FiTech. The FiTech system will control the ignition without using any ignition box. You just run the blue wire to the negative side of the coil.
swedefish said:
I’m helping a friend to make his engine run with a fitech system. Bought an msd pro billet dist including an adjustable rotor. No go, had it setup per instruction.
Not a sign to run.
Replaced the dist to a mopar orange box and not have the ignition controlled by fitech.
From the orange box there’s a wire to the negative post on the coil and likewise the blue wire from the throotlebody. Is this accurate?
Many thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 
mike heasley said:
Having some issues with fitech go street.
The other day father was driving it. Started dropping cylinders. Got it home. Only the two injectors on the passenger side are firing. Absolutely nothing coming out of the two injectors on the drivers side.
Anyone else ever had this issue?
Thinking about swapping right and left injectors to see if injector problem or if they are not getting signals to fire.
Click to expand...

Swapped injectors from right to left. So now the two that did work, don't work. And the two that didn't work, now work.
So obviously its an injector problem.
New to the efi, anything I should be looking for to keep this from happening again?
Fuel system is an inline pump with a pre filter before pump, pump then a 10micron. Filter right before the efi system.

Called fitech waiting to talk to a person for 26 min. Then they hung up on me. Called back waited 35min. Had to hang up, time to leave for work.
 
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Looking at a fitech unit. What distributor are people running if they let the fitech unit control the distributor?
 
lee g said:
Looking at a fitech unit. What distributor are people running if they let the fitech unit control the distributor?
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I am running the MSD. Do NOT get the MSD clone made by TSP, they don't fit properly into the slot of the oil pump gear (sloppy and loose) and it will cause your timing to be all over the place. If you gave any questions just ask, happy to help.
 
By the way, in the initial setup there are settings for "Tach or VR Coil". If you are using the blue wire from the Fitech to the negative side of the coil then you MUST set it to tach. If you are controlling the timing using the MSD distributor then you connect the 2 wire connector from the Fitech to the matching 2 wire connector from the distributor. Use the small black wire to trigger the MSD. This should connect to the points trigger input to the MSD (typically a small white wire). Again if you don't select the correct trigger (Tach or VR Coil) shesa nota going toa strarta.LOL
 
Anybody have any issues with the 6 pin connector?
Running the 600HP with the FCC for two years now, sorted out most if not all of the initial programming issues. About 3 weeks ago the car died while cruising down the street. Pulled over, restarted and it fired up. Drove it home, restarted in the garage, took it out, and it died again about 4 blocks from the house. Restarted, drove home. However, after repeated Run-Start attempts, it finally gave up the ghost and the injectors stopped priming; handheld wouldn't light up.
Using a VM, traced the break to the white Keyed wire on the throttle body side of the connector. Back probing the connector with a paperclip and using a jumper wire applied 12v to the connector and the system lit up. I've never worked with weatherpack connectors. After researching, looks like I need a special terminal tool to push back the prongs to release the terminal, then a special crimper to replace the terminal.
Looks pretty straightforward. Have any members had to repair the connector yet?
 
RBConvert said:
Anybody have any issues with the 6 pin connector?
Running the 600HP with the FCC for two years now, sorted out most if not all of the initial programming issues. About 3 weeks ago the car died while cruising down the street. Pulled over, restarted and it fired up. Drove it home, restarted in the garage, took it out, and it died again about 4 blocks from the house. Restarted, drove home. However, after repeated Run-Start attempts, it finally gave up the ghost and the injectors stopped priming; handheld wouldn't light up.
Using a VM, traced the break to the white Keyed wire on the throttle body side of the connector. Back probing the connector with a paperclip and using a jumper wire applied 12v to the connector and the system lit up. I've never worked with weatherpack connectors. After researching, looks like I need a special terminal tool to push back the prongs to release the terminal, then a special crimper to replace the terminal.
Looks pretty straightforward. Have any members had to repair the connector yet?
Click to expand...

Yes, our Cuda did the same as yours. Run, then stop, maybe start and run a bit and then nothing. Six pin connector fried. This was a 2016 throttle body and FCC. The FCC connector had fried 1 1/2 years ago. I jumped the orange FCC wire around the connector and it worked unit a couple of months ago when the red power wire fried. FiTech stepped up and replaced the ECU, and wiring with the newer harness (with separate power and FCC wire harness with 14 gauge wiring) FREE OF CHARGE! This unit has been out of warranty for over a year! Bryce in FiTech's tech department really helped out. I still have concerns about the FCC v1 and its reliability. In the process of installing the updated throttle body and rewiring a couple of things due to the new harness. Debating on whether I should run the new 14 gauge FCC orange wire directly to the pump as before or run it through a relay.

IMG_0015.jpg


IMG_0015.jpg
 
I would say go with a relay. I always have and believe it takes the load off the pcm and provides a cleaner, constant power to the fuel pump and helps it live longer.
Just sayin...
 
Revhendo said:
I would say go with a relay. I always have and believe it takes the load off the pcm and provides a cleaner, constant power to the fuel pump and helps it live longer.
Just sayin...
Click to expand...
Revhendo said:
I would say go with a relay. I always have and believe it takes the load off the pcm and provides a cleaner, constant power to the fuel pump and helps it live longer.
Just sayin...
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Yeah, I agree. Just need to double check the PWM setting in the ECU to make sure it's at 100 in order for the the relay to work.
 
59CumminsRam said:
Yes, our Cuda did the same as yours. Run, then stop, maybe start and run a bit and then nothing. Six pin connector fried. This was a 2016 throttle body and FCC. The FCC connector had fried 1 1/2 years ago. I jumped the orange FCC wire around the connector and it worked unit a couple of months ago when the red power wire fried. FiTech stepped up and replaced the ECU, and wiring with the newer harness (with separate power and FCC wire harness with 14 gauge wiring) FREE OF CHARGE! This unit has been out of warranty for over a year! Bryce in FiTech's tech department really helped out. I still have concerns about the FCC v1 and its reliability. In the process of installing the updated throttle body and rewiring a couple of things due to the new harness. Debating on whether I should run the new 14 gauge FCC orange wire directly to the pump as before or run it through a relay.

View attachment 1715267931

View attachment 1715267933
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If you run it through a standard relay remember to set the PWM for the pump to 100. Otherwise you’ll need a solid state relay that is compatible with pwm.
 
Update - FiTech issued an RMA and I sent the entire TB back. Within one week they sent back a refurbed current version TB with the 4 + 2 connector. Incompatible with the V1 6 pin, but one email was all it took to get an undated harness. I bought the v1 in Sept 2015 and the replacement unit was No Charge. So while the v1 reliability is questionable, FiTech's customer service gets an A.
Took an afternoon to rewire the 4+2 connector, and the engine fired right up. During the downtime I purchased a new TB bracket from Lokar - specific to FiTech. The original Lokar bracket designed for Holley linkages flexed under WOT; the new one is stouter and has two connecting points. With the new TB and bracket, it feels like the engine picked up 50 hp. Runs the best it has in the 3 years since completing the resto.
Here's the p/n for the Lokar bracket. You'll notice the new spring on the bottom has a more compact range than the original.

IMG_4814.JPG


IMG_4816.JPG


IMG_4813.JPG
 
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RBConvert said:
Update - FiTech issued an RMA and I sent the entire TB back. Within one week they sent back a refurbed current version TB with the 4 + 2 connector. Incompatible with the V1 6 pin, but one email was all it took to get an undated harness. I bought the v1 in Sept 2015 and the replacement unit was No Charge. So while the v1 reliability is questionable, FiTech's customer service gets an A.
Took an afternoon to rewire the 4+2 connector, and the engine fired right up. During the downtime I purchased a new TB bracket from Lokar - specific to FiTech. The original Lokar bracket designed for Holley linkages flexed under WOT; the new one is stouter and has two connecting points. With the new TB and bracket, it feels like the engine picked up 50 hp. Runs the best it has in the 3 years since completing the resto.
Here's the p/n for the Lokar bracket. You'll notice the new spring on the bottom has a more compact range than the original.

View attachment 1715268049

View attachment 1715268051

View attachment 1715268050
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Now Lokar need to make one of those brackets for the sniper !
 
Sorry to keep posting E-body stuff on an A-Body forum but this is a great FiTech thread. Got the updated throttle body and wiring (rewiring) wrapped up. It's working better than it ever has! I even got the IAC settings correct for a change. I did install a relay for the FCC and it seems to be working well. Not sure if you can post videos on here but you can see some videos and some photos on my Instagram feed.

Bryan Jordan (@bryan78jordan) • Instagram photos and videos
 
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